[NSRCA-discussion] YS newbie questions

[adriancwong at earthlink.net]

Ed,

>Exhaust: I guess you buy the Hatori 821 and call it a day?  Any special mounting tips?

Most likely you will be couple the 821 pipe with either the 822 or 823 header - different rise height. Suggest using a Nishioka quick release pipe mount instead of the pipe mount that came with the pipe. The Nishioka came in three different heights - 20, 29 and 37 mm rise. Again, it all depends on which header that you're using.


>Engine mount: I've heard a little bit about an isolation mount that YS makes, but it's pricey.  What, if anything does this buy you as compared to a Hyde / Budd mount solution?

Budd mount is good, but I've found it a bit on the noisy side. Also, I wish Jerry will switch from 4-40 to 6-32 on the mounting bolts. So far, I've found the YS mount the best - between idling and full throttle. Less noise and less vibration.


>Fuel:  What's the real deal with the oil?  Not the percentage, because I know that's being experimented with, but what oil does this engine require in the fuel?

Recommend using either Coolpower 30% heli, or 30% with low smoke - all synthetic, don't use anything with caster oil. I preferred the regular 30% heli than the low smoke.

>
>Maintenance:  I'ev heard that prior to the first run, you need to take the head cover off and oil up the lifters.  True?  What kind of oil, how much etc?  What about after run?  None needed?  What other maintenance tips are there to keep this beast going?  

YS shipped all engines with no gap on the valves. However, I always open it slightly before the first start. Also, take off the valve cover and wet sand the contact surface on a smooth surface with very fine sand paper. By doing that, you will eliminate any uneven high spot on the valve cover, causing the engine to surge due to air leaks.

Open up the cam cover and drop a few drops of oil inside to lube the the cam.

Use either YS or OS F plug

No after run oil is necessary. After you finish flying, no need to run out the excess fuel, unless you're planning not to fly for over a year.


>Break In:  What prop?  Lower the nitro?  Follow the instructions or is there a better way?  

Just use a slightly smaller diameter prop for break-in, and you can use the same nitro, just run it rich for the first 4 - 5 tanks and gradually lean it. I used a 16.5x13w for break-in, fly it for 5 - 6 flights on 17x12w. Currently, I'm experimenting between 17.7x11.7 and 18x11 WPN re-pitched to 18x12. RPM between 7,600 to 7,800



On first start of the day, do not use a starter to prime the engine - since when you turn the prop, pump will feed fuel into engine. Just turn over the prop 4 - 5 times, then, rock the spinner cone back and forth 4 - 5 times to activate the pump, it's ready to start. You do not need to prime the engine again after the first flight.

Preferably, use a time delay glow driver - to prevent knocking/ kick back. Do not take the starter away as soon as the engine stated, let it spin for an additional 2 - 3 seconds to ensure the engine is indeed started to prevent abrupt stop.

The 170 is pretty much bullet proof, the last one I sent back for service have had over 500 flights. It only needed front and rear bearing and piston ring.

If you have other question, feel free to contact me.

Adrian