Control horns, is it just me or... ?

Wed Sep 3 08:18:22 AKDT 2003

The only one I'd seen was the 8-32 version and it's HUGE!  

The model 867 on the 6-32 screw is certainly a possibility though.

Thanks,
Keith Black

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Brian Young" <b4598070 at yahoo.com>
To: <discussion at nsrca.org>
Sent: Wednesday, September 03, 2003 11:04 AM
Subject: Re: Control horns, is it just me or... ?

> Have you seen the new Dubro products? They are
> offering a couple new horns, one at 3/4" offset might
> be about right:
> 
> http://dubro.com/du-bro/dub_cat/images/DUB04.jpg
> 
> They arent very sexy looking but could work.
> 
> 
> --- Keith Black <tkeithb at comcast.net> wrote:
> > Tom,
> > 
> > You make a good point about the ZNLine horns not
> > being adjustable in height.
> > 
> > Honestly, if I could just find some longer arms to
> > go on the IM horns that
> > would solve the problem. It's surprising to me how
> > many manufactures have
> > not considered this, especially since pull-pull has
> > been such a big deal for
> > a while now.
> > 
> > One reason I'm being picky about this is that on
> > this plane I was
> > considering using pull-pull on the elevator and
> > rudder. That means three
> > different surfaces (two elevator halves and the
> > rudder) need the connection
> > point over the hinge. This also rules out angling
> > the horn arm since the
> > opposite side would stick out the wrong direction.
> > Since, I'll be doing this
> > on three surfaces I'd prefer to use a product that's
> > designed to do the job
> > rather than trying to make something work that
> > wasn't designed to solve the
> > problem.
> > 
> > Thanks for you input, you made some good points.
> > 
> > Keith Black
> > 
> > 
> > ----- Original Message ----- 
> > From: "Koenig, Tom" <Tom.Koenig at actewagl.com.au>
> > To: <discussion at nsrca.org>
> > Sent: Tuesday, September 02, 2003 10:33 PM
> > Subject: RE: Control horns, is it just me or... ?
> > 
> > 
> > >
> > > Keith,
> > > Try a smaller bevel...but do both sides of the
> > hinge line.
> > >
> > > I do it much like Gerald. I use 3 mm stainless
> > steel rod however for my
> > > horns. I make sure the threads are rolled threads
> > and not cut. I bevel
> > both
> > > sides of the hinge line, and then I spend a little
> > time on the lathe and
> > > make up a little 'cone' style rod supports, much
> > like what you now see on
> > > the IM hardware.
> > >
> > > I prefer the threaded rod style 'horns'. The fine
> > metric thread can give
> > you
> > > very precise adjustments when setting up a model.
> > I do it all mechanically
> > > first. I find then that the 'electronic'
> > adjustment is only a few percent
> > > either way. Sometimes I 'turn' my threaded rod by
> > only a 1/4 of a turn to
> > > get the exact throw I'm after, then I'll glue and
> > lock it down.
> > > Infact I have found great variations in accuracy
> > in the actual servos this
> > > way.
> > >
> > > I guess thats one advantage some sponsored flyers
> > have..they can go
> > through
> > > a pile of servos to "match" them as close as
> > possible to each other.
> > >
> > > I too have used the ZN, PL horns....but they limit
> > you to the height of
> > the
> > > horn. There is only one place to mount your
> > clevis. I find I cannot get
> > the
> > > mechanical adjustment I require from this style of
> > horn...but they sure
> > look
> > > nice! Impractical in my book however. I just
> > cannot maximise the
> > resolution
> > > of my radio using this style of horn.
> > >
> > > There are some plastic arms out there that measure
> > 8mm from centerline to
> > > the pivot hole. I buy them from our local
> > shop...BUT...they only come as
> > > part of  an aileron torque rod set up. I believe
> > they are a British brand.
> > > The make is RADIOACTIVE. I really cant help you
> > much more than that. I am
> > > unaware of a website for them ( I have not looked
> > yet!). I just use the
> > > arms. The torque rods end up getting twisted into
> > "art" <BG> by my three
> > > year old!
> > >
> > > If you get really stuck, I''ll ask what I can at
> > our local shop. Failing
> > > that , I can try and send some to you if  you are
> > desperate. Just remember
> > > I'm down here in the land of Aussies, so it too is
> > a long way!
> > >
> > > Good luck and zap me offline if you need any
> > further help.
> > >
> > > Tom
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > > ----------
> > > > From: Keith Black[SMTP:tkeithb at comcast.net]
> > > > Reply To: discussion at nsrca.org
> > > > Sent: Wednesday, 3 September 2003 13:49
> > > > To: discussion at nsrca.org
> > > > Subject: Re: Control horns, is it just me or...
> > ?
> > > >
> > > > Gerald, thanks for the reply, your description
> > was quite clear.
> > > >
> > > > How do you deal with the pull-pull horns for the
> > rudder (especially
> > > > considering that the rudder has a larger bevel
> > to allow larger
> > > > deflection)?
> > > >
> > > > Thanks,
> > > > Keith
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > ----- Original Message ----- 
> > > > From: GW
> > > > To: discussion at nsrca.org
> > > > Sent: Tuesday, September 02, 2003 9:31 PM
> > > > Subject: Re: Control horns, is it just me or...
> > ?
> > > >
> > > > What I do on ailerons and elev.
> > > >
> > > > Install 1/2" dowel in surface. starting roughly
> > 1/8" from LE bevel.
> > > > Set up drill press plate for a 10 degree table
> > tilt.
> > > > Tape moveable surface into the aileron(elev)
> > cutout shuck (bottom of
> > > > surface up) WIth it in its shuck and the 10
> > degree angle on the Press,
> > > > drill 1/8 hole through the Dowel starting at
> > about the top of the
> > beveled
> > > > surface . This will put the exit near the rear
> > of the dowel on the top
> > of
> > > > surface, but it does not matter. Shoot a 6/32
> > hardened bolt though the
> > > > dowel, It will be tight, but thats what were
> > looking for, let it tap its
> > > > own threads as your run it in. Go about 3/4 the
> > way into the surface and
> > > > stop. cutoff the excess with the cutoff wheel.
> > > > Attach your favorite aileron connector and
> > clevis now, and you will
> > > > be very close to the hingeline.
> > > >
> > > > Or you can do as a majority do, and dont worry
> > about it. Youcan use
> > > > your CRC meter to get the deflections the same.
> > Our really neat computer
> > > > radios have taken alot of the need to build
> > perfect out of the equation.
> > > > I like to do it right myself, but thats just me.
> > > >
> > > > This is just one way to do it with minimal
> > trouble, and less
> > > > expense. Im sure others will have a better
> > approach that works for them.
> > > >
> > > > I can draw CorelDraw or ACAD file that would
> > illustrate this better
> > > > if anyone has an interest.
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > GW
> > > > Gerald Williams
> > > > Email : gw at gwair.com
> > > > Webpage: www.gwair.com
> > > >
> > > > Support Tony Stillman District 5 VP
> > > > http://webpages.charter.net/nneville/nneville/
> > 
> === message truncated ===
> 
> 
> =====
> Brian Young
> Tulsa
> b4598070 at yahoo.com
> 918-745-6046h
> 918-838-0900w
> 
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