[NSRCA-discussion] epoxy question
Pattrnflyr at aol.com
Pattrnflyr at aol.com
Tue Nov 27 08:45:00 AKST 2007
West System has quite the web site if you want to know about their products.
Bruce Reins
A Stock Hydro/Runabout
15-R
In a message dated 11/26/2007 9:51:25 P.M. Mountain Standard Time,
Tom.Koenig at actewagl.com.au writes:
Gents and Linda
For laying up work, that is fuselages, cowls etc I use LC3600 Resin. I post
cure at 80 Degrees C for 4 hours. I quite like this resin.
For wings I sand like crazy ( both sides) and seal with dope. Honeycombed
cores. Then I use West 105/207 for skins. Never tried to post cure the wings, I
figured this epoxy would not benefit from it ( i.e I had no data for it..so
I didn't!)
Tom
____________________________________
From: nsrca-discussion-bounces at lists.nsrca.org
[mailto:nsrca-discussion-bounces at lists.nsrca.org] On Behalf Of Lance Van Nostrand
Sent: Tuesday, 27 November 2007 2:48 PM
To: NSRCA Mailing List
Subject: Re: [NSRCA-discussion] epoxy question-I am back
I use the West system all the time but we use custom blends made up by
master Fowler for AeroSlave parts after all our R&D on the process design. West
205 hardener gives about 925 cps and the 207 gives about 750. The thin stuff
Gray is talking about is half that!
--lance
----- Original Message -----
From: _Pattrnflyr at aol.com_ (mailto:Pattrnflyr at aol.com)
To: _nsrca-discussion at lists.nsrca.org_
(mailto:nsrca-discussion at lists.nsrca.org)
Sent: Monday, November 26, 2007 11:20 AM
Subject: Re: [NSRCA-discussion] epoxy question-I am back
I have built several wood racing boats with West System. The 105/205 is for
gluing and the 105/207 is for glassing and is much thinner and easier to
work with. I glue the boat together with 105/205 and then roll on 105/207 for
the final finish and you are done.
Bruce Reins
A Stock Hydro/Runabout
15-R
In a message dated 11/26/2007 8:46:44 A.M. Mountain Standard Time,
lightfoot at sc.rr.com writes:
West’s 105/205 system seems to be a low viscosity epoxy. It is a slow cure
(8 hrs) so if you add solvent it should have plenty of time to evaporate. I
have only used it for sheeting, not glassing – yet.
Jay Marshall
-----Original Message-----
From: nsrca-discussion-bounces at lists.nsrca.org
[mailto:nsrca-discussion-bounces at lists.nsrca.org] On Behalf Of Gray E Fowler
Sent: Monday, November 26, 2007 10:23 AM
To: NSRCA Mailing List
Subject: Re: [NSRCA-discussion] epoxy question-I am back
1. "Thinning the epoxy saves no weight by evaporation. There is virtually
no evaporation and no weight loss-a big time erroneous assumption on my part.
So if you mix 2 ounces of epoxy and add 2 ounces of thinner and put it all
on the airplane, you have added 4 ounces to the airplane. "
After seeing the real question I expected a weight increase of at least 9%
(how much water in the mix). If you put 1oz (by weight) of solvent in 1 oz of
epoxy, and apply it as a coating , thin, you will eventually end up with 1 oz
of epoxy. Mike, your solvent got trapped, and now it will have less
adhesion, less tensile, Compression and flexure strength, and will now shrink slowly
as the alcohol exits the cured epoxy, over a year or so (see Wayne's
answer).
None of the solvent's listed will react with any epoxy blend. Exotherm is
negligible when applied as a thin coating, but significant in mass. The ability
to have the solvent evaporate out of the epoxy coating is directly related
to the mixed viscosity of the neat epoxy blend and the cure rate of the epoxy.
Those of you who ran experiments with 5 minute epoxy reported bad results
because of high viscosity and fast cure rate.The high viscosity (even Mike's
blend is apparently too high) will cause a skin effect where the solvent
evaporates from the surface first, creating a high viscosity skin, then the epoxy
starts to cure increasing viscosity even more, thus trapping the solvent.
Using fiberglass makes this even worse. MIKE- in one year from now your wings
will weigh less.
So it sounds like the the Pattern Dudes of the world need a solution. What
AeroSlave can do is provide a super low viscosity epoxy for sale. This will
be 100% solids (which means NO solvents). Chances are, as a mixed epoxy, the
viscosity will be lower than even blends with some solvent in them. This can
be used to apply fiberglass to wings or as a general laminating resin.
How much interest would there be for such a a product? It would probably
cost about $50/ quart, $25/ pint. It would absolutely require an accurate scale
(+/- 1 gram) to WEIGH the epoxy and hardener into the appropriate mix ratio.
AND I offer no warranty, simply because you guys are the biggest bunch of
experimenters in the world, and I cannot control, nor anticipate how this could
get screwed up.
1. Operator cannot operate a scale.
2. Operator has a crappy scale.
3. Operator added solvent anyway because thats how he has always done
it...since 1976
4. Operators basement is 100% realative humidity..condensation on the wing.
5. Operator added "more" hardener to make it cure faster.
6. Operator......(enter F/U here).
As you can see there is one common theme to all of these possible problems,
Operator, i.e. customer.
So if you are STILL interested please respond and Lance and I will take it
under advisement.
Gray Fowler
Senior Principal Chemical Engineer
Radomes and Specialty Apertures
Technical Staff Composites Engineering
Raytheon
"Dr. Mike Harrison" <drmikedds at sbcglobal.net>
Sent by: nsrca-discussion-bounces at lists.nsrca.org
11/23/2007 01:57 PM
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[NSRCA-discussion] epoxy question
I have read with interest all the comments and some of you have educated me
on this issue. If I may, I will share what I have learned.
1. Thinning the epoxy saves no weight by evaporation. There is virtually
no evaporation and no weight loss-a big time erroneous assumption on my part.
So if you mix 2 ounces of epoxy and add 2 ounces of thinner and put it all
on the airplane, you have added 4 ounces to the airplane.
2. The properties of the epoxy are changed-it becomes rubbery.
3. Changing the properties is not an issue regarding finishing the
airplane(painting)
4. Using thinned epoxy is fine for applying glass cloth.
5. I have tried MEK(epoxy thinner), denatured alcohol, 91%alcohol, acetone.
My preference is denatured alcohol because it is the safest and most
economical, I think. I thought MEK would be the answer. It is the worst of the
bunch.
6. The best way to glass surfaces is to thin the epoxy and apply as
sparingly as possible. A way to do that is to apply and wipe off excess with paper
towels.
7. It is almost exactly 2 ounces to glass a wing panel complete, so 4
ounces for a whole wing. About 2 ounces for a stab. Properly done wings and stab
glassed and painted is 2-2.5 times the weight of monokote.
8. A second thinned coat of epoxy on the glassed wing is .75 ounces each
wing panel-1.5 oz total.
Pick your poison.
Later,
Mike
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