Monokote Trim Solvent

[Ed Alt]

Yes, I have to agree this is a really good method.  Works great even for 
pointy stuff like stars, where normally you can not easily get them to stay 
stuck for season after season.  Just be sure to squeegee thoroughly (use a 
business card edge or a piece of poster board etc) and also be sure to wait 
at least 12 hours before applying heat, otherwise, you will get little steam 
bubbles underneath.  Another trick is to use something like Japanese tissue 
paper or even a sheet of TP to iron through with just a trim iron.  Avoids 
scratches, let's you still see what you are doing and never causes unwanted 
re-heating of surrounding Monokote areas.

Ed

>From: "Fletcher, Richard" <Richard.Fletcher at gs.com>
>Reply-To: discussion at nsrca.org
>To: "'discussion at nsrca.org'" <discussion at nsrca.org>
>Subject: RE: Monokote Trim Solvent
>Date: Tue, 7 Dec 2004 14:17:30 -0500
>
>The Windex method is the absolute best way to attach trim colors over a 
>mono
>or ultra covered model. Let's say for this example you want to place a blue
>stripe on the wing about 1" by 6". First cut the blue stripe from monokote.
>Remove the backing. Then spray Windex or a similar product on the finished
>wing, put the blue stripe in place and squeegee out the Windex. Let it dry
>over night. The next day go over the stripe with an iron set at no more 
>then
>200 degrees or else it will bubble. Then use the pip of the iron set at 300
>degrees and seal the edges. Done. There is no method better then this one.
>
>
>
>Rich
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: discussion-request at nsrca.org [mailto:discussion-request at nsrca.org] On
>Behalf Of Larry Diamond
>Sent: Tuesday, December 07, 2004 2:14 PM
>To: discussion at nsrca.org
>Subject: Re: Monokote Trim Solvent
>
>
>Please describe the Windex method...
>
>Also, I'm not the smartest guy on the block here, but what is the best way
>to apply the trim solvent. I'm covering my son's trainer, and probably got 
>a
>bit more detailed than I should have. But it's what he wanted... ;^ )
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: Fletcher, Richard <mailto:Richard.Fletcher at gs.com>
>To: 'geobet at gis.net' <mailto:'geobet at gis.net'>  ; discussion at nsrca.org
><mailto:discussion at nsrca.org>
>Sent: Tuesday, December 07, 2004 1:51 PM
>Subject: RE: Monokote Trim Solvent
>
>For mono over mono, or mono over ultra, use the Windex method. No bubbles,
>ever.
>
>
>
>Rich
>
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: discussion-request at nsrca.org <mailto:discussion-request at nsrca.org>
>[mailto:discussion-request at nsrca.org] On Behalf Of George Kennie
>Sent: Tuesday, December 07, 2004 1:46 PM
>To: discussion at nsrca.org <mailto:discussion at nsrca.org>
>Subject: Re: Monokote Trim Solvent
>
>
>It would appear that Mr.Kababjian is absolutely correct. I just went and
>tried it out.
>With Monokote you get one shot to position things and if you miss by the
>slightest amount you're cooked. The bond is good for eternity.
>On the Ultra the stuff discolors the surface and the bond can be pulled
>apart for quite a significant period of time.
>In my expereience, Ultra over Ultra is way easier than Mono! If you keep 
>one
>end up in the air and work from the opposite end with an iron, it goes down
>with absolutely no bubbles. The same technique can be used with Mono and 
>the
>same results can be achieved, but I can only perform this on a solid
>surface. On open bay wings I cannot get a bubbleless application.
>People have commented "how did you do that without any bubbles?", but I can
>see 'em!!!!
>Georgie
>
>Bob Pastorello wrote:
>
>
>   Anybody know if this works for Ultracote to Ultracote?If so, any 
>'special
>tricks'?
>
>Bob Pastorello
>NSRCA 199  AMA 46373
>rcaerobob at cox.net <mailto:rcaerobob at cox.net>
>www.rcaerobats.net <http://www.rcaerobats.net>
>
>
>


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