Quest #2

[White, Chris]

I remember seeing Hanno Prettners Super Sicroly in MAN....he actually used
bent wire trim devices on the ends of his surfaces (permanent type) for trim
alignment checks  on the ground.  I always wondered how he kept them from
bending???
Neat idea though....
 
 

-----Original Message-----
From: discussion-request at nsrca.org [mailto:discussion-request at nsrca.org]On
Behalf Of Bill Glaze
Sent: Tuesday, November 11, 2003 5:24 PM
To: discussion at nsrca.org
Subject: Re: Quest #2


Setting trim:  Good idea, Eric.  Simple, easy, foolproof.  Bill Glaze

Henderson,Eric wrote:


With a balmy 54F in NJ today, I took my second Quest to lunch with me!!!
 
The YS 1.10 was given a quick break-in on the ground and then the plane was
flown. Nothing spectacular to report. The plane flew well. Still needs a
little more right thrust. Even running very rich the 1.10 would pull the
plane straight up with the "break-in" APC 14 x 11. The engine has YS Engine
Performance Specialties 90 degree header and muffler. I use an Hatori black
rubber diverter to keep the oil away from the bottom of the fuselage. With
this set-up you can keep everything inside the cowl.
 
The plane weighs 9 lb 2.2 oz and feels very light on the sticks.
 
I did two long flights and went home satisfied that the YS1.10 will be
killer once it is run in. It was very friendly from the outset and ran well
even when set rich. I will run the 14 x 12 and the 14 x 13 when it is full
broken in.
 
A comment on CG. I have had more e-mails on this subject than any other
aspect of the plane. The plane calls for 165 mm from the LE. I ran my 1.40
version at 175 mm and it still carried a little up-trim. The latest plane
was set a 170 mm and now carries more up trim than the first one. I shall
move the CG back on both of them to see if it has any adverse affects and to
advise on what is a sensible rearward CG. 
 
As it stand 175 mm (~6-3/4") works just fine.
 
One trimming tip. After you land you often find that you have beeped in a
few % of trim here and there. If you like keeping your main trims at zero%
you will most likely the electronic sub-trim or mechanical pushrod
adjustment. It is hard to reproduce the desired trim by eye or feel.
 
A neat trick is to use two pins. Put one pin sticking straight out of the TE
of the aileron. Then position a second pin sticking out of the TE of the
wing. Line the pins up. Then take out the stick trim-setting and re-align
the control surface pins with the sub-trim or turnbuckle or whatever.
 
You can be very accurate with this and it is also very easy to do in field
conditions.
 
Regards,

Eric.

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