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<div><font face="Arial" size="2"><span class="586021501-20102009">Hi all,</span></font></div>
<div><font face="Arial" size="2"><span class="586021501-20102009"></span></font> </div>
<div><font face="Arial" size="2"><span class="586021501-20102009">Just a little topic diverter, for all us 'oilers'.</span></font></div>
<div><font face="Arial" size="2"><span class="586021501-20102009"></span></font> </div>
<div><font face="Arial" size="2"><span class="586021501-20102009">Some background. Generally in Aus, most people mix their own fuel as it is simply too cost prohibitive to use pre-mix. 99.9% use the Coolpower oils. We have the three types available; Blue (SV),
Red (LV) and Purple(MV).</span></font></div>
<div><font face="Arial" size="2"><span class="586021501-20102009"></span></font> </div>
<div><font face="Arial" size="2"><span class="586021501-20102009">I have just rebuilt 3 different YS motors,all running on different oils. Nitro content is 25-30% depending on motor and application, Nitro brand is VP. The methanol was Spectro C analysed for
purity and water content ( perfect results)</span></font></div>
<div><font face="Arial" size="2"><span class="586021501-20102009"></span></font> </div>
<div><font face="Arial" size="2"><span class="586021501-20102009">I have found: ( your mileage may vary <VBG>)</span></font></div>
<div><font face="Arial" size="2"><span class="586021501-20102009"></span></font> </div>
<div><font face="Arial" size="2"><span class="586021501-20102009">The LV oil produces marginally ( empirically tested) power, however significant corrosion and wear was found in the motors using this oil. Cam was badly worn also.</span></font></div>
<div><font face="Arial" size="2"><span class="586021501-20102009"></span></font> </div>
<div><font face="Arial" size="2"><span class="586021501-20102009">The standard Blue oil motor had by far the least wear, virtually no corrosion and only small expected, standard wear ( liner, bearing play and ring gaps. Cam was perfect)</span></font></div>
<div><font face="Arial" size="2"><span class="586021501-20102009"></span></font> </div>
<div><font face="Arial" size="2"><span class="586021501-20102009">The MV oil, which as expected, was somewhere in between the two.</span></font></div>
<div><font face="Arial" size="2"><span class="586021501-20102009"></span></font> </div>
<div><font face="Arial" size="2"><span class="586021501-20102009">Conclusion for my own future use:</span></font></div>
<div><font face="Arial" size="2"><span class="586021501-20102009"></span></font> </div>
<div><font face="Arial" size="2"><span class="586021501-20102009">I will cease to use the Heli oil in my motors as of now, unless I need to milk a motor for every last bit of power OR if I am happy to rebuild more often.</span></font></div>
<div><font face="Arial" size="2"><span class="586021501-20102009"></span></font> </div>
<div><font face="Arial" size="2"><span class="586021501-20102009">The MV does seem like a good compromise, but I'm happy with the Blue oil. Its the original, and in my opinion only, still the best general performing oils of all.</span></font></div>
<div><font face="Arial" size="2"><span class="586021501-20102009"></span></font> </div>
<div><font face="Arial" size="2"><span class="586021501-20102009">Also-IF any of you are actually still using the YS, here are a few other tips. I have two brand new 170's-one CDI and one Glow. Both motors had virtually NO oil in the cam area out of the box.
I would recommend that you open the cam cover and squirt it full of oil before you start these for the first time. I feel it helps and may just prevent undue cam wear.</span></font></div>
<div><font face="Arial" size="2"><span class="586021501-20102009"></span></font> </div>
<div><font face="Arial" size="2"><span class="586021501-20102009">I always strip, rework and Ultra sonically clean my motors before I run them-so I do this anyway, but for those that don't want to go to these extents-The oiling of the cam is easily done.</span></font></div>
<div><font face="Arial" size="2"><span class="586021501-20102009">Another little tip-lap the valves in. I just use one of those eraser tipped pencils, cyno'd to the valve, and then spin the pencil with some fine valve grinding paste on the seat. This works
a treat, every time.( obviously, disassemble the head first)</span></font></div>
<div><font face="Arial" size="2"><span class="586021501-20102009"></span></font> </div>
<div><font face="Arial" size="2"><span class="586021501-20102009">Now feel free to practice those snaps that we talked about ,with that little powerhouse of an engine <G></span></font></div>
<div><font face="Arial" size="2"><span class="586021501-20102009"></span></font> </div>
<div><font face="Arial" size="2"><span class="586021501-20102009">Tom</span></font></div>
<div><font face="Arial" size="2"><span class="586021501-20102009"></span></font> </div>
<div><font face="Arial" size="2"><span class="586021501-20102009"></span></font> </div>
<div><font face="Arial" size="2"><span class="586021501-20102009"></span></font> </div>
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