[NSRCA-discussion] YS newbie questions

[Ed Alt]

Thanks to all who responded, very helpful.

Ed
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <adriancwong at earthlink.net>
To: "General pattern discussion" <nsrca-discussion at lists.nsrca.org>
Sent: Saturday, October 25, 2008 2:09 AM
Subject: Re: [NSRCA-discussion] YS newbie questions


> Ed,
>
>>Exhaust: I guess you buy the Hatori 821 and call it a day?  Any special 
>>mounting tips?
>
> Most likely you will be couple the 821 pipe with either the 822 or 823 
> header - different rise height. Suggest using a Nishioka quick release 
> pipe mount instead of the pipe mount that came with the pipe. The Nishioka 
> came in three different heights - 20, 29 and 37 mm rise. Again, it all 
> depends on which header that you're using.
>
>
>>Engine mount: I've heard a little bit about an isolation mount that YS 
>>makes, but it's pricey.  What, if anything does this buy you as compared 
>>to a Hyde / Budd mount solution?
>
> Budd mount is good, but I've found it a bit on the noisy side. Also, I 
> wish Jerry will switch from 4-40 to 6-32 on the mounting bolts. So far, 
> I've found the YS mount the best - between idling and full throttle. Less 
> noise and less vibration.
>
>
>>Fuel:  What's the real deal with the oil?  Not the percentage, because I 
>>know that's being experimented with, but what oil does this engine require 
>>in the fuel?
>
> Recommend using either Coolpower 30% heli, or 30% with low smoke - all 
> synthetic, don't use anything with caster oil. I preferred the regular 30% 
> heli than the low smoke.
>
>>
>>Maintenance:  I'ev heard that prior to the first run, you need to take the 
>>head cover off and oil up the lifters.  True?  What kind of oil, how much 
>>etc?  What about after run?  None needed?  What other maintenance tips are 
>>there to keep this beast going?
>
> YS shipped all engines with no gap on the valves. However, I always open 
> it slightly before the first start. Also, take off the valve cover and wet 
> sand the contact surface on a smooth surface with very fine sand paper. By 
> doing that, you will eliminate any uneven high spot on the valve cover, 
> causing the engine to surge due to air leaks.
>
> Open up the cam cover and drop a few drops of oil inside to lube the the 
> cam.
>
> Use either YS or OS F plug
>
> No after run oil is necessary. After you finish flying, no need to run out 
> the excess fuel, unless you're planning not to fly for over a year.
>
>
>>Break In:  What prop?  Lower the nitro?  Follow the instructions or is 
>>there a better way?
>
> Just use a slightly smaller diameter prop for break-in, and you can use 
> the same nitro, just run it rich for the first 4 - 5 tanks and gradually 
> lean it. I used a 16.5x13w for break-in, fly it for 5 - 6 flights on 
> 17x12w. Currently, I'm experimenting between 17.7x11.7 and 18x11 WPN 
> re-pitched to 18x12. RPM between 7,600 to 7,800
>
>
>
> On first start of the day, do not use a starter to prime the engine - 
> since when you turn the prop, pump will feed fuel into engine. Just turn 
> over the prop 4 - 5 times, then, rock the spinner cone back and forth 4 - 
> 5 times to activate the pump, it's ready to start. You do not need to 
> prime the engine again after the first flight.
>
> Preferably, use a time delay glow driver - to prevent knocking/ kick back. 
> Do not take the starter away as soon as the engine stated, let it spin for 
> an additional 2 - 3 seconds to ensure the engine is indeed started to 
> prevent abrupt stop.
>
> The 170 is pretty much bullet proof, the last one I sent back for service 
> have had over 500 flights. It only needed front and rear bearing and 
> piston ring.
>
> If you have other question, feel free to contact me.
>
> Adrian
>
>
>
>
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