[NSRCA-discussion] monokote
Lynn Burks
rclen123 at adelphia.net
Wed Mar 22 21:08:00 AKST 2006
Hello Dave: Ill be making a treck too Muncie this year and would like to stop in Tulsa for a few practice flights if possible. What fields are available to do this. Lynn and Ralph Depalma
----- Original Message -----
From: Dave Harmon
To: 'NSRCA Mailing List' ; geobet at gis.net
Sent: Wednesday, March 22, 2006 5:38 PM
Subject: Re: [NSRCA-discussion] monokote
Pete..that's exactly what happened to me over 2 years ago...I was pretty disappointed to say the least!
Regards
Dave Harmon
NSRCA 586
K6XYZ[at]valornet[dot]com
Broken Arrow, Ok.
-----Original Message-----
From: nsrca-discussion-bounces at lists.nsrca.org [mailto:nsrca-discussion-bounces at lists.nsrca.org] On Behalf Of Pete Cosky
Sent: Wednesday, March 22, 2006 1:59 PM
To: geobet at gis.net; NSRCA Mailing List
Subject: [NSRCA-discussion] monokote
George,
I though it was just me until I came across this on RCU http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=3981146
I have a 25% Extra that has all the white wrinkled horribly. I'm not great at covering and usually have a friend of mine do the nice planes for me, but I have never had covering this bad even when I was 11 and getting started in this hobby.
The above link is goes to the retort by Hobbico customer service.
----- Original Message -----
From: George Kennie
To: NSRCA Mailing List
Sent: Wednesday, March 22, 2006 2:39
Subject: Re: [NSRCA-discussion] Motor Mount Bonding
Speaking of Monokote!,............I noticed some irregularities a couple of planes back, but couldn't really put my finger on anything specific, thinking it was probably some oversight in my application technique (too little heat, too much heat?). Then I built an Exceleron and decided to do a little trim scheme on the wheel pants using Monokote as the trimming agent, which I had done many times in the past (and I stress MANY).I used regular Monokote, (not the Trim Strip variety) and cut out my design and ironed it on and it appeared to be O.K. I set the plane aside and came back a couple of days later only to find all of the trimming designs lying on the floor beside the wheel pants.
I have had several instances since then where I had similar results trying to get the stuff to adhere to any painted surface.
I just completed a small bird that I costructed quite lightly with the nose of the aircraft being planked and everything from the T.E. back being open structure.Due to the fact that I made the canopy out of glass I decided to paint the forward part of the fuse and film the aft portion. Everything went pretty much O.K. until I got to the point of trimming. In the areas where the trim was applied over MonoKote it seemed to be normal, but when the trim was applied to the painted portion of the fuse I had difficulty making the stuff stick, and indeed, I have re-ironed it down about 6 or 8 times since it's original application. I have been toying with the idea of maybe trying to use some Balsarite under the trim to see if I can get it to stick to the paint, but have some apprehension about whether the Balsarite might raise havoc with the paint (Concept).
The other thing that I've noticed is that it is now much easier to lift Monokote film that you have previously applied by using a little heat and the stuff comes up easily. In the old days, if you tried to lift the stuff the color would be left behind and you would have transparrent cellophane on your hands.
At the Wram's Show, I picked up a Quest from Eric and I noticed that the covering material being used by this manufacturer is different than either Mono or Ultra in that it appears to have a weave structure in the backing. Almost looks like Coverite if you look at the backside, but the front side is as glossy as Monokote. It's also quite strong and stretchy if you try to pull it apart. The adhesive appears to be quite strong as well. It is possible to lift it with the application of heat, but it leaves significant color stuck to the underlying surface.It appears, to me, to be a really good quality film, not at all like the old "Chinese Shelf Paper." Maybe Great Planes would be well served to do a little research?
Georgie
mike mueller wrote:
I've recently switched from using El's mounts made in Canada to Budd mounts. The weight savings is 3 oz. over the Hyde type mounts. That's significant in anybody's book. Jerry also has excellent customer service and responds to emails which is refreshing these days. Seems to me that he has takin a totally proactive approach to fix a problem. Now the Monokote people are another story! Mike
jeffghughes at comcast.net wrote:
Seems like a little bit of a low blow, considering Jerry was trying to make things right with his customers.
-------------- Original message --------------
From: "Michael Cohen" <precisionaero at comcast.net>
> Lets see how much traffic this e-mail generates. Oh well, I was bored lately
! > anyway..... :)
>
> Mike Cohen
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Mike Darr"
> To: "NSRCA Discussion"
> Sent: Tuesday, March 21, 2006 5:53 PM
> Subject: [NSRCA-discussion] Motor Mount Bonding
>
>
> > Merle Hyde asked me to post this on the discussion page for him.
> >
> >
> > Subj: Soft Mount Bonding
> >
> > "OH" really - so the adhesive is the final solution!!!! If the rubber
> > won't tear or fail first the bond is not sufficient. I have tested the
> > latest offering and it ca! n also be pulled apart - peels off like a tougher
> > "lemon"!!!! Modelers really "NEED" a mount in a 2-20 thousand dollar
> > aircraft that can and probably will fail!!!!
> >
> > Approximately 40 rubber fabricators have been contacted to mass produce! a
> > reliable rubber bond. They will prototype for $200,000-$300,000 with no
> > guarantees. The genuine Hyde Mount rubber bond is a 4-6 hour direct labor
> > process - with a proven life of over 7000 flights. Upon disassembly of
> > high time genuine Hyde Mounts it appears the bond would likely remain
> > reliable for 14,000 flights or equal to the expected rubber life!!!!
> >
> > Hyde Mounts are so reliable that even the severe cantilever force loads
> > imposed upon the rubber bonding of NO NOSE RING required Hyde Mounts have
> > been proven to endure thousands of flights without pull apart or f! ailure.
> >
> > Some have experienced problems and beam breakage with undrilled nylon
> > composite beam Hyde Mounts offered several years ago. Modelers often did
> > not drill or install blinds nuts per suggestions provided. Hyde Mount
> > n! ylon
> > beams when properly drilled are designed to break at around 100 lbs. force
> > load - or at around 50G's for a 2 lb. engine - aircraft snap at around
> > 15-18
> > Gs. Hyde Mounts now with pre-drilled beams and blind nuts installed have
> > only been reported to break when crashed or impacted. The deliberate 100
> > lbs. force breakage point often prevents more severe damage to the
> > engine/crankshaft/firewall/aircraft/mount.
> >
> > Salvage your hardware investment: Reliable rubber bonding service
> > available for the "do-it-yourself" mount builder or other brands. Simply
> > send your preferred hardware parts and rubber to: Merle Hyde !
> >
> > --------------------------------------------------------------
> >
> > Thanks - Merle
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > NSRCA-discussion mailing list
> > NSRCA-discussion at lists.nsrca.org
> > http://lists.nsrca.org/mailman/listinfo/nsrca-discussion
> >
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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