[NSRCA-discussion] [Fwd: Re: Wing Construction]

Sat Nov 10 13:44:31 AKST 2007

Small depressions in the wing, ala golf ball, make for superior flight characteristics

MattK

-----Original Message-----

From: John Gayer 

To: NSRCA Mailing List 

Sent: Sat, Nov 10 12:28 AM

Subject: [NSRCA-discussion] [Fwd: Re: Wing Construction]

I'm having a lot of difficulty getting mail to the list. It doesn't bounce but it doesn't post either. Anyone have any clues?

-------- Original Message -------- 

Subject: 
Re: [NSRCA-discussion] Wing Construction

Date: 
Thu, 08 Nov 2007 23:15:28 -0700

From: 
John Gayer 

To: 
NSRCA Mailing List 

References: 

If you lay a few strands of carbon tows in the epoxy bead on the diamond pattern you drew on the wing, you will end up with a wing that does not need a spar of any kind and is extremely rigid in torsion. That includes torsion resistant ailerons after you cut them out.

John

Woodward, Jim wrote: 

Instead of cutting out the “diamond” shape lightening holes, which can/will produce diamond-shaped depressions or low-points in the wing if too much vacuum is pulled or too much weight is added during the sheeting cure, you could always just draw on an “X” on the sheeting and lay one the glue in the X-pattern.  You get the “weight” savings from the glue, without the negative impact of the honeycoming.

Thanks,

Jim W.

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From: nsrca-discussion-bounces at lists.nsrca.org [mailto:nsrca-discussion-bounces at lists.nsrca.org] On Behalf Of Suart Chale

Sent: Thursday, November 08, 2007 10:36 AM

To: 'NSRCA Mailing List'

Subject: Re: [NSRCA-discussion] Wing Construction

Once you have a diamond shaped template (2) it is actually very quick to cut out the foam with a hot wire.  The templates may take a bit of time to make however.   With a “honeycombed wing” using a syringe to apply the glue in the center of your foam structure is the way to go.  I think I used a 12 gauge agiocath (plastic part of an IV setup).  You can get away with less epoxy and it will certainly adhere as it is in beads much thicker than the squeegeed on version.  I will agree though that you risk soft spots in the structure that may show up or easily be pushed in by heavy hands as there is no foam beneath.  I have done most of my wings the standard way with a thin layer of epoxy over the entire foam surface and have never had that delaminate either so I think it is good enough strength wise.  Personally I do not think I would honeycomb wings again.  I still have a 60 sized Desire with them (built in ’91) so they do hold up but I do not think it is worth the weight savings.  Coring the center may be the better way to fo to remove foam weight.

Stuart

From: nsrca-discussion-bounces at lists.nsrca.org [mailto:nsrca-discussion-bounces at lists.nsrca.org] On Behalf Of Jay Marshall

Sent: Thursday, November 08, 2007 10:07 AM

To: 'NSRCA Mailing List'

Subject: Re: [NSRCA-discussion] Wing Construction

Seems like the fastest way would be with a drill press and cutting out circles rather than diamonds or square?

Jay Marshall 

-----Original Message-----

From: nsrca-discussion-bounces at lists.nsrca.org [mailto:nsrca-discussion-bounces at lists.nsrca.org] On Behalf Of Dave Smith

Sent: Thursday, November 08, 2007 9:57 AM

To: NSRCA Mailing List

Subject: Re: [NSRCA-discussion] Wing Construction

Karl,et al:   Ukie fliers have been coring wings this way for years.

Dave

----- Original Message ----- 

From: Karl G. Mueller 

To: NSRCA Mailing List 

Sent: Thursday, November 08, 2007 10:46 AM

Subject: Re: [NSRCA-discussion] Wing Construction

Mark,

I have found that it is very hard to get more than 1 oz. out of each 

panel on a 2m  pattern wing.

I have seen this method done in Europe a number of years ago.

It is a lot faster, once you have the right setup, than cutting out all 

the little squares or diamond shapes. 

Karl.

----- Original Message ----- 

From: flyintexan 

To: NSRCA Mailing List 

Sent: Wednesday, November 07, 2007 10:30 PM

Subject: Re: [NSRCA-discussion] Wing Construction

I second that motion!  This is a great way to take about an ounce of foam out of each core.

-mark

----- Original Message ----- 

From: Lance Van Nostrand 

To: NSRCA Mailing List 

Sent: Wednesday, November 07, 2007 9:21 PM

Subject: Re: [NSRCA-discussion] Wing Construction

Karl,

My answer might surprise you.  When I have need to core my foam cores I core them from root to tip so the foam surface is in full contact with the skins.  My wings were of interest to several people at the Nats to see how this works, but the local guys are used to my weirdness.  This approach produces a wing with no soft spots on the surface.

--Lance

----- Original Message ----- 

From: Karl G. Mueller 

To: NSRCA Mailing List 

Sent: Wednesday, November 07, 2007 7:53 AM

Subject: Re: [NSRCA-discussion] Wing Construction

Lance,

Do you apply the glue to the skins or to the foam core in case of a

cored (with cut-outs for weight saving) foam core. I thought that the

amount of glue spread on the skins in the areas that do not make 

contact with the foam would be unnecessary weight. It will strengthen

the skin some.

Karl G. Mueller

kgamueller at rogers.com

----- Original Message ----- 

From: Lance Van Nostrand 

To: NSRCA Mailing List 

Sent: Tuesday, November 06, 2007 11:13 PM

Subject: Re: [NSRCA-discussion] Wing Construction

Foam roller, my friend.  a squeegee will force resin into the pores and away from the joint.  Only a roller applied fast and light can meter the material properly and keep in on the surface.

--Lance

----- Original Message ----- 

From: Nat Penton 

To: NSRCA Mailing List 

Sent: Tuesday, November 06, 2007 9:32 PM

Subject: [NSRCA-discussion] Wing Construction

To skin a foam core with contest grade balsa does anyone have a preferred way to determine when the amount of epoxy applied is adequate - using Easy Lam epoxy. I have been reluctant to use a squeegie, afraid of scoring the balsa. Would appreciate any comments.                            Nat

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