<html><body><div style="color:#000; background-color:#fff; font-family:times new roman, new york, times, serif;font-size:12pt"><div style="RIGHT: auto">A bit of a delimma mostly because I don't know the Pro's / Con's of strength VS weight with various epoxy mixes.</div>
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<div style="RIGHT: auto">Issue... I damaged LG gear blocks of a 2M Monolog... It was my fault and I don't think it had anything to do with the design. Actually I believe the design saved me from a much more difficult task of rebuilding part of the fuse. The gear block did it's job mostly because I didn't do mine and I was stupid. Figured I could set a timer up later after a contest, flying electrics... Uhhh, not a good idea if you going to throw in any type of redos in 15 - 20mph winds... Just saying... Deadsticks are no fun... I was also lucky with the main batteries... Not too hot, didn't puff, and put 5100 and 5150 back into the two 5000 packs... Lesson learned and a small price to pay ...</div>
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<div style="RIGHT: auto">Here is what I'm thinking about trying and what I have done so far.</div>
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<div style="RIGHT: auto">I removed all the loose wood in the existing gear block area and dremeled out the wood that was shreaded due to being sheared. Everything fit back in place without being removed completely.</div>
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<div style="RIGHT: auto">If I removed it completely and replaced it, I would have created some damage to the surrounding area (fuse sides and formers) trying to cut it out or using a dremel to remove.</div>
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<div style="RIGHT: auto">I glued the main parts back in place with 30 minute epoxy and let cure.</div>
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<div style="RIGHT: auto">I then taped up any holes or gaps from missing wood to prevent the thin epoxy from flowing through.</div>
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<div style="RIGHT: auto">I mixed a 50/50 ratio (volume) of 20min Finishing Epoxy (extremely thin epoxy) and micro ballons. I used this very thin mixture (similar viscocity to motor oil) to fill voids and areas where the wood was removed so it would be flush with the existing wood. This provided for a nice level finish of the existing wood block and an unintetional outcome was a perfect fillet all the way around the block. I was very surprised with the outcome, much better than I thought it might turn out. This should also allow me to easily sand down high spots of the cured epoxy flush to the existing gear block for laminating light ply to the existing gear block for setting the t-nuts for the LG.</div>
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<div style="RIGHT: auto">This only added 3 grams of weight minus the weight of the wood that was removed. Measured the epoxy before and after use. 9 grams epoxy, 9 hardner, and 1 gram of microballons. 1 gram of microballons is a lot more than it sounds... After applying the epoxy, I had 16 grams left.</div>
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<div style="RIGHT: auto">My next step is to laminate a 3/16 light ply with 30 min epoxy to the top (inside of fuse) of the gear block spanning about 75% of the length (across the fuse) and the same width of the existing gear block. My theory is this should offer strength accross the gear block without over-reinforcing the gear block area and not add unnecessary weight.</div>
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<div style="RIGHT: auto">Does this sound sufficient or is the risk too great that the gear block will be too weak?</div>
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<div style="RIGHT: auto">My concern is that the Finishing Epoxy and microballoons will not be strong enough. My thought is...it isn't being used for strength and only for a filler to bond the existing gear block. It appears that the dried mixture is as strong as a filler/laminate than the original ply.</div>
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<div style="RIGHT: auto">It is not too late to cut it out. There is only cosmetic damage to the surrounding area. I'm concerned that if I try to cut out the gear plate, I will do more damage and it will be weaker and heavier in the end.</div>
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<div style="RIGHT: auto">Larry Diamond</div>
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<div style="RIGHT: auto">Yes, I have pondered on this since June 1st... Started putting it back together last night.</div></div></body></html>