[NSRCA-discussion] paint

[Dave Smith]

FWIW,when Imron first hit the modelling scene many years ago,the advice was to wear a complete protective suit when using Imron.And I believe,with it's own separate air supply.

Dave
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Gray E Fowler 
  To: NSRCA Mailing List 
  Sent: Wednesday, July 12, 2006 3:13 PM
  Subject: Re: [NSRCA-discussion] paint



  Tim 

  I am unaware of Imron properties. Clear coat is a protection for some systems that are not fuel proof and for pigmented car systems that absolutely require a reactive clear coat. I do not trust that a paint shop person is aware of the nitromethane chemical resistance of Imron. Pehaps someone on this list does know. 

  Single stage paints, such as PPG DBU etc are a non reactive carrier resin pigmented with a color and fillers. They basically "dry" or evaporate a solvent and what is left behind is the non reacted resin and color. Clearcoats are reactive, which is a thermosetting polymer-non reversable. Single stage paints dry and then can be removed with a slovent wipe, or fuel on your plane. 

  But! it is important tp point out that single stage paints are not affected by electric battery exhaust, except for the occasional unbalanced cell act. 



  Gray Fowler
  Senior Principal Chemical Engineer
  Radome and Composites Engineering
  Raytheon 


        "Tim" <twortkoetter at yahoo.com> 
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        07/12/2006 10:39 AM Please respond to
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  I am getting ready to spray imron.  I have never painted anything.  I told the paint shop what I was using it for and they said I didn’t need a clear and I didn’t get any reducer.  What type of reducer and how much should I use for this type of paint.  Also why do you use clear over a single stage paint.   
   

  Tim 

   

  -----Original Message-----
  From: nsrca-discussion-bounces at lists.nsrca.org [mailto:nsrca-discussion-bounces at lists.nsrca.org] On Behalf Of Gray E Fowler
  Sent: Wednesday, July 12, 2006 8:17 AM
  To: NSRCA Mailing List
  Subject: Re: [NSRCA-discussion] paint 

   


  Robert 

  Humidity is not a problem, dew point is. Since it is warm now in most places this should not be a problem.  The amount of reducer called out by the paint manufacturer has two purposes, 

  1. Reduce the viscosity so a standard paint gun can atomize 
  2. Only reduce the viscosity barely enough as to meet EPA volatile organic emmision requirements 

  The PPG "reducer" amounts allow the car painting guy to seriously "lay it on" with out fear of runs or overspray. Unfortunately laying it on an airplane increases weight. A thicker clear coat will not really protect your plane better than a thinner coat, so it is just weight. Adding more reducer (its really a blend of different solvents)  will allow for thinner coats, less overspray, but can increase runs. 

  The reducer like I mentioned is a blend of solvents, and all of this 100% evaporates and has nothing to do with the urethane chemical reaction that cures the clearcoat. You can add as much reducer as you want without reprisal...except from the EPA, which I doubt will go after an individual pattern guy...but I could be wrong.  So once you are comfortable with increasing your local pollution level...add that 200% reducer!!! 



  Gray Fowler
  Senior Principal Chemical Engineer
  Radome and Composites Engineering
  Raytheon 


        "Robert Mairs" <robertm at sssnet.com> 
        Sent by: nsrca-discussion-bounces at lists.nsrca.org 
        07/12/2006 05:42 AM 


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  Couple of painting questions.

  Weathers turned to crap around here again.  How much humidity is to humid to 
  paint?

  I've been reading where the jet guys are reducing they're clear coat to a 
  200% ratio.  They think it's great.  Anybody tried this? 


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