[NSRCA-discussion] Mixture control needle

colin chariandy cchariandy at yahoo.ca
Wed Jul 19 08:01:32 AKDT 2006


Is the mixture control needle solution a popular one? Any drawbacks?
   
  Colin.

Dean Pappas <d.pappas at kodeos.com> wrote:
      Hi again Col.inn,
  It's not a fancy carb, just the old O.S. mixture control needle.
  I'll spend a few minutes later and find the Tower part #.
  Dean
   
  Dean Pappas 
Sr. Design Engineer 
Kodeos Communications 
111 Corporate Blvd. 
South Plainfield, N.J. 07080 
(908) 222-7817 phone 
(908) 222-2392 fax 
d.pappas at kodeos.com 
    -----Original Message-----
From: nsrca-discussion-bounces at lists.nsrca.org [mailto:nsrca-discussion-bounces at lists.nsrca.org]On Behalf Of colin chariandy
Sent: Tuesday, July 18, 2006 4:52 PM
To: NSRCA Mailing List
Subject: Re: [NSRCA-discussion] Break-in procedure for OS140


  I like the mixture control carb idea but where can I get one? I thought they were no longer available?
   
  Colin.

Dean Pappas <d.pappas at kodeos.com> wrote:
      Hello Colin,
  Yes, the richer idle is necessary to get the engine to settle into a good brake. Your problem is really with the midrange, and tweaking the idle is a band-aid.
  You have three ways to attack, that I can think of.
  1) Add compression. It will help keep the fire lit in the middle. If pinging in the vertical up lines occurs, then abandon this approach quickly.
  2) Hotter plug if possible.
  3) Add an OS mixture control needle valve and drive it with a servo and a curve mix from the throttle. The mix is 0% at both top and bottom,
  and whatever necessary in the middle.I found that working the curve so that the engine is just slightly rich of peak at the middle points works well.
  My highly compressed two-plug OS has the mixture richened in the middle, compared to the metering curve in the carb.
   
  Hope this helps,
  Dean
   
  Dean Pappas 
Sr. Design Engineer 
Kodeos Communications 
111 Corporate Blvd. 
South Plainfield, N.J. 07080 
(908) 222-7817 phone 
(908) 222-2392 fax 
d.pappas at kodeos.com 
    -----Original Message-----
From: nsrca-discussion-bounces at lists.nsrca.org [mailto:nsrca-discussion-bounces at lists.nsrca.org]On Behalf Of rcmaster199 at aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, July 18, 2006 3:15 PM
To: nsrca-discussion at lists.nsrca.org
Subject: Re: [NSRCA-discussion] Break-in procedure for OS140


  Texans, in my experience, are brilliant. They have proven, time and again, Einstein's theory of relativity....by simply doing what comes naturally. Go figure!! (vbg)
   
  Matt
   
 
-----Original Message-----
From: wgalligan at goodsonacura.com
To: nsrca-discussion at lists.nsrca.org
Sent: Tue, 18 Jul 2006 11:03 AM
Subject: Re: [NSRCA-discussion] Break-in procedure for OS140

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  It may APPEAR that we move a little slower here.. in... Texas...   but it just that we have SO much more territory to cover that it just seems like we move slower.  
  Be carefull carpets move slower here due to all the Longhorn droppings. 
   
  Wayno
   
    ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: colin chariandy 
  To: NSRCA Mailing List 
  Sent: Monday, July 17, 2006 2:32 PM
  Subject: Re: [NSRCA-discussion] Break-in procedure for OS140
  

  That big a prop seems unbelievable! How is the noise, speed and acceleration?How critical is the set-up conditions , temperature , humidity etc? 
   
  I do have one and may give it a try.

WAYNE <wgalligan at goodsonacura.com> wrote:
    Yes to lengthening the pipe and then try to trichen it a little and see what happens.  I had mine at about 26.5 inches from the plug with and Aeroslave pipe, low end at about 1'oclock or a little less and turning a 19x10 2-b c.f Mejlik prop.  Cool Power 15%  turning about 7600 rpm.
   
  So electric like it was nice.
   
  Wayne Galligan
   
   
   
   
    ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: colin chariandy 
  To: NSRCA Mailing List 
  Sent: Monday, July 17, 2006 1:06 PM
  Subject: Re: [NSRCA-discussion] Break-in procedure for OS140
  

  I've got a couple gallons through the new engine and I think it's now properly broken in. The mid-range got a bit rich and clears abrutply with a jump in rpm. I leaned the low end a little (from 12 to 1 o'clock position) and the downline braking disappeared. Speed control with this set-up is difficult. With the low end a bit rich speed is inconsistent on the horizontal lines but downlines are good. With the low end a bit lean downlines are too fast but the horizontal lines are good. 
   
  I'm at 26.25" from the plug and turning the 15x11x4 at 8100rpm. 
   
  Is there any benift to lengthening the pipe further? 
   
  Colin.

Ron Lockhart <ronlock at comcast.net> wrote:
    My Aeroslave set up on OS 140 is maybe 1/2 inch longer.
  Works nice, tachs  7,800 on ground on 15.75 x 10 3b.
  Idle setting is very lean-   I keep leaning it till it becomes hard to start, then richen a bit.
   
  Ron Lockhart
    ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Wayne Galligan 
  To: NSRCA Mailing List 
  Sent: Tuesday, June 13, 2006 5:13 PM
  Subject: Re: [NSRCA-discussion] Break-in procedure for OS140
  

  Colin,
   
  What is the length of you setup from the plug to the baffle inside?  If I remember right the baflle is 15" from the inlet.
   
  Mine is at 26" from the plug and I finaLy was able to get a real good down line braking and richen the low end out.  The Aeroslave pipe will make a ton of power in a shorter length but the engine gets peaky and will come on the pipe or really unload.   One thing about this pipe.  If it is burbly rich in the midrange the length is too short.
   
  Wayne Galligan
    ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: colin chariandy 
  To: NSRCA Mailing List 
  Sent: Tuesday, June 13, 2006 11:40 AM
  Subject: Re: [NSRCA-discussion] Break-in procedure for OS140
  

  Worked like a charm!!
   
  The engine ran flawlessly on the first flight after the run-in. I'm using the Aeroslave pipe and 15.5x12 4 blade. I'm about 1 3/4 out with the high end and parallel with the cylinder for the low end screw. All seems OK.... good/slightly rich top end, reliable idle, rich in the middle but accelerates with no problem, good downline braking. When should I start moving the low end screw and where will the final position be ...typically?
   
  Colin.

Mike Hester <kerlock at comcast.net> wrote:
        Correction: Bottom end needle.....1/16 of a turn, not 1/8. The bottom end screw is VERY sensitive.
   
  -Mike
    ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Mike Hester 
  To: NSRCA Mailing List 
  Sent: Tuesday, June 06, 2006 11:42 AM
  Subject: Re: [NSRCA-discussion] Break-in procedure for OS140
  

  I am going to write a full "care and feeding" article for the OS 140 for the July K-Factor, but here's a good start.
   
  First, set your low end screw parallel to the cylinder. 12 o'clock, straight up and down. leave it there for the duration of the break in.
   
  Use an APC 17x10N prop. use an OS F plug.
   
  back the high end needle out 2 full turns. if you plane has a chin cowl, remove it. This engine gets hot for the first run or 2 on the ground.
   
  Crank the engine with a very high idle. Remove the igniter and then advance the throttle to full power after about a minute. It should be spitting rich.
   
  Turn the high end needle until it gets some good RPM but still very rich. You should be putting out some serious smoke. let it run this way for about 5 minutes, no more.
   
  Shut the engine off, and let it cool for about 1/2 hour. the more, the better.
   
  Fill the tank, crank it again, run it to full. This time go in on the needle about 2 clicks and use that for the reference. About every 30-45 seconds, lean it until it goes to max RPM, and not ANY further. Let it run this way for about 5 seconds, and richen it back up. Cycle it this way for about 7 minutes. Shut down the engine, let it cool again.
   
  Crank the 3rd time, and run it at the same setting for about 2 minutes. Now lean it a couple of more clicks, and it should be still putting out some serious smoke, but a little closer to full. Step back, and let it run wide open for a minute, then begin throttling it back and forth every minute or so. Run the tank out like this.
   
  put it together and go fly it. Don't touch the needle. When you get to the bottom of the 1st gallon, go in with the needle ONE click every flight until you get max power. When your low end changes, set the low end (always more lean, but not a whole lot. When you play with that bottom end, a little goes a long way. Like 1/8 of a turn or so.
   
  There are a lot of diffferent ways to do it; some people just set it rich and fly. This way works every time though, and the engines last longer.
   
  have fun,
  -Mike
    ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: colin chariandy 
  To: NSRCA Mailing List 
  Sent: Tuesday, June 06, 2006 10:55 AM
  Subject: [NSRCA-discussion] Break-in procedure for OS140
  

  Just got a new OS140. I have'nt broken in one for 5 years...what's the best/current practice for break-in?
   
  Colin.
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