[NSRCA-discussion] wing tube sleeve hole

Nat Penton natpenton at centurytel.net
Sat Nov 10 12:29:11 AKST 2007


Karl
Your comments and pictures say it all. Am headed for the flying field ( 5 min drive ) - winds 3 mph, temp 75 deg.

I will provide you some of my procedures later.                                Nat
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Karl G. Mueller 
  To: NSRCA Mailing List 
  Sent: Saturday, November 10, 2007 3:03 PM
  Subject: Re: [NSRCA-discussion] wing tube sleeve hole


  Nat,

  Do the pictures make it more clear of what I was talking about ?
  I am not judging at the Worldchamps this time, because I have been
  to the last 5.  Each time the group of 20 judges has to be made up of
  1/3 from judges that have not judged the immediate prior Worldchamps.
  It's my turn to sit this one out.

  Karl G. Mueller
  kgamueller at rogers.com


    ----- Original Message ----- 
    From: Nat Penton 
    To: NSRCA Mailing List 
    Sent: Saturday, November 10, 2007 1:38 PM
    Subject: Re: [NSRCA-discussion] wing tube sleeve hole


    Thanks Karl. The pictures are nice. 

    Are you in SantaFe ?              Nat
      ----- Original Message ----- 
      From: Karl G. Mueller 
      To: NSRCA Mailing List 
      Sent: Saturday, November 10, 2007 10:38 AM
      Subject: Re: [NSRCA-discussion] wing tube sleeve hole


      Nat,

      First you have to cut a slot thru the foam core at the end of were the tube
      will be. This will serve also as the pocket for the ply tube support. The slot 
      size is 3/4" x 2 1/2". All pockets required are cut before the actual wing core
      itself is cut. I trim up all my foam blocks to the same size before starting to
      cut the actual core itself. Make yourself a new cutting-bow out of a piece of 
      1" x 2" wood and drill holes for the legs (5/32 dia. music wire or 2 old main lg's.)
      Insert these thru the outward pointing holes right up to the coil. Cut to length
      about 5" below coil. You can solder your wire for the current right to the 
      coil.
      Now here is the part that takes a little more work. 
      File or grind small hook shapes at the end of the legs. Make up a cutting wire
      that is when finished about 2" shorter than the distance between the two legs.
      Bend small loops in the cutting wire on both ends. These will hook onto the
      small hooks on the legs. 
      First burn the starter hole with heated 5/32 wire and than insert the cutting wire
      thru this and hook onto the legs of the bow. The coils in the music wire (gear legs)
      will give you the tension required since the cutting wire is about 2" shorter
      then the uncompressed ends of the legs.
      I have been trying to get some pic's attached, but they are too big in size
      to get to the list so I will try to send those direct to you.
      Hope this helps.

      Karl G. Mueller
      kgamueller at rogers.com


        ----- Original Message ----- 
        From: Nat Penton 
        To: NSRCA Mailing List 
        Sent: Friday, November 09, 2007 7:21 PM
        Subject: Re: [NSRCA-discussion] wing tube sleeve hole


        Karl
        At the outboard template position I am having difficulty understanding how there is room for the cutting bow to work. What am I not seeing.         Thanks      Nat
          ----- Original Message ----- 
          From: Karl G. Mueller 
          To: NSRCA Mailing List 
          Sent: Friday, November 09, 2007 10:03 AM
          Subject: Re: [NSRCA-discussion] wing tube sleeve hole


          Lance, 

          I have cut the holes for  the wing tube socket with a hot wire
          and two templates mounted to the work bench at the proper
          height to be on center of where the tube hole should be.
          The socket hole is cut before cutting the core itself.
          You need to make a slot in the core where the end support of the 
          tube is going to be to insert the template that is mounted to the bench.
          I then burn a small hole thru the center of the templates in the
          core with a hot piece of music wire held in a small machine vice
          that is guided along a straight edge. Then I thread the wire for the
          cutting bow thru that hole and start cutting following the two
          templates. Start with a low heat and try the fit. If the fit is too tight
          just increase the voltage a little and go around the templates again
          until you achieve the proper fit. Of course you need a variable power
          supply. Sounds more complicated than it really is. Now when you 
          cut the core, adjust your tip template to get the proper dihedral. Works
          for me.

          Karl G. Mueller
          kgamueller at rogers.com

            ----- Original Message ----- 
            From: Lance Van Nostrand 
            To: NSRCA Mailing List 
            Sent: Thursday, November 08, 2007 10:46 PM
            Subject: Re: [NSRCA-discussion] wing tube sleeve hole


            That's a hard one, Mike.  Both Terry and I use a similar method.  We had a machine shop make a jig for the cutter.  The cutter is a length of 7/8" wing tube with  a ground sharp edge, but the jig to hold it has got to be made presicely.  I used to use a seemingly accurate jig made to the plans provided in a KFactor several years ago, but my results were not good enough.  
            --Lance

              ----- Original Message ----- 
              From: Mike Miller 
              To: nsrca-discussion at lists.nsrca.org 
              Sent: Thursday, November 08, 2007 7:08 PM
              Subject: [NSRCA-discussion] wing tube sleeve hole



              http://www.mackrc.net/patternwings2/index.htm

              http://www.nextcraft.com/foamwingsandparts.html

              Terry Brox's web site on balsa skinned wings is very good and does show the drilling of the servo lead hole with a tube and by hand. 

              Their is some great information on these sites on building foam core wings. But a very important part of a plug in wing would be the wing tube sleeve hole in the core, to be straight and parallel to the desired line centered and at the right angle to set the dihedral. Is there a site that explains or shows the process of set up and drilling of this hole? If this step is not perfect looks to me like the wing is dead no matter how good the skinning process is.
              Thanks in advance

              Mike


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