[NSRCA-discussion] YS newbie questions

[rcmaster199 at aol.com]

Are you guys seeing that it really needs that much oil? The ignition timing is in a can on this engine and you don't need to use mixture as your timing mechanism. Is the con-rod still bushed or has YS switched to needle bearings?


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I suppose the amount of oil in heli fuel won't really hurt anything but why would one not use, say, 12% oil??It should allow better gas mileage but not at the expense of bushings breaking down/seezing


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Eddie were you quoted a price? I'm thinking about this one too


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MattK










-----Original Message-----

From: Ed Alt <ed_alt at hotmail.com>

To: adriancwong at earthlink.net; General pattern discussion <nsrca-discussion at lists.nsrca.org>

Sent: Sat, 25 Oct 2008 11:26 am

Subject: Re: [NSRCA-discussion] YS newbie questions





Thanks to all who responded, very helpful.?

?

Ed?

----- Original Message ----- From: <adriancwong at earthlink.net>?

To: "General pattern discussion" <nsrca-discussion at lists.nsrca.org>?

Sent: Saturday, October 25, 2008 2:09 AM?

Subject: Re: [NSRCA-discussion] YS newbie questions?

?

> Ed,?

>?

>>Exhaust: I guess you buy the Hatori 821 and call it a day? Any special >>mounting tips??

>?

> Most likely you will be couple the 821 pipe with either the 822 or 823 > header - different rise height. Suggest using a Nishioka quick release > pipe mount instead of the pipe mount that came with the pipe. The Nishioka > came in three different heights - 20, 29 and 37 mm rise. Again, it all > depends on which header that you're using.?

>?

>?

>>Engine mount: I've heard a little bit about an isolation mount that YS >>makes, but it's pricey. What, if anything does this buy you as compared >>to a Hyde / Budd mount solution??

>?

> Budd mount is good, but I've found it a bit on the noisy side. Also, I > wish Jerry will switch from 4-40 to 6-32 on the mounting bolts. So far, > I've found the YS mount the best - between idling and full throttle. Less > noise and less vibration.?

>?

>?

>>Fuel: What's the real deal with the oil? Not the percentage, because I >>know that's being experimented with, but what oil does this engine require >>in the fuel??

>?

> Recommend using either Coolpower 30% heli, or 30% with low smoke - all > synthetic, don't use anything with caster oil. I preferred the regular 30% > heli than the low smoke.?

>?

>>?

>>Maintenance: I'ev heard that prior to the first run, you need to take the >>head cover off and oil up the lifters. True? What kind of oil, how much >>etc? What about after run? None needed? What other maintenance tips are >>there to keep this beast going??

>?

> YS shipped all engines with no gap on the valves. However, I always open > it slightly before the first start. Also, take off the valve cover and wet > sand the contact surface on a smooth surface with very fine sand paper. By > doing that, you will eliminate any uneven high spot on the valve cover, > causing the engine to surge due to air leaks.?

>?

> Open up the cam cover and drop a few drops of oil inside to lube the the > cam.?

>?

> Use either YS or OS F plug?

>?

> No after run oil is necessary. After you finish flying, no need to run out > the excess fuel, unless you're planning not to fly for over a year.?

>?

>?

>>Break In: What prop? Lower the nitro? Follow the instructions or is >>there a better way??

>?

> Just use a slightly smaller diameter prop for break-in, and you can use > the same nitro, just run it rich for the first 4 - 5 tanks and gradually > lean it. I used a 16.5x13w for break-in, fly it for 5 - 6 flights on > 17x12w. Currently, I'm experimenting between 17.7x11.7 and 18x11 WPN > re-pitched to 18x12. RPM between 7,600 to 7,800?

>?

>?

>?

> On first start of the day, do not use a starter to prime the engine - > since when you turn the prop, pump will feed fuel into engine. Just turn > over the prop 4 - 5 times, then, rock the spinner cone back and forth 4 - > 5 times to activate the pump, it's ready to start. You do not need to > prime the engine again after the first flight.?

>?

> Preferably, use a time delay glow driver - to prevent knocking/ kick back. > Do not take the starter away as soon as the engine stated, let it spin for > an additional 2 - 3 seconds to ensure the engine is indeed started to > prevent abrupt stop.?

>?

> The 170 is pretty much bullet proof, the last one I sent back for service > have had over 500 flights. It only needed front and rear bearing and > piston ring.?

>?

> If you have other question, feel free to contact me.?

>?

> Adrian?

>?

>?

>?

>?

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