YS 140DZ!

Tomanek, Wojtek tomanekw at saic-abingdon.com
Thu Apr 24 11:42:44 AKDT 2003


Hi Troy 

Do you set the pump with the high speed needle rich and then once you are
satisfied with the idle (low end) then you go and tune the high speed
needle?  Or it do you set the high end first then go to the pump and then
recalibrate the high end, or it does not matter??

Also, could you elaborate on:
"Yes you can richen the pump...and this will facilitate you leaning the high
end....." 
isn't the high end directly related to the pump pressure, i.e., increase in
pump pressure will richen the high end too, or is this incorrect???


Thank you for your comments and recommendations,
Wojtek



 -----Original Message-----
From: 	Troy Newman [mailto:troy_newman at msn.com] 
Sent:	Thursday, April 24, 2003 12:16 PM
To:	discussion at nsrca.org
Subject:	Re: YS 140DZ fixed!

Peter,

All of the needle valve assemblies are a little different. I just had my old
motors rebuilt and I'm setting at about 1.5 turns open on the high end and
about 1-1.5 turns in from flush on the pump....

My motors are pretty rich still as they have new pats in them like sleeve,
and ring...bearings, cam gear.....The real question is your motor surging
slightly at idle...a low idle like 2000.....Also does it die as soon as you
pull the throttle barrel closed?....a lean low end will not die right off
and may take a few seconds to die off....Yes you can richen the pump...and
this will facilitate you leaning the high end.....but with the numbers you
have on 25% fuel you're not going to get much more out of it yet....and its
still pretty new....Check the valves...make sure the gap is near zero...I
think the instructions say 0.002" Max...I set mine as tight as I can get
them and still have a gap....meaning I set them close to zero.

When the motors are new the intake valve pushrod will wear pretty good for a
while not extreme just every 5-10 flights for the first 50 it will
change...Then typical the exhaust valve wears when they are new also...After
about 50 flights it will get very stable if not before.


Another thing is I fly a bunch...as the needle valve housing wears the need
to lean the motor is required. I have one motor that has around 500 flights
on it...It was down to about 3/4 turn open...Put  a new Needle assembly and
it was back up at about 1-1/4 to 1-3/8 open.

TN
----- Original Message -----
From: <pentagon.systems at bigpond.com>
To: <discussion at nsrca.org>
Sent: Thursday, April 24, 2003 6:48 AM
Subject: RE: YS 140DZ fixed!


> Hi Troy,
>
> What are your regulator settings and main needle settings.
>
> I am a little concerned that my regulator is about 3/4 turn in from
> flush while my main needle is at almost 2 turns. My setup seems sooo
> much richer than what are people have. I am worried that this pump is
> not producing much fuel pressure.
>
> what are your thoughts
>
>
> Regards,
>
> Peter
>
>
> Peter Pennisi
> Pentagon Systems
> P.O Box 4280
> Eight Mile Plains
> QLD 4113
> Australia
> Phone:    61+0738414234
> Fax:        61+0738414264
> Mobile:   0408007206
> Email: pentagon.systems at bigpond.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: discussion-request at nsrca.org [mailto:discussion-request at nsrca.org]
> On Behalf Of Troy Newman
> Sent: Thursday, 24 April 2003 10:36 AM
> To: discussion at nsrca.org
> Subject: Re: YS 140DZ fixed!
>
>
> You are in the ball park RPM wise...I'm turning the 16.5-12W at
> 8400....peaks out at about 8700...and I'm flying at about 8300-8400....
>
> that is of course on Cool Power 30% heli pro.....
>
> TN
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Peter Pennisi
> To: discussion at nsrca.org
> Sent: Wednesday, April 23, 2003 5:16 PM
> Subject: RE: YS 140DZ fault?
>
>
> The problem is fixed by replacing the whole pump assembly. When I
> removed the original one the piston or whatever in the pump was seizing.
> Motor appears to be running OK. There is a small leak I need to
> investigate.
>
>
> What sort of ground RPM are people swinging with this engine. I tached
> 8500 on a 16x12 APC on 25% heli fuel. (Klotz KL-198 heli glow).
>
>
> Peter Pennisi
> Pentagon Systems
> P.O Box 4280
> Eight Mile Plains
> QLD 4113
> Australia
> Phone:    61+0738414234
> Fax:        61+0738414264
> Mobile:   0408007206
> Email: pentagon.systems at bigpond.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: discussion-request at nsrca.org [mailto:discussion-request at nsrca.org]
> On Behalf Of PENNISI Peter
> Sent: Wednesday, 23 April 2003 13:23 PM
> To: 'discussion at nsrca.org'
> Subject: RE: YS 140DZ fault?
>
>
> Thanks Terrence,
>
> A big problem I am having is it wont go to full throttle. At about 1/3
> throttle or less it goes lean and stops. How can this be rich. I tried
> this approach even at 1 1/2 turns out on main needle with the same
> results. What about the loud metal rattle that is coming from the pump
> assembly.
>
> Regards,
>
> Peter
> -----Original Message-----
> From: T&C Brown [mailto:tncbrown at charter.net]
> Sent: Wednesday, 23 April 2003 1:01 PM
> To: NSRCA
> Subject: Fw: YS 140DZ fault?
>
>
>
> Peter,
>
> It sounds like your running the engine way too rich.  When I got my
> first DZ, I set it up the same way, and had the same problem.  You
> cannot run it like an "L".  If you have adjusted the pump from the
> factory setting......return it to it's original position and start with
> the high speed needle at 1 1/8 to 1 1/4 turns out from full closed.  If
> the motor starts.....let it warm up a minute then advance it to full
> throttle.  Once at full throttle, slowly  (one or two clicks at a time)
> turn the needle in to lean it until the RPM drops.  Once you hear the
> RPM start to drop, richen it back three or so clicks and run it.  I know
> what your thinking...."It sounds way to lean"  but this is how Richard
> from YS Performance told me to set it up, and I've had no problems with
> this.  Once the motor is broke in the high speed needle should be around
> 3/4 to 1 turn out from full close.  Hope this helps.
>
> Terrance Brown
> YS Field Rep
>
>
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