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<DIV>Troy and all,</DIV>
<DIV>That's fantastic information. If only I knew what MIG welding is.</DIV>
<DIV>BR in Nashville</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>
<DIV>In a message dated 6/1/2008 6:47:41 P.M. Central Daylight Time,
troy@troynewman.net writes:</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE
style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: blue 2px solid"><FONT
style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" face=Arial color=#000000
size=2>Adrian,<BR><BR>Mig Welding might work...I don't know...I always thought
that MIG<BR>welding was for aluminum and Steel...like thin sheets
or<BR>tubing...Stainless steel sinks and the likes are MIG welded. While
I<BR>think MIG welding would work on a Header if you were good enough to
do<BR>it, I don't think MIG is what you would use to put the Brass insert
back<BR>into an Aluminum casting. The only thing you might be able to do
is<BR>create a small mechanical stop as you melted the MIG "wire" over the
top<BR>of the brass fitting. The weld would not penetrate down into the
joint<BR>between the brass Injector Tube and the Aluminum head. Also MIG is
very<BR>critical on having the surfaces clean and dry. It if difficult to
get<BR>down in a hole that is about 1/8" diameter and clean it.<BR><BR>I know
there are some welder types out there. I'm not a smart guy on<BR>welding. I
just know that there are different processes needed when the<BR>metals are
different types. If it was Aluminum to Aluminum then I think<BR>MIG would
work...but I don't think it's the best for that situation...I<BR>think Mig is
used when you are building a Bead on the external surface.<BR>Not trying to
get material into a recessed hole. I would think a Sweat<BR>joint like a
plumber uses on copper pipe would be a better situation.<BR>The Filler
rod or solder or what ever would penetrate the joint down<BR>into the recess
and make a mechanical connection down in the hole.<BR>Welding a small bead
over the top of the brass nipple with a MIG welder<BR>may hold for a
while but I think it would fail in short order...<BR><BR>Sorry just not enough
welding info in my brain.<BR><BR><BR>Troy<BR><BR><BR>-----Original
Message-----<BR>From:
nsrca-discussion-bounces@lists.nsrca.org<BR>[mailto:nsrca-discussion-bounces@lists.nsrca.org]
On Behalf Of<BR>adriancwong@earthlink.net<BR>Sent: Sunday, June 01, 2008 4:11
PM<BR>To: General pattern discussion<BR>Subject: Re: [NSRCA-discussion] YS-160
round 1...ding, ding<BR><BR>Oh, no, instead of JB Weld, I mig welded mine, is
that OK?<BR><BR>-----Original Message-----<BR>>From: JShulman
<jshulman@cfl.rr.com><BR>>Sent: Jun 1, 2008 6:41 PM<BR>>To:
General pattern discussion
<nsrca-discussion@lists.nsrca.org><BR>>Subject: Re:
[NSRCA-discussion] YS-160 round 1...ding, ding<BR>><BR>>Thanks Troy.
Noticed that there is no fuel line keeper, so gotta order <BR>>one of
those. Motor still runs great with lots of power. The richer
low<BR><BR>>end solved the higher issue instantly too, thanks again! I'm
hoping<BR>that it only moves cause of the lack of the keeper, so we'll get
that on<BR>and go from there. Worst case is eventually we'll plug the line
right<BR>into the
head.<BR>><BR>>Regards,<BR>>Jason<BR>>www.jasonshulman.com<BR>>www.shulmanaviation.com<BR>>www.composite-arf.com<BR>><BR>>-----Original
Message-----<BR>>From: nsrca-discussion-bounces@lists.nsrca.org
<BR>>[mailto:nsrca-discussion-bounces@lists.nsrca.org]On Behalf Of Troy
<BR>>Newman<BR>>Sent: Sunday, June 01, 2008 11:32 AM<BR>>To: General
pattern discussion<BR>>Subject: Re: [NSRCA-discussion] YS-160 round
1...ding, ding<BR>><BR>><BR>>Jason,<BR>><BR>>Regardless of the
peanut galleries comments here is the skinny.<BR>><BR>>There are two
parts...the black plastic check valve....and then the <BR>>Brass Injector
that goes into the head. The black plastic part can get <BR>>loose, IF the
injector fuel line is allowed to flop around. This is why<BR><BR>>it has a
clip on it. Some folks will remove the clip and the fuel <BR>>tubing is
allowed to flop. Also some folks seem to thing they can <BR>>remove the
black plastic check valve and re-install it. Nope the <BR>>Plastic goes on
one time and to remove it the plastic breaks out and <BR>>the hole is not
larger from the barb damage.<BR>><BR>>The idea is to not mess with
it.<BR>><BR>><BR>>There have been a few cases of mostly early
160's and mostly a couple <BR>>years ago when the brass nozzle came out of
the head. I know of 3 of <BR>>these and one was in Japan, one in Australia
and one in the USA.<BR>>Extremely rare, but clean it up and yes I have been
told JB weld will <BR>>fix it. My understanding is that this nozzle is
pressed in with some <BR>>kind of adhesive at the factory. So the JB weld
is the same kind of <BR>>thing....You don't have that
problem.<BR>><BR>>If the engine is allowed to hit the cowl of the model
sometime the <BR>>black plastic check valve will get knocked around....If
it gets loose, <BR>>just remove it and hook the fuel tubing direct to the
injector nozzle. <BR>>It will work fine. The check valve is there for long
extended idles, <BR>>and quick throttle ups.....Think F-07 Double
Avalanche. The check valve<BR><BR>>prevents a burp on throttle
up.<BR>><BR>><BR>>If you engine is set properly you won't get the
burp anyway...but if <BR>>its just a touch lean on the pump...then a
tiny air bubble can migrate<BR><BR>>back into the injector fuel line. This
is because the valve cover is <BR>>the air box...and is under pressure...so
the high pressure keeps the <BR>>fuel from coming out of the injector until
the valve on the engine <BR>>opens. When the valve opens the pump gives a
squirt and the fuel comes<BR>out.....<BR>><BR>>At idle the engine is not
using much fuel at all....and the injector <BR>>will leak a little fuel
into the valve cover area....If the engine is <BR>>too rich (pump)...this
is what causes it to get a rough idle. If the <BR>>pump is too lean then
there is not enough fuel in the line and the <BR>>pressure in the line is
lower so the air box pressure pushes the fuel <BR>>back in the injector
line and right at the very end of the in injector <BR>>line forms a little
air bubble.<BR>><BR>><BR>>The black plastic check valve prevents this
from happening.<BR>><BR>><BR>>So the long story aside if its flopping
around pry it off with a large <BR>>flat blade screw driver, just slowly
inch it off...then hook the fuel <BR>>line direct. It will work
fine.<BR>><BR>>By the way the new 170's have a different clip on the
injector line <BR>>that keeps the fuel tubing from flopping around. This
keeps the black <BR>>plastic from turning and getting loose on the injector
nozzle.<BR>><BR>><BR>>The peanut gallery can now continue their
comments.<BR>><BR>>Thanks<BR>>Troy
Newman<BR>><BR>>-----Original Message-----<BR>>From:
nsrca-discussion-bounces@lists.nsrca.org<BR>>[mailto:nsrca-discussion-bounces@lists.nsrca.org]
On Behalf Of JShulman<BR>>Sent: Sunday, June 01, 2008 8:06 AM<BR>>To:
General pattern discussion<BR>>Subject: Re: [NSRCA-discussion] YS-160 round
1...ding, ding<BR>><BR>>Oh yea... the check valve. Regs in front... duh.
Where do I plug in the<BR><BR>>battery???<BR>><BR>>I'll check it and
make sure I'm just seeing things. We're still <BR>>learning about the new
YS's. Maybe it always swiveled and I just now<BR>noticed
it.<BR>><BR>>Regards,<BR>>Jason<BR>>www.jasonshulman.com<BR>>www.shulmanaviation.com<BR>>www.composite-arf.com<BR>><BR>>-----Original
Message-----<BR>>From:
nsrca-discussion-bounces@lists.nsrca.org<BR>>[mailto:nsrca-discussion-bounces@lists.nsrca.org]On
Behalf Of Mike <BR>>Hester<BR>>Sent: Sunday, June 01, 2008 10:35
AM<BR>>To: General pattern discussion<BR>>Subject: Re:
[NSRCA-discussion] YS-160 round 1...ding, ding<BR>><BR>><BR>>You mean
the check valve? It is press fit. It swivels =)<BR>><BR>>As long as it's
not loose, it's fine. Sometimes the fitting comes loose<BR><BR>>from the
head where it's just pressed in. If that's the case, JB weld.<BR>>But the
black part just presses on to that.<BR>><BR>>if you mean the part that
attaches on to the pushrod tubes, it's just <BR>>plastic and if it's moving
excessively, something might have
broken.<BR>><BR>>-Mike<BR>><BR>>----- Original Message
-----<BR>>From: "JShulman" <jshulman@cfl.rr.com><BR>>To: "NSRCA"
<nsrca-discussion@lists.nsrca.org><BR>>Sent: Sunday, June 01, 2008
10:12 AM<BR>>Subject: [NSRCA-discussion] YS-160 round 1...ding,
ding<BR>><BR>><BR>>> Sooooooooooo.... how do we tighten up the
regulator (black piece at <BR>>> valve<BR>>> cover) on the top of
the motor? It seems that this one has come loose<BR><BR>>> as it will
swivel back and forth.<BR>>><BR>>> BTW Chris... I am still flying
electric <G><BR>>><BR>>> Regards,<BR>>>
Jason<BR>>> www.jasonshulman.com<BR>>>
www.shulmanaviation.com<BR>>> www.composite-arf.com<BR>>> No virus
found in this outgoing message.<BR>>> Checked by AVG.<BR>>>
Version: 7.5.524 / Virus Database: 269.24.4/1476 - Release Date:<BR>>>
5/31/2008<BR>>> 12:25 PM<BR>>><BR>>><BR>>>
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list<BR>NSRCA-discussion@lists.nsrca.org<BR>http://lists.nsrca.org/mailman/listinfo/nsrca-discussion<BR></FONT></BLOCKQUOTE></DIV></FONT><BR><BR><BR><DIV><FONT style="color: black; font: normal 10pt ARIAL, SAN-SERIF;"><HR style="MARGIN-TOP: 10px">Get trade secrets for amazing burgers. <A title="http://food.aol.com/tyler-florence?video=4&?NCID=aolfod00030000000002" href="http://food.aol.com/tyler-florence?video=4&?NCID=aolfod00030000000002" target="_blank">Watch "Cooking with Tyler Florence" on AOL Food</A>.</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>