[NSRCA-discussion] YS newbie questions

Ed Alt ed_alt at hotmail.com
Sat Oct 25 09:24:42 AKDT 2008


Matt:
Central has them for $689.  This is the glow version, you can't get the CDI version yet.  I ordered mine from Linda's.  A few bucks more when the tax is added in, but she was cheaper than Central on the basic price.  I want it now so I can get the mount, firewall etc all set up.  I'll do a CDI conversion later when the kit becomes available.

Ed
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: rcmaster199 at aol.com 
  To: nsrca-discussion at lists.nsrca.org ; adriancwong at earthlink.net 
  Sent: Saturday, October 25, 2008 12:14 PM
  Subject: Re: [NSRCA-discussion] YS newbie questions


  Are you guys seeing that it really needs that much oil? The ignition timing is in a can on this engine and you don't need to use mixture as your timing mechanism. Is the con-rod still bushed or has YS switched to needle bearings?

  I suppose the amount of oil in heli fuel won't really hurt anything but why would one not use, say, 12% oil? It should allow better gas mileage but not at the expense of bushings breaking down/seezing

  Eddie were you quoted a price? I'm thinking about this one too

  MattK




  -----Original Message-----
  From: Ed Alt <ed_alt at hotmail.com>
  To: adriancwong at earthlink.net; General pattern discussion <nsrca-discussion at lists.nsrca.org>
  Sent: Sat, 25 Oct 2008 11:26 am
  Subject: Re: [NSRCA-discussion] YS newbie questions


  Thanks to all who responded, very helpful. 
   
  Ed 
  ----- Original Message ----- From: <adriancwong at earthlink.net> 
  To: "General pattern discussion" <nsrca-discussion at lists.nsrca.org> 
  Sent: Saturday, October 25, 2008 2:09 AM 
  Subject: Re: [NSRCA-discussion] YS newbie questions 
   
  > Ed, 
  > 
  >>Exhaust: I guess you buy the Hatori 821 and call it a day? Any special >>mounting tips? 
  > 
  > Most likely you will be couple the 821 pipe with either the 822 or 823 > header - different rise height. Suggest using a Nishioka quick release > pipe mount instead of the pipe mount that came with the pipe. The Nishioka > came in three different heights - 20, 29 and 37 mm rise. Again, it all > depends on which header that you're using. 
  > 
  > 
  >>Engine mount: I've heard a little bit about an isolation mount that YS >>makes, but it's pricey. What, if anything does this buy you as compared >>to a Hyde / Budd mount solution? 
  > 
  > Budd mount is good, but I've found it a bit on the noisy side. Also, I > wish Jerry will switch from 4-40 to 6-32 on the mounting bolts. So far, > I've found the YS mount the best - between idling and full throttle. Less > noise and less vibration. 
  > 
  > 
  >>Fuel: What's the real deal with the oil? Not the percentage, because I >>know that's being experimented with, but what oil does this engine require >>in the fuel? 
  > 
  > Recommend using either Coolpower 30% heli, or 30% with low smoke - all > synthetic, don't use anything with caster oil. I preferred the regular 30% > heli than the low smoke. 
  > 
  >> 
  >>Maintenance: I'ev heard that prior to the first run, you need to take the >>head cover off and oil up the lifters. True? What kind of oil, how much >>etc? What about after run? None needed? What other maintenance tips are >>there to keep this beast going? 
  > 
  > YS shipped all engines with no gap on the valves. However, I always open > it slightly before the first start. Also, take off the valve cover and wet > sand the contact surface on a smooth surface with very fine sand paper. By > doing that, you will eliminate any uneven high spot on the valve cover, > causing the engine to surge due to air leaks. 
  > 
  > Open up the cam cover and drop a few drops of oil inside to lube the the > cam. 
  > 
  > Use either YS or OS F plug 
  > 
  > No after run oil is necessary. After you finish flying, no need to run out > the excess fuel, unless you're planning not to fly for over a year. 
  > 
  > 
  >>Break In: What prop? Lower the nitro? Follow the instructions or is >>there a better way? 
  > 
  > Just use a slightly smaller diameter prop for break-in, and you can use > the same nitro, just run it rich for the first 4 - 5 tanks and gradually > lean it. I used a 16.5x13w for break-in, fly it for 5 - 6 flights on > 17x12w. Currently, I'm experimenting between 17.7x11.7 and 18x11 WPN > re-pitched to 18x12. RPM between 7,600 to 7,800 
  > 
  > 
  > 
  > On first start of the day, do not use a starter to prime the engine - > since when you turn the prop, pump will feed fuel into engine. Just turn > over the prop 4 - 5 times, then, rock the spinner cone back and forth 4 - > 5 times to activate the pump, it's ready to start. You do not need to > prime the engine again after the first flight. 
  > 
  > Preferably, use a time delay glow driver - to prevent knocking/ kick back. > Do not take the starter away as soon as the engine stated, let it spin for > an additional 2 - 3 seconds to ensure the engine is indeed started to > prevent abrupt stop. 
  > 
  > The 170 is pretty much bullet proof, the last one I sent back for service > have had over 500 flights. It only needed front and rear bearing and > piston ring. 
  > 
  > If you have other question, feel free to contact me. 
  > 
  > Adrian 
  > 
  > 
  > 
  > 
  > _______________________________________________ 
  > NSRCA-discussion mailing list 
  > NSRCA-discussion at lists.nsrca.org 
  > http://lists.nsrca.org/mailman/listinfo/nsrca-discussion 
  >  
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