Remote Glow Question

[Ed Miller]

Yes, the plug threads are anodized, every square inch of the head is
anodized.
Ed M.
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "richard.lewis" <richard.lewis at idmcontrols.com>
To: <discussion at nsrca.org>
Sent: Monday, April 19, 2004 5:54 PM
Subject: RE: Remote Glow Question


> Why would you need to remove the anodizing from the plug seat.  The plug
> threads are not anodized are they?  The thread contact area should be more
> that sufficient to conduct current from the plug body to the head.  I
> understand the need to remove the anodizing at one of the cylinder bolts,
> but not the plug seat.
>
> Richard
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: discussion-request at nsrca.org
> [mailto:discussion-request at nsrca.org]On Behalf Of
> patterndude at comcast.net
> Sent: Monday, April 19, 2004 4:47 PM
> To: discussion at nsrca.org
> Subject: Re: Remote Glow Question
>
>
> I'm not Ed, but as a seller of these engines, I can answer.  The anodizing
> is non-conductive so you need an electrical conductive path from the glow
> plug body back to the ground side of your glow driver.  I found a two wire
> glow plug clip at a hobby show a few years ago that had one wire for the
> center pin and another for the glow plug body.  The clip was shaped like
the
> end of a glow driver and made contact with both parts of the plug.
>    The lightweight clips people have been discussing on this list only
> connect to the glow plug center pin.  The ground side of the connection
> consists of a wire that connects to one of the engine mount screws.  The
> assumption is that there is electrical conductivity from the engine mount
> lug to the glow plug body.  For this to work at least one of the head
> mounting bolts must have a bolt head seat that is not anodized and the
glow
> plug seat must also be non-anodized.  The Mintor heads already have a
> non-anodized mount bolt seat, but you may want to check if you continue to
> have problems.
>    When removing the anodizing from the glow plug seat you need to be very
> careful.  The glow plug needs to seat and seal so that it does not leak.
> The copper washer helps, but if the seat area becomes rough or distorted,
it
> will be too much for the copper washer to compensate for.  I used a dremel
> grinding bit that was made of stone and had a flat tip.  It was small
enough
> to fit into the glow plug recess.  However, I mounted it in my variable
> speed drill, not my dremel, so I could control the grinding and remove the
> absolute minimum of material without causing any distortion.  All you want
> to do is remove the anodizing and you don't even have to remove it
> completely. Just enough so that their is electrical connection.
>   Believe me, it takes longer to read this than to do it.
> --Lance
>
>
> --
> District 6 AVP
> www.aeroslave.com
> > Ed, I am having the same problem with the Mintor head. What exactly did
> you have
> > to scrath off. I couldn't get contact either on the lug. JEZ
> >
> > =====================================
> > # To be removed from this list, go to
http://www.nsrca.org/discussionA.htm
> > and follow the instructions.
> >
> =====================================
> # To be removed from this list, go to http://www.nsrca.org/discussionA.htm
> and follow the instructions.
>
>
>
> =====================================
> # To be removed from this list, go to http://www.nsrca.org/discussionA.htm
> and follow the instructions.
>

=====================================
# To be removed from this list, go to http://www.nsrca.org/discussionA.htm
and follow the instructions.