Monokote Trim Solvent
Ken Thompson III
mrandmrst at comcast.net
Tue Dec 7 11:29:13 AKST 2004
MessageI ditto Rich, it also gives you a little time to re-position if you are a little off.
Works great.
Ken
----- Original Message -----
From: Fletcher, Richard
To: 'discussion at nsrca.org'
Sent: Tuesday, December 07, 2004 2:17 PM
Subject: RE: Monokote Trim Solvent
The Windex method is the absolute best way to attach trim colors over a mono or ultra covered model. Let's say for this example you want to place a blue stripe on the wing about 1" by 6". First cut the blue stripe from monokote. Remove the backing. Then spray Windex or a similar product on the finished wing, put the blue stripe in place and squeegee out the Windex. Let it dry over night. The next day go over the stripe with an iron set at no more then 200 degrees or else it will bubble. Then use the pip of the iron set at 300 degrees and seal the edges. Done. There is no method better then this one.
Rich
-----Original Message-----
From: discussion-request at nsrca.org [mailto:discussion-request at nsrca.org] On Behalf Of Larry Diamond
Sent: Tuesday, December 07, 2004 2:14 PM
To: discussion at nsrca.org
Subject: Re: Monokote Trim Solvent
Please describe the Windex method...
Also, I'm not the smartest guy on the block here, but what is the best way to apply the trim solvent. I'm covering my son's trainer, and probably got a bit more detailed than I should have. But it's what he wanted... ;^ )
----- Original Message -----
From: Fletcher, Richard
To: 'geobet at gis.net' ; discussion at nsrca.org
Sent: Tuesday, December 07, 2004 1:51 PM
Subject: RE: Monokote Trim Solvent
For mono over mono, or mono over ultra, use the Windex method. No bubbles, ever.
Rich
-----Original Message-----
From: discussion-request at nsrca.org [mailto:discussion-request at nsrca.org] On Behalf Of George Kennie
Sent: Tuesday, December 07, 2004 1:46 PM
To: discussion at nsrca.org
Subject: Re: Monokote Trim Solvent
It would appear that Mr.Kababjian is absolutely correct. I just went and tried it out.
With Monokote you get one shot to position things and if you miss by the slightest amount you're cooked. The bond is good for eternity.
On the Ultra the stuff discolors the surface and the bond can be pulled apart for quite a significant period of time.
In my expereience, Ultra over Ultra is way easier than Mono! If you keep one end up in the air and work from the opposite end with an iron, it goes down with absolutely no bubbles. The same technique can be used with Mono and the same results can be achieved, but I can only perform this on a solid surface. On open bay wings I cannot get a bubbleless application.
People have commented "how did you do that without any bubbles?", but I can see 'em!!!!
Georgie
Bob Pastorello wrote:
Anybody know if this works for Ultracote to Ultracote?If so, any 'special tricks'?
Bob Pastorello
NSRCA 199 AMA 46373
rcaerobob at cox.net
www.rcaerobats.net
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