[NSRCA-discussion] YS-160 round 1...ding, ding
THERUPMAN at aol.com
THERUPMAN at aol.com
Sun Jun 1 16:02:59 AKDT 2008
Troy and all,
That's fantastic information. If only I knew what MIG welding is.
BR in Nashville
In a message dated 6/1/2008 6:47:41 P.M. Central Daylight Time,
troy at troynewman.net writes:
Adrian,
Mig Welding might work...I don't know...I always thought that MIG
welding was for aluminum and Steel...like thin sheets or
tubing...Stainless steel sinks and the likes are MIG welded. While I
think MIG welding would work on a Header if you were good enough to do
it, I don't think MIG is what you would use to put the Brass insert back
into an Aluminum casting. The only thing you might be able to do is
create a small mechanical stop as you melted the MIG "wire" over the top
of the brass fitting. The weld would not penetrate down into the joint
between the brass Injector Tube and the Aluminum head. Also MIG is very
critical on having the surfaces clean and dry. It if difficult to get
down in a hole that is about 1/8" diameter and clean it.
I know there are some welder types out there. I'm not a smart guy on
welding. I just know that there are different processes needed when the
metals are different types. If it was Aluminum to Aluminum then I think
MIG would work...but I don't think it's the best for that situation...I
think Mig is used when you are building a Bead on the external surface.
Not trying to get material into a recessed hole. I would think a Sweat
joint like a plumber uses on copper pipe would be a better situation.
The Filler rod or solder or what ever would penetrate the joint down
into the recess and make a mechanical connection down in the hole.
Welding a small bead over the top of the brass nipple with a MIG welder
may hold for a while but I think it would fail in short order...
Sorry just not enough welding info in my brain.
Troy
-----Original Message-----
From: nsrca-discussion-bounces at lists.nsrca.org
[mailto:nsrca-discussion-bounces at lists.nsrca.org] On Behalf Of
adriancwong at earthlink.net
Sent: Sunday, June 01, 2008 4:11 PM
To: General pattern discussion
Subject: Re: [NSRCA-discussion] YS-160 round 1...ding, ding
Oh, no, instead of JB Weld, I mig welded mine, is that OK?
-----Original Message-----
>From: JShulman <jshulman at cfl.rr.com>
>Sent: Jun 1, 2008 6:41 PM
>To: General pattern discussion <nsrca-discussion at lists.nsrca.org>
>Subject: Re: [NSRCA-discussion] YS-160 round 1...ding, ding
>
>Thanks Troy. Noticed that there is no fuel line keeper, so gotta order
>one of those. Motor still runs great with lots of power. The richer low
>end solved the higher issue instantly too, thanks again! I'm hoping
that it only moves cause of the lack of the keeper, so we'll get that on
and go from there. Worst case is eventually we'll plug the line right
into the head.
>
>Regards,
>Jason
>www.jasonshulman.com
>www.shulmanaviation.com
>www.composite-arf.com
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: nsrca-discussion-bounces at lists.nsrca.org
>[mailto:nsrca-discussion-bounces at lists.nsrca.org]On Behalf Of Troy
>Newman
>Sent: Sunday, June 01, 2008 11:32 AM
>To: General pattern discussion
>Subject: Re: [NSRCA-discussion] YS-160 round 1...ding, ding
>
>
>Jason,
>
>Regardless of the peanut galleries comments here is the skinny.
>
>There are two parts...the black plastic check valve....and then the
>Brass Injector that goes into the head. The black plastic part can get
>loose, IF the injector fuel line is allowed to flop around. This is why
>it has a clip on it. Some folks will remove the clip and the fuel
>tubing is allowed to flop. Also some folks seem to thing they can
>remove the black plastic check valve and re-install it. Nope the
>Plastic goes on one time and to remove it the plastic breaks out and
>the hole is not larger from the barb damage.
>
>The idea is to not mess with it.
>
>
>There have been a few cases of mostly early 160's and mostly a couple
>years ago when the brass nozzle came out of the head. I know of 3 of
>these and one was in Japan, one in Australia and one in the USA.
>Extremely rare, but clean it up and yes I have been told JB weld will
>fix it. My understanding is that this nozzle is pressed in with some
>kind of adhesive at the factory. So the JB weld is the same kind of
>thing....You don't have that problem.
>
>If the engine is allowed to hit the cowl of the model sometime the
>black plastic check valve will get knocked around....If it gets loose,
>just remove it and hook the fuel tubing direct to the injector nozzle.
>It will work fine. The check valve is there for long extended idles,
>and quick throttle ups.....Think F-07 Double Avalanche. The check valve
>prevents a burp on throttle up.
>
>
>If you engine is set properly you won't get the burp anyway...but if
>its just a touch lean on the pump...then a tiny air bubble can migrate
>back into the injector fuel line. This is because the valve cover is
>the air box...and is under pressure...so the high pressure keeps the
>fuel from coming out of the injector until the valve on the engine
>opens. When the valve opens the pump gives a squirt and the fuel comes
out.....
>
>At idle the engine is not using much fuel at all....and the injector
>will leak a little fuel into the valve cover area....If the engine is
>too rich (pump)...this is what causes it to get a rough idle. If the
>pump is too lean then there is not enough fuel in the line and the
>pressure in the line is lower so the air box pressure pushes the fuel
>back in the injector line and right at the very end of the in injector
>line forms a little air bubble.
>
>
>The black plastic check valve prevents this from happening.
>
>
>So the long story aside if its flopping around pry it off with a large
>flat blade screw driver, just slowly inch it off...then hook the fuel
>line direct. It will work fine.
>
>By the way the new 170's have a different clip on the injector line
>that keeps the fuel tubing from flopping around. This keeps the black
>plastic from turning and getting loose on the injector nozzle.
>
>
>The peanut gallery can now continue their comments.
>
>Thanks
>Troy Newman
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: nsrca-discussion-bounces at lists.nsrca.org
>[mailto:nsrca-discussion-bounces at lists.nsrca.org] On Behalf Of JShulman
>Sent: Sunday, June 01, 2008 8:06 AM
>To: General pattern discussion
>Subject: Re: [NSRCA-discussion] YS-160 round 1...ding, ding
>
>Oh yea... the check valve. Regs in front... duh. Where do I plug in the
>battery???
>
>I'll check it and make sure I'm just seeing things. We're still
>learning about the new YS's. Maybe it always swiveled and I just now
noticed it.
>
>Regards,
>Jason
>www.jasonshulman.com
>www.shulmanaviation.com
>www.composite-arf.com
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: nsrca-discussion-bounces at lists.nsrca.org
>[mailto:nsrca-discussion-bounces at lists.nsrca.org]On Behalf Of Mike
>Hester
>Sent: Sunday, June 01, 2008 10:35 AM
>To: General pattern discussion
>Subject: Re: [NSRCA-discussion] YS-160 round 1...ding, ding
>
>
>You mean the check valve? It is press fit. It swivels =)
>
>As long as it's not loose, it's fine. Sometimes the fitting comes loose
>from the head where it's just pressed in. If that's the case, JB weld.
>But the black part just presses on to that.
>
>if you mean the part that attaches on to the pushrod tubes, it's just
>plastic and if it's moving excessively, something might have broken.
>
>-Mike
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "JShulman" <jshulman at cfl.rr.com>
>To: "NSRCA" <nsrca-discussion at lists.nsrca.org>
>Sent: Sunday, June 01, 2008 10:12 AM
>Subject: [NSRCA-discussion] YS-160 round 1...ding, ding
>
>
>> Sooooooooooo.... how do we tighten up the regulator (black piece at
>> valve
>> cover) on the top of the motor? It seems that this one has come loose
>> as it will swivel back and forth.
>>
>> BTW Chris... I am still flying electric <G>
>>
>> Regards,
>> Jason
>> www.jasonshulman.com
>> www.shulmanaviation.com
>> www.composite-arf.com
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