[NSRCA-discussion] Hacker gearbox

Steven Maxwell patternrules at earthlink.net
Tue May 30 20:42:51 AKDT 2006


 Verne have you looked for sealed bearing for the Hacker, I think you have
a good idea if we could find the sealed bearing needed to keep the oil in.

Steven Maxwell
 
 


> [Original Message]
> From: Verne Koester <verne at twmi.rr.com>
> To: NSRCA Mailing List <nsrca-discussion at lists.nsrca.org>
> Date: 5/31/2006 12:24:04 AM
> Subject: Re: [NSRCA-discussion] Hacker gearbox
>
> Never saw any fuzzies from the pipe cleaners, but then, the ones I had 
> laying around were at least twenty years old. OTOH, my eyes are
fifty-three 
> so I may have missed them anyway. After I've cleaned everything out, I
blow 
> it all out real good with my air compressor because I DO see little bits
of 
> paper towel here and there.
>
> There's a big difference between the needle bearings in the planetaries
and 
> the sealed bearings that the shaft runs in. We WANT to remove the old
grease 
> in the planetaries. If we remove the grease in the sealed bearings,
there's 
> no practical way to replace it. Personally, I wish the whole system was
as 
> tight as our glow motors, because then we could run 90-weight gear oil
and 
> not have anything to worry about for the whole season.
>
> Verne
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Keith Black" <tkeithb at comcast.net>
> To: "NSRCA Mailing List" <nsrca-discussion at lists.nsrca.org>
> Sent: Tuesday, May 30, 2006 10:35 PM
> Subject: Re: [NSRCA-discussion] Hacker gearbox
>
>
> > Verne, as you point out the degreaser probably is not a problem with the
> > three small gears with the roller bearings.
> >
> > The other comment I have, after doing the regreasing last night, is
that 
> > the
> > pipe cleaners tend to leave little fuzzies all over the place. They do 
> > work
> > extremely well, but I had a lot of trouble getting everything fuzz
free. I
> > think the toothbrush sounds like a much better idea.
> >
> > I was also surprised that the Comp. instructions suggested Kleenex since
> > they will certainly leave behind lots of small fuzz. I think the ideal 
> > thing
> > may be lens cleaners for glasses (the non-wetted type). Because these
done
> > leave fuzz behind.
> >
> > Keith Black
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message ----- 
> > From: "Verne Koester" <verne at twmi.rr.com>
> > To: "NSRCA Mailing List" <nsrca-discussion at lists.nsrca.org>
> > Sent: Tuesday, May 30, 2006 4:00 PM
> > Subject: Re: [NSRCA-discussion] Hacker gearbox
> >
> >
> >> When the C50 first came out, there were no directions available. The
> >> directions you're seeing come from the competition version which has
only
> >> recently been available to those of us possessing normal flying skills.
> >>
> >> I still use wax and grease remover to clean out the old grease from the
> >> planetaries once they've been taken out of the gearbox. I now use paper
> >> towels, pipe cleaners, and old toothbrushes for everything else.
Doesn't
> >> clean as good as the liquid, but at least nothing harmful is getting
into
> >> the sealed bearings. The planetaries are entirely different as you
know.
> >> They have unsealed needle bearing and need a thorough cleaning and
> >> repacking.
> >>
> >> Verne
> >>
> >>
> >> ----- Original Message ----- 
> >> From: "Keith Black" <tkeithb at comcast.net>
> >> To: "NSRCA Mailing List" <nsrca-discussion at lists.nsrca.org>
> >> Sent: Tuesday, May 30, 2006 12:36 AM
> >> Subject: Re: [NSRCA-discussion] Hacker gearbox
> >>
> >>
> >> > Verne, looking back over your earlier message and the Hacker
directions
> >> > for
> >> > the Comp motor I'm a bit surprised you use the PPG wax and grease
> > remover.
> >> > The directions say "Don't use chemical cleaners! These will destroy
the
> >> > grease in the ball bearings of the output shaft!"
> >> >
> >> > Did you hear from Hacker that it would be safe to use the PPG 
> >> > degreaser,
> >> > prior experience, etc.?
> >> >
> >> > Please elaborate.
> >> >
> >> > Thanks,
> >> > Keith Black
> >> >
> >> > ----- Original Message ----- 
> >> > From: "Verne Koester" <verne at twmi.rr.com>
> >> > To: "NSRCA Mailing List" <nsrca-discussion at lists.nsrca.org>
> >> > Sent: Monday, May 29, 2006 10:32 PM
> >> > Subject: Re: [NSRCA-discussion] Hacker gearbox
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >> Keith,
> >> >> Our experience is that you don't need loctite as long as you use a
> > strap
> >> >> wrench to tighten the gear box and get good torque on the set
screws.
> >> >> Loctite on the threads of the gear box to motor make it a bear to
get
> > off
> >> >> again. I helped Andrew grease the gearbox on his standard C50 last
> > summer
> >> > 4
> >> >> or 5 times and we never used loctite and it never showed any signs
of
> >> >> loosening up. Of course, if your gear box spins itself off the
motor,
> > I'm
> >> >> just gonna say you didn't get it tight enough.....   ;>)
> >> >>
> >> >> Verne
> >> >>
> >> >>
> >> >> ----- Original Message ----- 
> >> >> From: "Keith Black" <tkeithb at comcast.net>
> >> >> To: "NSRCA Mailing List" <nsrca-discussion at lists.nsrca.org>
> >> >> Sent: Monday, May 29, 2006 11:12 PM
> >> >> Subject: Re: [NSRCA-discussion] Hacker gearbox
> >> >>
> >> >>
> >> >> > I'm in the process of doing a Lube Job to my C50 Standard Hacker.
Is
> >> >> > loctite
> >> >> > required when putting the STD C50 back together (I assume it is 
> >> >> > based
> >> >> > on
> >> >> > comments in Verne's post)?
> >> >> >
> >> >> > If so, where is the loctite used, threads on gearbox or threads on
> > set
> >> >> > screws?
> >> >> >
> >> >> > What loctite is used? 222 (low-strength) or medium?
> >> >> >
> >> >> > Thanks,
> >> >> > Keith Black
> >> >> >
> >> >> > ----- Original Message ----- 
> >> >> > From: "Verne Koester" <verne at twmi.rr.com>
> >> >> > To: "NSRCA Mailing List" <nsrca-discussion at lists.nsrca.org>
> >> >> > Sent: Sunday, May 21, 2006 12:20 PM
> >> >> > Subject: Re: [NSRCA-discussion] Hacker gearbox
> >> >> >
> >> >> >
> >> >> >> Stuart,
> >> >> >> The separate washer is unique to the comp motor. BTW, the gears
and
> >> >> >> all
> >> >> > the
> >> >> >> stuff inside is the same. The biggest advantage to the comp
motor 
> >> >> >> is
> >> > the
> >> >> >> brake built in to the controller and the fan between the gearbox 
> >> >> >> and
> >> > the
> >> >> >> motor the blows air through the windings. There's no power
> >> >> >> differences.
> >> >> >>
> >> >> >> Back to yours. Without knowing what grease the previous owner
used,
> >> > it's
> >> >> >> nearly impossible to analyze it. Looking at your photo, the
grease
> >> >> >> appears
> >> >> >> wet and shiny which is good. When it turns into a dull,
metal-laden
> >> >> >> paste,
> >> >> >> bad things happen. I suspect you're going to see some darkness
> >> > regardless
> >> >> > of
> >> >> >> the grease, at least until the gears wear in.  I'd suggest 
> >> >> >> following
> >> > the
> >> >> >> directions you downloaded which I'm assuming came from the comp
> >> > version.
> >> >> >> Clean all the existing grease out and make sure you don't lose
the
> >> > little
> >> >> >> bitty washers under each of the three planetary gears.
> >> >> >>
> >> >> >> If you take the shaft out, make sure to keep track of those
washers
> > as
> >> >> > well.
> >> >> >> There's three of them and each one is different and needs to be
in
> > the
> >> >> > right
> >> >> >> place.
> >> >> >>
> >> >> >> BTW, using a syringe and your finger to pack the bearing in the
> >> >> > planetaries
> >> >> >> as suggested in the comp directions works really well. The
pressure
> >> >> > created
> >> >> >> by that technique forces lube in behind the needles in those
little
> >> >> >> bearings. I use PPG wax and grease remover and a pipe cleaner to
> > clean
> >> >> >> the
> >> >> >> planetaries and bearings prior to repacking them.
> >> >> >>
> >> >> >> Finally, make sure the planetaries are placed back in as
described
> > in
> >> > the
> >> >> >> instructions. One end has a bevel ground in and it needs to be
> >> >> >> oriented
> >> >> >> properly. The bevel is on the side where printing is stamped into
> > the
> >> >> >> face
> >> >> >> of the needle bearings and is the side you see in your attached
> > photo.
> >> >> >>
> >> >> >> Hope this helps.
> >> >> >> Verne
> >> >> >>
> >> >> >>
> >> >> >> ----- Original Message ----- 
> >> >> >> From: "Stuart Chale" <schale at optonline.net>
> >> >> >> To: "'NSRCA Mailing List'" <nsrca-discussion at lists.nsrca.org>
> >> >> >> Sent: Sunday, May 21, 2006 8:42 AM
> >> >> >> Subject: Re: [NSRCA-discussion] Hacker gearbox
> >> >> >>
> >> >> >>
> >> >> >> > Now for the question.
> >> >> >> >
> >> >> >> > Attached is a picture of my motor open.  Standard C50 not the 
> >> >> >> > Comp
> >> >> >> > version.
> >> >> >> > The washer over the planetary gears is different from the 
> >> >> >> > pictures
> >> >> >> > in
> >> >> > the
> >> >> >> > re-greasing directions.  There is a washer press fit into the
> > cover
> >> >> >> > that
> >> >> >> > is
> >> >> >> > not as large as the one pictured in the directions.  For those
of
> >> >> >> > you
> >> >> > who
> >> >> >> > have opened your motors, is this normal or am I missing the 
> >> >> >> > larger
> >> >> > washer?
> >> >> >> >
> >> >> >> >>From the pictures it appears that the grease is white.  Was any
> >> > version
> >> >> > of
> >> >> >> > it dark?  Or does it get dark after running?  The grease in my
> > motor
> >> > is
> >> >> >> > pretty dark. The motor was bought second hand supposedly un-run
> > but
> >> >> >> > I
> >> >> > get
> >> >> >> > the feeling that is not the case.
> >> >> >> >
> >> >> >> > Thanks,
> >> >> >> > Stuart
> >> >> >> >
> >> >> >>
> >> >> >>
> >> >>
> >>
> >>>>
------------------------------------------------------------------------
> > -
> >> > -
> >> >> > ------
> >> >> >>
> >> >> >>
> >> >> >> > _______________________________________________
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> >> >> >>
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