[SPAM] Re: [SPAM] Re: Moki 180

Grow Pattern pattern4u at comcast.net
Thu Feb 17 10:29:39 AKST 2005


A Campbell's soup can deflector behind the first jug did the trick. Also rotating the first head one set of bolt holes, also moved the hot air away from the second cylinder head.

The HF vibration was another thing however. I watched every nut that was not loctited or wired, just spin right off the plane,. Cowl bolts just jumped out of their threaded blocks. Need a Hyde that did not exist back then.

It's in a big Hawker Hurricane somewhere right now.....

E.
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Bill Glaze 
  To: discussion at nsrca.org 
  Sent: Thursday, February 17, 2005 2:03 PM
  Subject: [SPAM] Re: [SPAM] Re: Moki 180


  Eric:
  Agreed.  I've seen some great results with the Moki twin, if you can keep the rear cylinder cooled.  You apparently managed this.  I can remember the first Giant Scale Air Race at Modesto, Calif. where Bill Hempel flew his Dad's B-26 (as I remember) bomber in the race with twin 3.60 Moki's   Billy ran off and hid from the field; he was just plain superior to the others.  So............they changed the rules for next year.  Hmmmmmmm..............sounds familiar to me! ;-) 
  Bill Glaze

  Grow Pattern wrote:

    I had a Midwest with a Moki 1.8 but wasn't enough power, so I add another 1.8.

    The MOKI 3.6 Twin was awesome.....if a little heavy. Vertical was pure. Roll rate was maintained until out-a-sight going up...I remember having a hard time starting the twin. I recall building monster starters, 24 volts and all that stuff. Then one day I forgot my 2nd ni-starter and tried to start it on one cylinder. Dead easy!, Then I just lit the second cylinder with the one ni-starter.... The pistons were fighting each other as the fired alternately.

    Still needed the tank right up against the wall

    I'd love YS to bring out a 280 opposed twin, like their earlier experiments..still dreaming of sunny weather as well..

    In NJ and cold... Eric.


    ----- Original Message ----- 
      From: Bill Glaze 
      To: discussion at nsrca.org 
      Sent: Thursday, February 17, 2005 1:42 PM
      Subject: [SPAM] Re: Moki 180


      Bob:
      I just don't understand why all this pump/regulator/muffler blocking stuff is necessary.  I've got 3 Mokis and none of them need special treatment.  Bisson muffler, muffler pressure only, (no check valve, nothing but fuel tubing) and a Mesjlik 18-10 prop, and the thing will go up our of sight.  Ask John Ferrell; he was standing alongside me when I said:  "John, hold my beer and watch this!  (Well, actually, you can disregard the beer!  That's just Southern talk.<G>)  One of my conversations with Garrard included a mention of pumps, etc. and he stated to me that "they shouldn't be needed."  In my case, and experience with 3 different engines, (all of which I still own) that has proven to be the case.  One of the most reliable brands I have ever owned.  And they all pull like tractors.

      Bill Glaze

      Bob Kane wrote: 
All this talk of regulators, pumps, sticky O-rings,
rusty bearings . . . . . I don't know how you guys put
up with those two-strokes . . . . I'm glad I have my
YS's . . . . . .    ;)


--- Ed Alt <ed_alt at hotmail.com> wrote:

  Hi John:
Have you ever tried starting the Moki with a light
backwards bump?  The 
engine likes to be wet to do this, but it usually
would start foward for me 
when I did this.  I just gave the spinner a brisk
twist to clockwise and 
that would do it.

Ed

    From: "John Ferrell" <johnferrell at earthlink.net>
Reply-To: discussion at nsrca.org
To: <discussion at nsrca.org>
Subject: Re: Moki 180
Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2005 09:53:29 -0500

I have a MOKI 1.8 in a Midwest Cap (80" span, 14
      pounds). I installed a 
    Perry pump that uses crankcase pressure. Where the
      tank is located makes no 
    difference. I am running Red Max all Synthetic fuel
      with 5-7.5% nitro. I 
    have proven to my satisfaction that Dick Hanson's
      advice that no Pitt's 
    style muffler provides adequate fuel pressure.

The only strange behaviour that I experience is
      that the first start of the 
    day takes a little effort and it wants to run
      backwards for a while. I have 
    noticed others with the same problem without the
      pump. No big deal, I can 
    live with that. The needle NEVER needs adjusting.

I usually use a MAs 18-10 prop because it survives
      ground to prop strikes 
    better than anything else and I seem to have a few
      of them. I don't know if 
    APC even makes this size any more, but the two
      piece with hub version was 
    expensive to fly.

I don't fly it much because it just don't fly like
      a pattern ship!
    John Ferrell
http://DixieNC.US

  ----- Original Message -----
  From: Ron Van Putte
  To: discussion at nsrca.org
  Sent: Wednesday, February 16, 2005 10:14 AM
  Subject: Re: Moki 180



  On Feb 16, 2005, at 8:53 AM, Rcmaster199 at aol.com
      wrote:
        To be honest, if weight wasn't an issue, I
      would use the MOKI 180. I 
    have not used an engine more user friendly or more
      robust than that one, 
    and has power to burn. Piped, propped and mounted
      correctly, it could be 
    made fairly quiet. It was nice to just fuel it,
      prime it, one flip start 
    it, and have it last several seasons without any
      hint of a problem. No 
    bearings, no rods, no rings, or anything else for
      that matter.
      I have virtually no experience with MOKI
      engines, other than to sell 
    fuel to owners and listen to complaints from the
      ones who aren't convinced 
    that MOKIs want/need low % nitro fuel to operate
      properly. Does anyone care 
    to comment which fuel works best in their MOKI?

  Ron Van Putte
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=====
Bob Kane
getterflash at yahoo.com


		
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