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<DIV>I order from either ACP or CST composites.</DIV>
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<DIV style="font-color: black"><B>From:</B> <A title=vogel.peter@gmail.com
href="mailto:vogel.peter@gmail.com">Peter Vogel</A> </DIV>
<DIV><B>Sent:</B> Friday, June 14, 2013 1:34 PM</DIV>
<DIV><B>To:</B> <A title=ldiamond@diamondrc.com
href="mailto:ldiamond@diamondrc.com">Larry Diamond</A> ; <A
title=nsrca-discussion@lists.nsrca.org
href="mailto:nsrca-discussion@lists.nsrca.org">General pattern discussion</A>
</DIV>
<DIV><B>Subject:</B> Re: [NSRCA-discussion] Repairing Gear Block - Guidance
Needed -Added Weight VS Strength</DIV></DIV></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV></DIV>
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<DIV dir=ltr>Can you provide a pointer to the balsa/cf panels you used?
Are these the ones from ACP or something else?
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Thanks,</DIV>
<DIV>Peter+</DIV></DIV>
<DIV class=gmail_extra><BR><BR>
<DIV class=gmail_quote>On Fri, Jun 14, 2013 at 11:14 AM, Larry Diamond <SPAN
dir=ltr><<A href="mailto:ldiamond@diamondrc.com"
target=_blank>ldiamond@diamondrc.com</A>></SPAN> wrote:<BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE class=gmail_quote
style="PADDING-LEFT: 1ex; MARGIN: 0px 0px 0px 0.8ex; BORDER-LEFT: #ccc 1px solid">
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<DIV><SPAN>Thanks for all the advice...</SPAN></DIV>
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style="FONT-SIZE: 16px; FONT-FAMILY: times new roman,new york,times,serif; FONT-STYLE: normal; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent"><SPAN></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV
style="FONT-SIZE: 16px; FONT-FAMILY: times new roman,new york,times,serif; FONT-STYLE: normal; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent"><SPAN>Just
ordered the end grain balsa / CF panels.</SPAN></DIV>
<DIV
style="FONT-SIZE: 16px; FONT-FAMILY: times new roman,new york,times,serif; FONT-STYLE: normal; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent"><SPAN></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV
style="FONT-SIZE: 16px; FONT-FAMILY: times new roman,new york,times,serif; FONT-STYLE: normal; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent"><SPAN>I'll
go this route...<VAR></VAR></SPAN></DIV>
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style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: times new roman,new york,times,serif">
<DIV
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<DIV
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readonly></DIV><FONT face=Arial><B><SPAN
style="FONT-WEIGHT: bold">From:</SPAN></B> Keith Hoard <<A
href="mailto:klhoard@hotmail.com" target=_blank>klhoard@hotmail.com</A>>
<DIV class=im><BR><B><SPAN style="FONT-WEIGHT: bold">To:</SPAN></B> General
pattern discussion <<A href="mailto:nsrca-discussion@lists.nsrca.org"
target=_blank>nsrca-discussion@lists.nsrca.org</A>> <BR></DIV><B><SPAN
style="FONT-WEIGHT: bold">Sent:</SPAN></B> Friday, June 14, 2013 11:59 AM
<DIV>
<DIV class=h5><BR><B><SPAN style="FONT-WEIGHT: bold">Subject:</SPAN></B> Re:
[NSRCA-discussion] Repairing Gear Block - Guidance Needed -Added Weight VS
Strength<BR></DIV></DIV></FONT></DIV>
<DIV>
<DIV class=h5>
<DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr>
<DIV dir=ltr>
<DIV style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Calibri'">
<DIV>I keep a stock of 1/8” and 1/4” end grain balsa / Carbon Fiber
laminate on hand for just such repairs. That stuff is light and
extremely strong . . .</DIV>
<DIV>.</DIV>
<DIV><A href="http://www.acpsales.com/Sandwich-Panels.html"
target=_blank>http://www.acpsales.com/Sandwich-Panels.html</A></DIV>
<DIV>.</DIV>
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style="FONT-SIZE: small; FONT-FAMILY: 'Calibri'; FONT-WEIGHT: normal; FONT-STYLE: normal; TEXT-DECORATION: none; DISPLAY: inline">
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<DIV style="BACKGROUND: #f5f5f5">
<DIV><B>From:</B> <A title=vanputter@gmail.com
href="mailto:vanputter@gmail.com" rel=nofollow target=_blank>Ronald Van
Putte</A> </DIV>
<DIV><B>Sent:</B> Friday, June 14, 2013 11:45 AM</DIV>
<DIV><B>To:</B> <A title=nsrca-discussion@lists.nsrca.org
href="mailto:nsrca-discussion@lists.nsrca.org" rel=nofollow
target=_blank>General pattern discussion</A> </DIV>
<DIV><B>Subject:</B> Re: [NSRCA-discussion] Repairing Gear Block - Guidance
Needed -Added Weight VS Strength</DIV></DIV></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV></DIV>
<DIV
style="FONT-SIZE: small; FONT-FAMILY: 'Calibri'; FONT-WEIGHT: normal; FONT-STYLE: normal; TEXT-DECORATION: none; DISPLAY: inline">I
think you are right to be concerned. Finishing resin is not intended for
structural use and I don't know whether your repair will hold together.
I also don't know what you used to replace the original gear blocks, but I
would be concerned about the use of lite ply. It is not nearly as strong
as aircraft-grade plywood.
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>I have intimate experience with landing gear plate replacement, having
just completed a total replacement of the gear plate in my Vanquish. For
some reason, the manufacturer uses cheap three-ply plywood for the landing
gear plate and a landing in a grass field that had a hole in the turf took out
the left side of the gear plate. The plywood opened up where the gear
was bolted to it. </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>I won't explain here what I did to replace the gear plate, other than to
say that I removed a section of the bottom of the fuselage to access the area
where the gear is bolted to the gear plate and used some ingenuity to
manufacture a new gear plate and install it, using the existing gear plate tab
holes in the adjacent bulkheads. Contact me if interested in knowing
what I did.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Ron Van Putte</DIV>
<DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>
<DIV>On Jun 14, 2013, at 11:26 AM, Larry Diamond wrote:</DIV><BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE type="cite">
<DIV>
<DIV
style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: times new roman,new york,times,serif">
<DIV>A bit of a delimma mostly because I don't know the Pro's / Con's of
strength VS weight with various epoxy mixes.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Issue... I damaged LG gear blocks of a 2M Monolog... It was my fault
and I don't think it had anything to do with the design. Actually I believe
the design saved me from a much more difficult task of rebuilding part of
the fuse. The gear block did it's job mostly because I didn't do mine and I
was stupid. Figured I could set a timer up later after a contest, flying
electrics... Uhhh, not a good idea if you going to throw in any type of
redos in 15 - 20mph winds... Just saying... Deadsticks are no fun... I was
also lucky with the main batteries... Not too hot, didn't puff, and put 5100
and 5150 back into the two 5000 packs... Lesson learned and a small price to
pay ...</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Here is what I'm thinking about trying and what I have done so
far.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>I removed all the loose wood in the existing gear block area and
dremeled out the wood that was shreaded due to being sheared. Everything fit
back in place without being removed completely.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>If I removed it completely and replaced it, I would have created some
damage to the surrounding area (fuse sides and formers) trying to cut it out
or using a dremel to remove.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>I glued the main parts back in place with 30 minute epoxy and let
cure.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>I then taped up any holes or gaps from missing wood to prevent the thin
epoxy from flowing through.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>I mixed a 50/50 ratio (volume) of 20min Finishing Epoxy (extremely thin
epoxy) and micro ballons. I used this very thin mixture (similar viscocity
to motor oil) to fill voids and areas where the wood was removed so it would
be flush with the existing wood. This provided for a nice level finish of
the existing wood block and an unintetional outcome was a perfect fillet all
the way around the block. I was very surprised with the outcome, much better
than I thought it might turn out. This should also allow me to easily sand
down high spots of the cured epoxy flush to the existing gear block for
laminating light ply to the existing gear block for setting the t-nuts for
the LG.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>This only added 3 grams of weight minus the weight of the wood that was
removed. Measured the epoxy before and after use. 9 grams epoxy, 9 hardner,
and 1 gram of microballons. 1 gram of microballons is a lot more than it
sounds... After applying the epoxy, I had 16 grams left.</DIV>
<DIV><VAR></VAR> </DIV>
<DIV>My next step is to laminate a 3/16 light ply with 30 min epoxy to the
top (inside of fuse) of the gear block spanning about 75% of the length
(across the fuse) and the same width of the existing gear block. My theory
is this should offer strength accross the gear block without
over-reinforcing the gear block area and not add unnecessary weight.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Does this sound sufficient or is the risk too great that the gear block
will be too weak?</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>My concern is that the Finishing Epoxy and microballoons will not be
strong enough. My thought is...it isn't being used for strength and only for
a filler to bond the existing gear block. It appears that the dried mixture
is as strong as a filler/laminate than the original ply.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>It is not too late to cut it out. There is only cosmetic damage to the
surrounding area. I'm concerned that if I try to cut out the gear plate, I
will do more damage and it will be weaker and heavier in the end.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Larry Diamond</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Yes, I have pondered on this since June 1st... Started putting it back
together last
night.</DIV></DIV></DIV>_______________________________________________<BR>NSRCA-discussion
mailing list<BR><A href="mailto:NSRCA-discussion@lists.nsrca.org"
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<DIV> </DIV>-- <BR>
<DIV>Director, Fixed Wing Flight Training</DIV>
<DIV>Santa Clara County Model Aircraft Skypark</DIV><IMG
src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7163/6513778381_5569cc985d_m.jpg" width=200
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