[NSRCA-discussion] Remote Glow Trouble

[Fred Huber]

Remote Glow TroubleQuick test:
Use a temporary jumper from the base of the glow plug to the bolt you have the ground anchored to.  You can't fly with this jumper wire in place, but if it allows the engine to start, then the anodizing is still a problem.

The wire guage used in RC car batteries should be more than adequate for the application.

Also check to see that the collar you screwed onto the glow plug is not shorting to the base (nut section) of the plug.... You should be able to slide a playing card between the collar and the top of the main body of the plug.  The wire lengths plus the jack may give enough resistance to have the glow driver indicate an OK cicuit (no short) even if the plug is shorted...
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: Pascoe,Tim [Burlington] 
  To: nsrca-discussion at lists.nsrca.org 
  Sent: Monday, July 31, 2006 3:03 PM
  Subject: [NSRCA-discussion] Remote Glow Trouble


  I recently put a remote glow system on my Mintor 1.70, but haven't yet managed to get it to work. Following some suggestions from the list, I carefully removed the anodizing on the inside of the head, where it seats on the rim of the sleeve. I'm getting a closed circuit, according to my igniter, but apparently the current is not high enough to get the plug hot enough to start the engine. I used fairly heavy silicone wrapped wire (similar to that used for RC Car batteries), and I'm wondering if perhaps this is causing too much resistance? The remote is grounded on a mounting bolt of the engine. 'm using an older Radio South Pro-Driver MKII, and get 4 lights when the remote is connected. Can I boost the power to the plug somehow? Or should I change another part of the installation? It uses a specially machined collar to lock on the glow plug tip with set screws, and a standard 2.5mm power jack through the fuse side.

  Any suggestions?

  Thanks,

  Tim Pascoe



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