<div>Are you guys seeing that it really needs that much oil? The ignition timing is in a can on this engine and you don't need to use mixture as your timing mechanism. Is the con-rod still bushed or has YS switched to needle bearings?</div>
<div> </div>
<div>I suppose the amount of oil in heli fuel won't really hurt anything but why would one not use, say, 12% oil?<SPAN contentEditable=false style="DISPLAY: inline-block"></SPAN> It should allow better gas mileage but not at the expense of bushings breaking down/seezing</div>
<div> </div>
<div>Eddie were you quoted a price? I'm thinking about this one too</div>
<div> </div>
<div>MattK</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div><br>
</div>
-----Original Message-----<br>
From: Ed Alt <ed_alt@hotmail.com><br>
To: adriancwong@earthlink.net; General pattern discussion <nsrca-discussion@lists.nsrca.org><br>
Sent: Sat, 25 Oct 2008 11:26 am<br>
Subject: Re: [NSRCA-discussion] YS newbie questions<br>
<br>
<div id=AOLMsgPart_0_13f9e423-9e37-45d8-b23b-8f957188e716 style="FONT-SIZE: 12px; MARGIN: 0px; COLOR: #000; FONT-FAMILY: Tahoma, Verdana, Arial, Sans-Serif; BACKGROUND-COLOR: #fff">Thanks to all who responded, very helpful. <br>
<br>
Ed <br>
----- Original Message ----- From: <<A href="mailto:adriancwong@earthlink.net">adriancwong@earthlink.net</A>> <br>
To: "General pattern discussion" <<A href="mailto:nsrca-discussion@lists.nsrca.org">nsrca-discussion@lists.nsrca.org</A>> <br>
Sent: Saturday, October 25, 2008 2:09 AM <br>
Subject: Re: [NSRCA-discussion] YS newbie questions <br>
<br>
> Ed, <br>
> <br>
>>Exhaust: I guess you buy the Hatori 821 and call it a day? Any special >>mounting tips? <br>
> <br>
> Most likely you will be couple the 821 pipe with either the 822 or 823 > header - different rise height. Suggest using a Nishioka quick release > pipe mount instead of the pipe mount that came with the pipe. The Nishioka > came in three different heights - 20, 29 and 37 mm rise. Again, it all > depends on which header that you're using. <br>
> <br>
> <br>
>>Engine mount: I've heard a little bit about an isolation mount that YS >>makes, but it's pricey. What, if anything does this buy you as compared >>to a Hyde / Budd mount solution? <br>
> <br>
> Budd mount is good, but I've found it a bit on the noisy side. Also, I > wish Jerry will switch from 4-40 to 6-32 on the mounting bolts. So far, > I've found the YS mount the best - between idling and full throttle. Less > noise and less vibration. <br>
> <br>
> <br>
>>Fuel: What's the real deal with the oil? Not the percentage, because I >>know that's being experimented with, but what oil does this engine require >>in the fuel? <br>
> <br>
> Recommend using either Coolpower 30% heli, or 30% with low smoke - all > synthetic, don't use anything with caster oil. I preferred the regular 30% > heli than the low smoke. <br>
> <br>
>> <br>
>>Maintenance: I'ev heard that prior to the first run, you need to take the >>head cover off and oil up the lifters. True? What kind of oil, how much >>etc? What about after run? None needed? What other maintenance tips are >>there to keep this beast going? <br>
> <br>
> YS shipped all engines with no gap on the valves. However, I always open > it slightly before the first start. Also, take off the valve cover and wet > sand the contact surface on a smooth surface with very fine sand paper. By > doing that, you will eliminate any uneven high spot on the valve cover, > causing the engine to surge due to air leaks. <br>
> <br>
> Open up the cam cover and drop a few drops of oil inside to lube the the > cam. <br>
> <br>
> Use either YS or OS F plug <br>
> <br>
> No after run oil is necessary. After you finish flying, no need to run out > the excess fuel, unless you're planning not to fly for over a year. <br>
> <br>
> <br>
>>Break In: What prop? Lower the nitro? Follow the instructions or is >>there a better way? <br>
> <br>
> Just use a slightly smaller diameter prop for break-in, and you can use > the same nitro, just run it rich for the first 4 - 5 tanks and gradually > lean it. I used a 16.5x13w for break-in, fly it for 5 - 6 flights on > 17x12w. Currently, I'm experimenting between 17.7x11.7 and 18x11 WPN > re-pitched to 18x12. RPM between 7,600 to 7,800 <br>
> <br>
> <br>
> <br>
> On first start of the day, do not use a starter to prime the engine - > since when you turn the prop, pump will feed fuel into engine. Just turn > over the prop 4 - 5 times, then, rock the spinner cone back and forth 4 - > 5 times to activate the pump, it's ready to start. You do not need to > prime the engine again after the first flight. <br>
> <br>
> Preferably, use a time delay glow driver - to prevent knocking/ kick back. > Do not take the starter away as soon as the engine stated, let it spin for > an additional 2 - 3 seconds to ensure the engine is indeed started to > prevent abrupt stop. <br>
> <br>
> The 170 is pretty much bullet proof, the last one I sent back for service > have had over 500 flights. It only needed front and rear bearing and > piston ring. <br>
> <br>
> If you have other question, feel free to contact me. <br>
> <br>
> Adrian <br>
> <br>
> <br>
> <br>
> <br>
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