[NSRCA-discussion] YS points of interest

Koenig, Tom Tom.Koenig at actewagl.com.au
Mon Oct 19 17:49:42 AKDT 2009


Hi all,

Just a little topic diverter, for all us 'oilers'.

Some background. Generally in Aus, most people mix their own fuel as it is simply too cost prohibitive to use pre-mix. 99.9% use the Coolpower oils. We have the three types available; Blue (SV), Red (LV) and Purple(MV).

I have just rebuilt 3 different YS motors,all running on different oils. Nitro content is 25-30% depending on motor and application, Nitro brand is VP. The  methanol was Spectro C analysed for purity and water content ( perfect results)

I have found: ( your mileage may vary <VBG>)

The LV oil produces marginally ( empirically tested) power, however significant corrosion and wear was found in the motors using this oil. Cam was badly worn also.

The standard Blue oil motor had by far the least wear, virtually no corrosion and only small expected, standard wear ( liner, bearing play and ring gaps. Cam was perfect)

The MV oil, which as expected, was somewhere in between the two.

Conclusion for my own future use:

I will cease to use the Heli oil in my motors as of now, unless I need to milk a motor for every last bit of power OR if I am happy to rebuild more often.

The MV does seem like a good compromise, but I'm happy with the Blue oil. Its the original, and in my opinion only, still the best general performing oils of all.

Also-IF any of you are actually still using the YS, here are a few other tips. I have two brand new 170's-one CDI and one Glow. Both motors had virtually NO oil in the cam area out of the box. I would recommend that you open the cam cover and squirt it full of oil before you start these for the first time. I feel it helps and may just prevent undue cam wear.

I always strip, rework and Ultra sonically clean my motors before I run them-so I do this anyway, but for those that don't want to go to these extents-The oiling of the cam is easily done.
Another little tip-lap the valves in. I just use one of those eraser tipped pencils, cyno'd to the valve, and then spin the pencil with some fine valve grinding paste on the seat. This works a treat, every time.( obviously, disassemble the head first)

Now feel free to practice those snaps that we talked about ,with that little powerhouse of an engine <G>

Tom




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