Control horns, is it just me or... ?

[GW]

Thanks for the info Brian

Now  that product would accomplish what we want. 3/4" long will reach the
hingline in most applications of aileron and elevator. The longer one would
be a great match for Rudders with large bevels. Durability will be the next
test.
Probably want to dump the cotter pin setup, (have not seen one in hand, so
Im guessing on that) Match up the Hayes clevises with steel pin and you
would have a nice setup on the hingeline.
GW
Gerald Williams
Email : gw at gwair.com
Webpage: www.gwair.com

Support Tony Stillman District 5 VP
http://webpages.charter.net/nneville/nneville/



----- Original Message -----
From: "Brian Young" <b4598070 at yahoo.com>
To: <discussion at nsrca.org>
Sent: Wednesday, September 03, 2003 11:04 AM
Subject: Re: Control horns, is it just me or... ?


> Have you seen the new Dubro products? They are
> offering a couple new horns, one at 3/4" offset might
> be about right:
>
> http://dubro.com/du-bro/dub_cat/images/DUB04.jpg
>
> They arent very sexy looking but could work.
>
>
> --- Keith Black <tkeithb at comcast.net> wrote:
> > Tom,
> >
> > You make a good point about the ZNLine horns not
> > being adjustable in height.
> >
> > Honestly, if I could just find some longer arms to
> > go on the IM horns that
> > would solve the problem. It's surprising to me how
> > many manufactures have
> > not considered this, especially since pull-pull has
> > been such a big deal for
> > a while now.
> >
> > One reason I'm being picky about this is that on
> > this plane I was
> > considering using pull-pull on the elevator and
> > rudder. That means three
> > different surfaces (two elevator halves and the
> > rudder) need the connection
> > point over the hinge. This also rules out angling
> > the horn arm since the
> > opposite side would stick out the wrong direction.
> > Since, I'll be doing this
> > on three surfaces I'd prefer to use a product that's
> > designed to do the job
> > rather than trying to make something work that
> > wasn't designed to solve the
> > problem.
> >
> > Thanks for you input, you made some good points.
> >
> > Keith Black
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Koenig, Tom" <Tom.Koenig at actewagl.com.au>
> > To: <discussion at nsrca.org>
> > Sent: Tuesday, September 02, 2003 10:33 PM
> > Subject: RE: Control horns, is it just me or... ?
> >
> >
> > >
> > > Keith,
> > > Try a smaller bevel...but do both sides of the
> > hinge line.
> > >
> > > I do it much like Gerald. I use 3 mm stainless
> > steel rod however for my
> > > horns. I make sure the threads are rolled threads
> > and not cut. I bevel
> > both
> > > sides of the hinge line, and then I spend a little
> > time on the lathe and
> > > make up a little 'cone' style rod supports, much
> > like what you now see on
> > > the IM hardware.
> > >
> > > I prefer the threaded rod style 'horns'. The fine
> > metric thread can give
> > you
> > > very precise adjustments when setting up a model.
> > I do it all mechanically
> > > first. I find then that the 'electronic'
> > adjustment is only a few percent
> > > either way. Sometimes I 'turn' my threaded rod by
> > only a 1/4 of a turn to
> > > get the exact throw I'm after, then I'll glue and
> > lock it down.
> > > Infact I have found great variations in accuracy
> > in the actual servos this
> > > way.
> > >
> > > I guess thats one advantage some sponsored flyers
> > have..they can go
> > through
> > > a pile of servos to "match" them as close as
> > possible to each other.
> > >
> > > I too have used the ZN, PL horns....but they limit
> > you to the height of
> > the
> > > horn. There is only one place to mount your
> > clevis. I find I cannot get
> > the
> > > mechanical adjustment I require from this style of
> > horn...but they sure
> > look
> > > nice! Impractical in my book however. I just
> > cannot maximise the
> > resolution
> > > of my radio using this style of horn.
> > >
> > > There are some plastic arms out there that measure
> > 8mm from centerline to
> > > the pivot hole. I buy them from our local
> > shop...BUT...they only come as
> > > part of  an aileron torque rod set up. I believe
> > they are a British brand.
> > > The make is RADIOACTIVE. I really cant help you
> > much more than that. I am
> > > unaware of a website for them ( I have not looked
> > yet!). I just use the
> > > arms. The torque rods end up getting twisted into
> > "art" <BG> by my three
> > > year old!
> > >
> > > If you get really stuck, I''ll ask what I can at
> > our local shop. Failing
> > > that , I can try and send some to you if  you are
> > desperate. Just remember
> > > I'm down here in the land of Aussies, so it too is
> > a long way!
> > >
> > > Good luck and zap me offline if you need any
> > further help.
> > >
> > > Tom
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > > ----------
> > > > From: Keith Black[SMTP:tkeithb at comcast.net]
> > > > Reply To: discussion at nsrca.org
> > > > Sent: Wednesday, 3 September 2003 13:49
> > > > To: discussion at nsrca.org
> > > > Subject: Re: Control horns, is it just me or...
> > ?
> > > >
> > > > Gerald, thanks for the reply, your description
> > was quite clear.
> > > >
> > > > How do you deal with the pull-pull horns for the
> > rudder (especially
> > > > considering that the rudder has a larger bevel
> > to allow larger
> > > > deflection)?
> > > >
> > > > Thanks,
> > > > Keith
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > > From: GW
> > > > To: discussion at nsrca.org
> > > > Sent: Tuesday, September 02, 2003 9:31 PM
> > > > Subject: Re: Control horns, is it just me or...
> > ?
> > > >
> > > > What I do on ailerons and elev.
> > > >
> > > > Install 1/2" dowel in surface. starting roughly
> > 1/8" from LE bevel.
> > > > Set up drill press plate for a 10 degree table
> > tilt.
> > > > Tape moveable surface into the aileron(elev)
> > cutout shuck (bottom of
> > > > surface up) WIth it in its shuck and the 10
> > degree angle on the Press,
> > > > drill 1/8 hole through the Dowel starting at
> > about the top of the
> > beveled
> > > > surface . This will put the exit near the rear
> > of the dowel on the top
> > of
> > > > surface, but it does not matter. Shoot a 6/32
> > hardened bolt though the
> > > > dowel, It will be tight, but thats what were
> > looking for, let it tap its
> > > > own threads as your run it in. Go about 3/4 the
> > way into the surface and
> > > > stop. cutoff the excess with the cutoff wheel.
> > > > Attach your favorite aileron connector and
> > clevis now, and you will
> > > > be very close to the hingeline.
> > > >
> > > > Or you can do as a majority do, and dont worry
> > about it. Youcan use
> > > > your CRC meter to get the deflections the same.
> > Our really neat computer
> > > > radios have taken alot of the need to build
> > perfect out of the equation.
> > > > I like to do it right myself, but thats just me.
> > > >
> > > > This is just one way to do it with minimal
> > trouble, and less
> > > > expense. Im sure others will have a better
> > approach that works for them.
> > > >
> > > > I can draw CorelDraw or ACAD file that would
> > illustrate this better
> > > > if anyone has an interest.
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > GW
> > > > Gerald Williams
> > > > Email : gw at gwair.com
> > > > Webpage: www.gwair.com
> > > >
> > > > Support Tony Stillman District 5 VP
> > > > http://webpages.charter.net/nneville/nneville/
> >
> === message truncated ===
>
>
> =====
> Brian Young
> Tulsa
> b4598070 at yahoo.com
> 918-745-6046h
> 918-838-0900w
>
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