Scoop-Making

[Ron Van Putte]

John Ferrell described a technique for obtaining air inlets/scoops.  It 
looks like fun for people who like new and different adventures in 
modelling.  However, I prefer my technique:  contact Mike or Maureen 
Dunphy at Precision Aero Composites [phone:(662) 462 5480, e-mail 
mdunphy at avsia.com or internet: www.precisionaerocomposites.com] and 
order a set (3) of their Bolly NACA inlets.  I plan to use a set on Tony 
Stillman's new Panacea design, which Mike and Maureen will market and 
will also be using a pair of the Bolly F3A carbon/kevlar wheel pants, 
which they also sell.

Ron Van Putte


John Ferrell wrote:

> If you would like to dabble a bit in a small glass project scoops are 
> an ideal subject. Just about any epoxy will work well. Check out the 
> spoons available in housewares (avoid the kitchen drawers unless you 
> are batchelor or want to be one). You can make the mold using a carved 
> up spoon, play dough, paper mache,wood scraps, balsa or whatver your 
> imagination will provide.  I like to hold the stuff together with hot 
> melt glue.Avoid polyester resin because it will probably get hot 
> enough to melt your mold. If you don't happen to have any suitable 
> glass fabric, scrap from the rag bag, or a handkerchief will 
> do...these are not structural parts. Use some kind of wax for mold 
> release, I like paste floor wax like I use on the table saw. Try to 
> avoid a wax with silicon, it will be very hard to paint otherwise. 
> After waxing, spray with with hair spray.
>  
> If your model is not destroyed taking it out of the mold, you spent 
> too much time on it!
>  
> When you do the lay up, wax the mold at least 3 times, polishing each 
> time. Spray liberally with hair spray. avoid runs, they will require 
> filling in the part. When you start the lay up in the mold first paint 
> it with a thin coat of the epoxy. That will assure a passible finish. 
> It takes longer, but small scraps of cloth are easier to fit in place 
> without wrinkles. try to make the fabric cuts at 45 degrees to the 
> threads, it will conform to the curves easier. 
>  
> You don't have much to lose with this size project!
>  
> Fitting the scoops to the fuse:
> Tape sandpaper to the fuse (smooth side down).
> Rub part carefully against the location to be fitted. 
> John Ferrell
> 6241 Phillippi Rd
> Julian NC 27283
> Phone: (336)685-9606 
> johnferrell at earthlink.net <mailto:johnferrell at earthlink.net>
> Dixie Competition Products
> NSRCA 479 AMA 4190  W8CCW
> "My Competition is Not My Enemy"
>
>     ----- Original Message -----
>     From: Bob Pastorello <mailto:rcaerobob at cox.net>
>     To: NSRCAMail <mailto:discussion at nsrca.org>
>     Sent: Wednesday, July 02, 2003 7:22 AM
>     Subject: Scoop-Making
>
>     Decided I want to use a scoop on my latest for crankcase/bearing
>     cooling.  I know where to locate it on the cowl, but have no idea
>     of shape, angle, if any "ducting" is needed.  It looks like the
>     scoops out there just direct air based on their shape
>     alone...without ducting.
>         Anyone have any suggestions/ideas on this?
>         What to make the scoop out of?
>         And how to determine what size is "right" ?
>      
>     Any insights much appreciated....thanks in advance.
>
>     Bob Pastorello, Oklahoma
>     NSRCA 199, IMAC 1320, AMA 46373
>     rcaerobob at cox.net <mailto:rcaerobob at cox.net>
>     www.rcaerobats.net <http://www.rcaerobats.net>
>      
>      
>

-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: http://lists.f3a.us/pipermail/nsrca-discussion/attachments/20030702/290c7f8e/attachment.html