[NSRCA-discussion] Cooling outrunners

Wed Dec 20 09:30:09 AKST 2006

I just thought of Hanno the Great's Super Sicroly (sp?) at the first TOC.
It looked like it was designed for a spinner but he had a spinner shaped
prop nut instead.  It didn't look bad at 150 meters.

Jim O

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "J.Oddino" <joddino at socal.rr.com>
To: "NSRCA Mailing List" <nsrca-discussion at lists.nsrca.org>
Sent: Wednesday, December 20, 2006 10:18 AM
Subject: Re: [NSRCA-discussion] Cooling outrunners

> I do remember Don's Cutlass.  I thought I'd be the only one old enough.  I
> suspect we'll  see a "new" look on the nose of pattern birds that won't be
> too different from his design.
> I'd like to thank everyone who responded to this topic and I'd like to
pass
> on a link that Don and Chris Atwood sent.  You need to read it a couple of
> times but I concluded the annular opening is probably the most straight
> forward approach.  Using the spinner as a centrifugal pump and pumping air
> out the front and out the prop cutouts is kind of intriguing though.
>
> http://www.djaerotech.com/dj_askjd/dj_questions/turbo_spinner.html
>
> Jim O
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Dean Pappas" <d.pappas at kodeos.com>
> To: <chad at f3acanada.org>; "NSRCA Mailing List"
> <nsrca-discussion at lists.nsrca.org>
> Sent: Wednesday, December 20, 2006 7:13 AM
> Subject: Re: [NSRCA-discussion] Cooling outrunners
>
>
> > Hi again,
> > The annular cooling entry can be done poorly too!
> > Go google the cooling setup on a Hawker Sea Fury. There was a fairing
> behind the
> > spinner to help the air flow inward toward the crankshaft,
> > and the radiators were set far enough aft that there was a decent volume
> plenum in front of them.
> > The Pletty needs a drive washer extension in order to make the annular
> intake work at all,
> > the front of the motor hides too closely behind the spinner backplate.
> >
> > As for the aesthetic issue, who rememebers Doc Coleman's Cutlass
Supreme?
> >
> > later,
> >
> > Dean Pappas
> > Sr. Design Engineer
> > Kodeos Communications
> > 111 Corporate Blvd.
> > South Plainfield, N.J. 07080
> > (908) 222-7817 phone
> > (908) 222-2392 fax
> > d.pappas at kodeos.com
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: nsrca-discussion-bounces at lists.nsrca.org
> > [mailto:nsrca-discussion-bounces at lists.nsrca.org]On Behalf Of Chad
> > Northeast
> > Sent: Wednesday, December 20, 2006 12:29 AM
> > To: NSRCA Mailing List
> > Subject: Re: [NSRCA-discussion] Cooling outrunners
> >
> >
> > We actually asked ZN about producing an add-on piece to do just that on
> > the Twister while at the Worlds in France.  They were concerned about
> > making a composite piece that small strong enough so it never really
> > went past discussion.
> >
> > Dez however, did run a smaller spinner on his motor for a while.  IIRC
> > it made a small difference to the temperature but not enough to overcome
> > the  decreased aesthetics :)
> >
> > The motors are around 2.25" OD, spinners up around 3.25"+, so even
> > dropping down to a 2.75" spinner still provides a lot of blockage to the
> > motor can.
> >
> > Chad
> >
> > Rcmaster199 at aol.com wrote:
> > > One way this could be done is to allow enough annular room around the
> > > spinner, completely bypassing the cheeks and chin. You only need about
> > > 1/8" annular opening. Just use a smaller spinner than needed and
> > > fashion the model nose to recess the spinner slightly into the
annulus.
> > >
> > > I have done that on Temptress (engine powered) with good results.
> > >
> > > Use the cheeks and chin to route air to the bats.
> > >
> > > MattK
> > >
> > > In a message dated 12/19/2006 9:28:10 AM Eastern Standard Time,
> > > bob at toprudder.com writes:
> > >
> > >     */Chad Northeast <chad at f3acanada.org>/* wrote:
> > >
> > >         The problem with a lot of composite fuse models (Twister
> > >         included) is
> > >         that the inlets in the chin and cheeks are often right at the
> > >         rear or
> > >         even behind an outrunner.....so ducting toward them is very
> > >         difficult.
> > >         I have to agree that a proper ducting system is crucial for
> > >         cooling. I
> > >         use a very simple short radius 90 bend in a peice of depron
> > >         that pulls
> > >         air in from the chin, I see about a 20C rise in temp without
> > >         it, other
> > >         than that I dont really do anything special. The motor will
> > >         operate at
> > >         up to 170F without complaining so as long as its 20-30F below
> > >         that all
> > >         is good :)
> > >
> > >         Chad
> > >
> >
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