[NSRCA-discussion] OS140RX needle valve extension

[Verne Koester]

Scott,
I faced the same dilemma on my Smaragd. I drilled the end of the needle so 
it would accept a 4-40 socket head bolt and then cut off the 4-40 so it only 
had about an 1/8 inch of threads. Then I used the setscrew near the end of 
the needle to hold the 4-40. Next step is to drill a hole in the side of the 
fuse so you can insert the ball-driver you'll use to adjust the needle. The 
hot tip there is to make the hole large enough to accept a rubber grommet so 
you don't chip the paint with the ball driver. I found it difficult at times 
to locate the needle with the ball driver, particularly with the engine 
running. The cure for that was to put a small piece of fuel tubing over the 
end of the needle and 4-40 socket. It acts as a guide for the ball-driver 
and helps hold it in place with the engine running. It goes without saying 
that the hole in the side of the cowl needs to be aligned pretty close with 
the needle. This setup has worked really well for me over the last three 
years on two Smaragds.

Verne


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Scott Smith" <js.smith at verizon.net>
To: "NSRCA Mailing List" <nsrca-discussion at lists.nsrca.org>
Sent: Sunday, May 14, 2006 8:15 AM
Subject: [NSRCA-discussion] OS140RX needle valve extension


>
> I'm installing this engine in a Brio where a 2.5" needle valve extension
> (plus the required opening) is something I'd rather avoid.  Anybody have
> experience with cutting the needle valve body off the back plate and
> installing it to the airframe?  (engine is out of warranty)
>
> Any other ideas?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Scott
>
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