30 second setup for the YS 140DZ

[don szczur]

Actually, like most things, they develop and refine over time.  I noticed when I changed my YS out (it ran great but after about 24 gallons, its way past when it should normally be serviced) with my backup DZ, I noticed that the backup had a throttle barrell with a small notch, or "v" cut in the front edge of the butterfly.  It acts like an air bleed when the throttle is shut.  Any case, this version of the (carb) runs significantly leaner on the low end. A characteristic of lean low end is a hesitation when advancing the throttle from idle to full.  I screwed the pump in about a half turn IN past flush, from the housing point to bump up the pressure and thus richen the idle so it does not hesitate much.  No difference in the air from the other DZ.  So, the type of carb design may impact the pump position.  The same process used below to adjust though.
  -----Original Message-----
  From: PENNISI Peter <Peter.Pennisi at publicworks.qld.gov.au>
  To: 'discussion at nsrca.org' <discussion at nsrca.org>
  Date: Tuesday, May 13, 2003 9:42 PM
  Subject: RE: 30 second setup for the YS 140DZ


  Don,

  Apologies, I should have read your article more closely, the answer to my question was always there.

  Regards,

  Peter 
    -----Original Message-----
    From: PENNISI Peter [mailto:Peter.Pennisi at publicworks.qld.gov.au]
    Sent: Wednesday, 14 May 2003 11:46 AM
    To: 'discussion at nsrca.org'
    Subject: RE: 30 second setup for the YS 140DZ


    Don,

    Quick question about your pump position. You said 3/4 turn past flush. Is that "IN" past flush or "OUT" past flush.

    Good article

    Regards,

    Peter
      -----Original Message-----
      From: don szczur [mailto:dszczur at maranatha.net]
      Sent: Saturday, 5 April 2003 1:48 PM
      To: discussion at nsrca.org
      Subject: 30 second setup for the YS 140DZ


      Thought I'd offer some quick set-up tips for anyone interested.  If you have an excellent system that works for you, no need to read on.  For those remaining:

      1. Use a good hot glow igniter.  The fuel injection cools the plug more than conventional induction engines.  You'll know if you hear the engine pop, then no fire at all while spinning the prop and running the starter battery (as the engine floods).

      2.  Set up fuel line/filter so its external about 2 inches (the holder can reach over and pinch line if engine gets flooded while starting)  Also the filter external is easy for maintenance and diagnostics (those tiny bubbes from a faulty fuel line).

      3.  Start engine.  Should start easily with a high torque starter.  Start with needle out quite a bit, pump setting varies.  (I have heard the recommendation of just a little recessed; almost flush with screw housings, or, start with factory setting).

      4.  If engine does not idle (loads up an quits after 10 seconds) screw the pump out.  Mine took quite a bit out- about 3/4 turn out from being flush with pump screw housing.

      5. With needle rich (I put mine out 2 1/2 turns)  run full throttle, then reduce back to idle, screw in a quarter turn, run full throttle (you should hear an rpm increase). Keep doing this process til you year that increase, go another 1/4 turn until it does not increase or starts to knock. Then back off an eight to quarter turn.  Note- during each run-up, I'm not running at full throttle for more than about 3 seconds.  Why?  So the engine does not over-heat if going in too far.

      6 Fly.  Great idle on the ground and excellent runs.

      For reference, here are my settings.  Fly JR,  Don

      Engine: YS 140DZ
      Prop: APC 16x12 (keeps prop noise down)
      Pipe; ES- XL (2C pipe)  Less expensive and quiet
      Fuel:  Magnum Heli Pro
      Glow Plug: OS F
      Filter:  YS 
      Tank:  Tetra 18 oz w/bladder
      Needle- about 1 5/8 out.
      Pump- about 3/4 turn past flush.

      Discussion:  The pump (turning it out) makes it pump with less pressure, thus the need to screw out the needle.  The less pressure also results in leaner idle.  Likewise, turning the pump screw in makes the pump (pump more).  Turn it in too much and the fuel line pops off at the injector!  No need for this much pressure.  

      Note on bladder-  first one broke after 10 gallons.  Second one is still going. I now fill tank as normal, but as its getting to the top, pump very slowly so the (balloon) is not too stessed.  Fuel should dribble out, interspersed with bubbles.

      Good flying, Don


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  ***************************** Disclaimer ***************************** The contents of this electronic message and any attachments are intended only for the addressee and may contain privileged or confidential information. They may only be used for the purposes for which they were supplied. If you are not the addressee, you are notified that any transmission, distribution, downloading, printing or photocopying of the contents of this message or attachments is strictly prohibited. The privilege of confidentiality attached to this message and attachments is not waived, lost or destroyed by reason of mistaken delivery to you. If you receive this message in error please notify the sender by return e-mail or telephone. Thank you. 
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