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<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>FWIW,when Imron first hit the modelling scene many
years ago,the advice was to wear a complete protective suit when using Imron.And
I believe,with it's own separate air supply.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Dave</FONT></DIV>
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<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV
style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: black"><B>From:</B>
<A title=gfowler@raytheon.com href="mailto:gfowler@raytheon.com">Gray E
Fowler</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A
title=nsrca-discussion@lists.nsrca.org
href="mailto:nsrca-discussion@lists.nsrca.org">NSRCA Mailing List</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Wednesday, July 12, 2006 3:13
PM</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Re: [NSRCA-discussion]
paint</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV><BR><FONT face=sans-serif size=2>Tim</FONT> <BR><BR><FONT
face=sans-serif size=2>I am unaware of Imron properties. Clear coat is a
protection for some systems that are not fuel proof and for pigmented car
systems that absolutely require a reactive clear coat. I do not trust that a
paint shop person is aware of the nitromethane chemical resistance of Imron.
Pehaps someone on this list does know.</FONT> <BR><BR><FONT face=sans-serif
size=2>Single stage paints, such as PPG DBU etc are a non reactive carrier
resin pigmented with a color and fillers. They basically "dry" or evaporate a
solvent and what is left behind is the non reacted resin and color. Clearcoats
are reactive, which is a thermosetting polymer-non reversable. Single stage
paints dry and then can be removed with a slovent wipe, or fuel on your
plane.</FONT> <BR><BR><FONT face=sans-serif size=2>But! it is important tp
point out that single stage paints are not affected by electric battery
exhaust, except for the occasional unbalanced cell act.</FONT> <BR><FONT
face=sans-serif size=2><BR><BR><BR>Gray Fowler<BR>Senior Principal Chemical
Engineer<BR>Radome and Composites Engineering<BR>Raytheon</FONT> <BR><BR><BR>
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<TD width="40%"><FONT face=sans-serif size=1><B>"Tim"
<twortkoetter@yahoo.com></B> </FONT><BR><FONT face=sans-serif
size=1>Sent by: nsrca-discussion-bounces@lists.nsrca.org</FONT>
<P><FONT face=sans-serif size=1>07/12/2006 10:39 AM</FONT>
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<TD><FONT face=sans-serif size=1>Re: [NSRCA-discussion]
paint</FONT></TR></TBODY></TABLE><BR>
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<TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE><BR></TR></TBODY></TABLE><BR><BR><BR><FONT face=Arial
color=#000080 size=2>I am getting ready to spray imron. I have never
painted anything. I told the paint shop what I was using it for and they
said I didn’t need a clear and I didn’t get any reducer. What type of
reducer and how much should I use for this type of paint. Also why do
you use clear over a single stage paint. </FONT>
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<P><FONT face=Arial color=#000080 size=2>Tim</FONT>
<P><FONT face=Arial color=#000080 size=2></FONT>
<P><FONT face=Tahoma size=2>-----Original Message-----<B><BR>From:</B>
nsrca-discussion-bounces@lists.nsrca.org
[mailto:nsrca-discussion-bounces@lists.nsrca.org] <B>On Behalf Of </B>Gray E
Fowler<B><BR>Sent:</B> Wednesday, July 12, 2006 8:17 AM<B><BR>To:</B> NSRCA
Mailing List<B><BR>Subject:</B> Re: [NSRCA-discussion] paint</FONT>
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<P><FONT face=sans-serif size=2><BR>Robert</FONT><FONT face="Times New Roman"
size=3> <BR></FONT><FONT face=sans-serif size=2><BR>Humidity is not a problem,
dew point is. Since it is warm now in most places this should not be a
problem. The amount of reducer called out by the paint manufacturer has
two purposes, </FONT><FONT face="Times New Roman" size=3><BR></FONT><FONT
face=sans-serif size=2><BR>1. Reduce the viscosity so a standard paint gun can
atomize</FONT><FONT face="Times New Roman" size=3> </FONT><FONT
face=sans-serif size=2><BR>2. Only reduce the viscosity barely enough as to
meet EPA volatile organic emmision requirements </FONT><FONT
face="Times New Roman" size=3><BR></FONT><FONT face=sans-serif size=2><BR>The
PPG "reducer" amounts allow the car painting guy to seriously "lay it on" with
out fear of runs or overspray. Unfortunately laying it on an airplane
increases weight. A thicker clear coat will not really protect your plane
better than a thinner coat, so it is just weight. Adding more reducer (its
really a blend of different solvents) will allow for thinner coats, less
overspray, but can increase runs. </FONT><FONT face="Times New Roman"
size=3><BR></FONT><FONT face=sans-serif size=2><BR>The reducer like I
mentioned is a blend of solvents, and all of this 100% evaporates and has
nothing to do with the urethane chemical reaction that cures the clearcoat.
You can add as much reducer as you want without reprisal...except from the
EPA, which I doubt will go after an individual pattern guy...but I could be
wrong. So once you are comfortable with increasing your local pollution
level...add that 200% reducer!!!</FONT><FONT face="Times New Roman" size=3>
</FONT><FONT face=sans-serif size=2><BR><BR><BR><BR>Gray Fowler<BR>Senior
Principal Chemical Engineer<BR>Radome and Composites
Engineering<BR>Raytheon</FONT><FONT face="Times New Roman" size=3> <BR></FONT>
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<TD width="48%"><FONT face=sans-serif size=1><B>"Robert Mairs"
<robertm@sssnet.com></B> <BR>Sent by:
nsrca-discussion-bounces@lists.nsrca.org</FONT><FONT
face="Times New Roman" size=3> </FONT>
<P><FONT face=sans-serif size=1>07/12/2006 05:42 AM</FONT><FONT
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<TD><FONT face=sans-serif size=1>[NSRCA-discussion]
paint</FONT></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
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<P><FONT face="Times New Roman" size=3><BR><BR></FONT><FONT face="Courier New"
size=2><BR>Couple of painting questions.<BR><BR>Weathers turned to crap around
here again. How much humidity is to humid to <BR>paint?<BR><BR>I've been
reading where the jet guys are reducing they're clear coat to a <BR>200%
ratio. They think it's great. Anybody tried this?
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