[NSRCA-discussion] Prop Nut

[Chris Moon]

DuBro makes 8mm prop nuts in 2 diameters

MKMSG wrote:
> Might anyone know of a source of either aluminum or titanium M8 x 1.0 
> nuts for use as a prop nut on a Hacker C50 motor shaft? 
>  
> Mike Moritko
>
>     ----- Original Message -----
>     *From:* Rusty <mailto:rdose at wi.rr.com>
>     *To:* NSRCA Mailing List <mailto:nsrca-discussion at lists.nsrca.org>
>     *Sent:* Saturday, February 03, 2007 1:04 PM
>     *Subject:* Re: [NSRCA-discussion] Budd electric mount experience?
>
>     Cameron,
>      
>     Thank you for your reply and information.  The spacers that come
>     with the Hacker seem to provide 3/32 - 1/8 of a spinner gap.  I
>     wil use the TP 5300 and I understand some people have trimmed the
>     landing gear rear "stop" to allow the batteries to be moved more
>     rearward...I would prefer not to do this.  I am using an MK
>     tailwheel a tiney heavier...have put the 910 TP rx battery on the
>     tray next to the rudder servo and the RX will be on the fuselage
>     side above the rudder tray.
>      
>     How did you  bolt the landing gear?  Did you make little plates to
>     go on the gear to capture blind nuts, nuts and washers on the gear?
>      
>     I have a 22 x 12 but will probably like the 20 x 15 (lighter as
>     well for rear CG)?  I have spoken to Mike Wickizer and Brett and
>     will be flying with them in a few weeks in Phoenix.
>      
>     Thank you for sending the photos.
>      
>      
>     Rusty Dose
>     Team Futaba
>     Team YS Performance
>
>         ----- Original Message -----
>         *From:* Cameron Smith <mailto:dentdoc007 at adelphia.net>
>         *To:* 'NSRCA Mailing List'
>         <mailto:nsrca-discussion at lists.nsrca.org>
>         *Sent:* Saturday, February 03, 2007 9:25 AM
>         *Subject:* Re: [NSRCA-discussion] Budd electric mount experience?
>
>         I will shoot you some pics this P.M.
>
>          
>
>          It's Minimal IF you use the low profile screws that come with
>         the mount. I did NOT countersink the screws in the fuse. You
>         could do this with a little extra work.
>
>          
>
>         I made 4 lite ply shims & positioned them between the fuse &
>         the mount. I personally believe the nose of MY Beryll needs a
>         little Carbon reinforcement due to the torque/Twist I am
>         observing during run-up. I had hoped to run a Hatch latch on
>         the Canopy & NOT use the 2 Screws that hold down the Canopy
>         But have discovered bolting the Canopy down does add some
>         rigidity  to the nose.
>
>          
>
>          The front formers on the gear block  Did not stay secured at
>         the top of the fuse. (NO HARD LANDINGS) I have trimmed those
>         down about half way to the gear block.
>
>          
>
>          I think the recommended CG is CORRECT & the wing the wing
>         needs about .3 positive. 0 on the stab.
>
>          
>
>                        
>
>          
>
>         -----Original Message-----
>         *From:* nsrca-discussion-bounces at lists.nsrca.org
>         [mailto:nsrca-discussion-bounces at lists.nsrca.org] *On Behalf
>         Of *Rusty
>         *Sent:* Friday, February 02, 2007 9:36 PM
>         *To:* NSRCA Mailing List
>         *Subject:* [NSRCA-discussion] Budd electric mount experience?
>
>          
>
>         NSRCA List Subscribers,
>
>          
>
>         I am putting the final touches on my Beryll and would like to
>         know the spinner gap any of you have used when setting up the
>         Jerry Budd e-mount?
>
>          
>
>         Any information is much appreciated.
>
>          
>
>          
>
>         Rusty Dose
>
>         Team Futaba
>
>         Team YS Performance
>
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