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<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Matt:</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Central has them for $689. This is the glow
version, you can't get the CDI version yet. I ordered mine from
Linda's. A few bucks more when the tax is added in, but she was cheaper
than Central on the basic price. I want it now so I can get the mount,
firewall etc all set up. I'll do a CDI conversion later when the kit
becomes available.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Ed</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE
style="PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV
style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: black"><B>From:</B>
<A title=rcmaster199@aol.com
href="mailto:rcmaster199@aol.com">rcmaster199@aol.com</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A
title=nsrca-discussion@lists.nsrca.org
href="mailto:nsrca-discussion@lists.nsrca.org">nsrca-discussion@lists.nsrca.org</A>
; <A title=adriancwong@earthlink.net
href="mailto:adriancwong@earthlink.net">adriancwong@earthlink.net</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Saturday, October 25, 2008 12:14
PM</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Re: [NSRCA-discussion] YS newbie
questions</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV>Are you guys seeing that it really needs that much oil? The ignition
timing is in a can on this engine and you don't need to use mixture as your
timing mechanism. Is the con-rod still bushed or has YS switched to needle
bearings?</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>I suppose the amount of oil in heli fuel won't really hurt anything but
why would one not use, say, 12% oil?<SPAN contentEditable=false
style="DISPLAY: inline-block"></SPAN> It should allow better gas mileage
but not at the expense of bushings breaking down/seezing</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Eddie were you quoted a price? I'm thinking about this one too</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>MattK</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>-----Original Message-----<BR>From: Ed Alt
<ed_alt@hotmail.com><BR>To: adriancwong@earthlink.net; General pattern
discussion <nsrca-discussion@lists.nsrca.org><BR>Sent: Sat, 25 Oct 2008
11:26 am<BR>Subject: Re: [NSRCA-discussion] YS newbie questions<BR><BR>
<DIV id=AOLMsgPart_0_13f9e423-9e37-45d8-b23b-8f957188e716
style="FONT-SIZE: 12px; MARGIN: 0px; COLOR: #000; FONT-FAMILY: Tahoma, Verdana, Arial, Sans-Serif; BACKGROUND-COLOR: #fff">Thanks
to all who responded, very helpful. <BR> <BR>Ed <BR>-----
Original Message ----- From: <<A
href="mailto:adriancwong@earthlink.net">adriancwong@earthlink.net</A>> <BR>To:
"General pattern discussion" <<A
href="mailto:nsrca-discussion@lists.nsrca.org">nsrca-discussion@lists.nsrca.org</A>> <BR>Sent:
Saturday, October 25, 2008 2:09 AM <BR>Subject: Re: [NSRCA-discussion] YS
newbie questions <BR> <BR>>
Ed, <BR>> <BR>>>Exhaust: I guess you buy the Hatori 821 and
call it a day? Any special >>mounting tips? <BR>> <BR>>
Most likely you will be couple the 821 pipe with either the 822 or 823 >
header - different rise height. Suggest using a Nishioka quick release >
pipe mount instead of the pipe mount that came with the pipe. The Nishioka
> came in three different heights - 20, 29 and 37 mm rise. Again, it all
> depends on which header that you're
using. <BR>> <BR>> <BR>>>Engine mount: I've heard a
little bit about an isolation mount that YS >>makes, but it's pricey.
What, if anything does this buy you as compared >>to a Hyde / Budd mount
solution? <BR>> <BR>> Budd mount is good, but I've found it a
bit on the noisy side. Also, I > wish Jerry will switch from 4-40 to 6-32
on the mounting bolts. So far, > I've found the YS mount the best - between
idling and full throttle. Less > noise and less
vibration. <BR>> <BR>> <BR>>>Fuel: What's the real
deal with the oil? Not the percentage, because I >>know that's being
experimented with, but what oil does this engine require >>in the
fuel? <BR>> <BR>> Recommend using either Coolpower 30% heli,
or 30% with low smoke - all > synthetic, don't use anything with caster
oil. I preferred the regular 30% > heli than the low
smoke. <BR>> <BR>>> <BR>>>Maintenance: I'ev
heard that prior to the first run, you need to take the >>head cover off
and oil up the lifters. True? What kind of oil, how much >>etc? What
about after run? None needed? What other maintenance tips are >>there to
keep this beast going? <BR>> <BR>> YS shipped all engines with
no gap on the valves. However, I always open > it slightly before the first
start. Also, take off the valve cover and wet > sand the contact surface on
a smooth surface with very fine sand paper. By > doing that, you will
eliminate any uneven high spot on the valve cover, > causing the engine to
surge due to air leaks. <BR>> <BR>> Open up the cam cover and
drop a few drops of oil inside to lube the the >
cam. <BR>> <BR>> Use either YS or OS F
plug <BR>> <BR>> No after run oil is necessary. After you
finish flying, no need to run out > the excess fuel, unless you're planning
not to fly for over a year. <BR>> <BR>> <BR>>>Break
In: What prop? Lower the nitro? Follow the instructions or is >>there a
better way? <BR>> <BR>> Just use a slightly smaller diameter
prop for break-in, and you can use > the same nitro, just run it rich for
the first 4 - 5 tanks and gradually > lean it. I used a 16.5x13w for
break-in, fly it for 5 - 6 flights on > 17x12w. Currently, I'm
experimenting between 17.7x11.7 and 18x11 WPN > re-pitched to 18x12. RPM
between 7,600 to 7,800 <BR>> <BR>> <BR>> <BR>>
On first start of the day, do not use a starter to prime the engine - >
since when you turn the prop, pump will feed fuel into engine. Just turn >
over the prop 4 - 5 times, then, rock the spinner cone back and forth 4 - >
5 times to activate the pump, it's ready to start. You do not need to >
prime the engine again after the first flight. <BR>> <BR>>
Preferably, use a time delay glow driver - to prevent knocking/ kick back.
> Do not take the starter away as soon as the engine stated, let it spin
for > an additional 2 - 3 seconds to ensure the engine is indeed started to
> prevent abrupt stop. <BR>> <BR>> The 170 is pretty much
bullet proof, the last one I sent back for service > have had over 500
flights. It only needed front and rear bearing and > piston
ring. <BR>> <BR>> If you have other question, feel free to
contact me. <BR>> <BR>>
Adrian <BR>> <BR>> <BR>> <BR>> <BR>>
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