[NSRCA-discussion] An education in balsa usage for pattern

Bob Richards bob at toprudder.com
Tue Mar 28 16:10:46 AKST 2006


Mike,
   
  Great info. As for having wood handpicked, try SIG. I don't know about now, but years ago when I was producing kits, SIG had the best wood that I tried. Bud Nosen was a very close second, and Balsa USA came in a very distant last place.  The last time I bought wood from Balsa USA, I could only use about half of it, some of it seemed as if it were still green. But, like I said, that was years ago and I have no idea of the quality from these companies today.
   
  As you mentioned, if light wood is important, it is always better to rip what you need from thick stock. Most of the really light wood goes into blocks and thicker sheets, and the heaviest density goes into sticks.
   
  FWIW,
  http://www.sigmfg.com/cgi-bin/dpsmart.exe/MainMenuFV4.html?E+Sig
   
  Bob R.

Mike Hester <kerlock at comcast.net> wrote:
    In general, for sheeting you want A-grain. For stronger/stiffer stuff, you want C-grain. A bends easily across the sheet, C is stiffer.
   
  Wood reinforced strategically with carbon and a couple of odd composite parts make for an extremely light, strong and great lasting airframe. 
   
  BTW when you order it, don't be afraid to have it hand picked. Order more than you need, and weigh each and every sheet. use the best. there's sometimes a fee for hand picking, but you have some accountability if it's boat lumber.
   
  -Mike
   
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