[NSRCA-discussion] Prop Nut

Sat Feb 3 15:25:02 AKST 2007

Chris:  Thanks for the info.  I looked at the Dubro prop nuts on Tower's website and the tech notes indicate those nuts can be used with a standard starter.....implying they're spinner nuts (i.e., having a cone shape so they can be used with a starter).  I'm looking for something like a plain, standard nut (but very light weight....aluminum or titanium) to use with a 3 1/4" Great Planes spinner.  

Mike
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Chris Moon 
  To: NSRCA Mailing List 
  Sent: Saturday, February 03, 2007 5:49 PM
  Subject: Re: [NSRCA-discussion] Prop Nut

  DuBro makes 8mm prop nuts in 2 diameters

  MKMSG wrote: 
    Might anyone know of a source of either aluminum or titanium M8 x 1.0 nuts for use as a prop nut on a Hacker C50 motor shaft?  

    Mike Moritko
      ----- Original Message ----- 
      From: Rusty 
      To: NSRCA Mailing List 
      Sent: Saturday, February 03, 2007 1:04 PM
      Subject: Re: [NSRCA-discussion] Budd electric mount experience?

      Cameron,

      Thank you for your reply and information.  The spacers that come with the Hacker seem to provide 3/32 - 1/8 of a spinner gap.  I wil use the TP 5300 and I understand some people have trimmed the landing gear rear "stop" to allow the batteries to be moved more rearward...I would prefer not to do this.  I am using an MK tailwheel a tiney heavier...have put the 910 TP rx battery on the tray next to the rudder servo and the RX will be on the fuselage side above the rudder tray.

      How did you  bolt the landing gear?  Did you make little plates to go on the gear to capture blind nuts, nuts and washers on the gear?

      I have a 22 x 12 but will probably like the 20 x 15 (lighter as well for rear CG)?  I have spoken to Mike Wickizer and Brett and will be flying with them in a few weeks in Phoenix.

      Thank you for sending the photos.

      Rusty Dose
      Team Futaba
      Team YS Performance
        ----- Original Message ----- 
        From: Cameron Smith 
        To: 'NSRCA Mailing List' 
        Sent: Saturday, February 03, 2007 9:25 AM
        Subject: Re: [NSRCA-discussion] Budd electric mount experience?

        I will shoot you some pics this P.M.

         It's Minimal IF you use the low profile screws that come with the mount. I did NOT countersink the screws in the fuse. You could do this with a little extra work.

        I made 4 lite ply shims & positioned them between the fuse & the mount. I personally believe the nose of MY Beryll needs a little Carbon reinforcement due to the torque/Twist I am observing during run-up. I had hoped to run a Hatch latch on the Canopy & NOT use the 2 Screws that hold down the Canopy But have discovered bolting the Canopy down does add some rigidity  to the nose.

         The front formers on the gear block  Did not stay secured at the top of the fuse. (NO HARD LANDINGS) I have trimmed those down about half way to the gear block.

         I think the recommended CG is CORRECT & the wing the wing needs about .3 positive. 0 on the stab.

        -----Original Message-----
        From: nsrca-discussion-bounces at lists.nsrca.org [mailto:nsrca-discussion-bounces at lists.nsrca.org] On Behalf Of Rusty
        Sent: Friday, February 02, 2007 9:36 PM
        To: NSRCA Mailing List
        Subject: [NSRCA-discussion] Budd electric mount experience?

        NSRCA List Subscribers,

        I am putting the final touches on my Beryll and would like to know the spinner gap any of you have used when setting up the Jerry Budd e-mount?

        Any information is much appreciated.

        Rusty Dose

        Team Futaba

        Team YS Performance

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