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<DIV><FONT face=Arial color=#000080>So much good info. I'm gonna use Finishing
resin to seal the motor area. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial color=#000080></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial color=#000080>How bad of an idea would it to be the
finishing resin to glue in the fiberglass horns into the wood
surfaces?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><BR>Regards,<BR>Jason<BR><A
href="http://www.shulmanaviation.com">www.shulmanaviation.com</A><BR><A
href="http://www.composite-arf.com">www.composite-arf.com</A><BR></FONT></DIV>
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<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV
style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: black"><B>From:</B>
<A title=gfowler@raytheon.com href="mailto:gfowler@raytheon.com">Gray E
Fowler</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A
title=nsrca-discussion@lists.nsrca.org
href="mailto:nsrca-discussion@lists.nsrca.org">General pattern discussion</A>
</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Monday, March 16, 2009 11:44
AM</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Re: [NSRCA-discussion] thinning
epoxy, how?</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV><BR><FONT face=sans-serif size=2>Jim</FONT> <BR><BR><FONT
face=sans-serif size=2>Polyesters will not cure when in contact with oxygen,
leaving a sticky surface. If your surface is not sticky after applying-curing
polyester then you are using a "true" polyester finishing resin, which is
fine, BUT look out because to stop the oxygen inhibition polyester "finishing"
resins add 5% wax, which floats to the surface and blocks the oxygen. I say
lookout, because any future bonding to this area will be extremely poor. If
you are not bonding to an area saturated with this resin you are fine.</FONT>
<BR><BR><FONT face=sans-serif size=2>K&B paint was fine, just a regular
epoxy cured with a polyamide, meaning the mixture needs to be "inducted" prior
to use, that is mixed up and then sits in a mass for a t least 15 minutes
(read the instructions) or the polyimide will slightly separate giving you a
sticky surface.</FONT> <BR><BR><FONT face=sans-serif size=2>Unfamiliar Formula
U, but Concept clear works very well.</FONT> <BR><BR><FONT face=sans-serif
size=2>I always clear coat with Concept 2021..easy, lightweight and more
durable. My entire engine area is sealed with Concept clear or laminating
epoxy.<BR></FONT><BR><FONT face=sans-serif size=2><BR><BR><BR>Gray
Fowler<BR>Senior Principal Chemical Engineer<BR>Radomes and Specialty
Apertures<BR>Technical Staff Composites Engineering<BR>Raytheon</FONT>
<BR><BR><BR>
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<TD width="40%"><FONT face=sans-serif size=1><B>"J N Hiller"
<jnhiller@earthlink.net></B> </FONT><BR><FONT face=sans-serif
size=1>Sent by: nsrca-discussion-bounces@lists.nsrca.org</FONT>
<P><FONT face=sans-serif size=1>03/16/2009 10:16 AM</FONT>
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<DIV align=center><FONT face=sans-serif size=1>Please respond
to<BR>General pattern discussion
<nsrca-discussion@lists.nsrca.org></FONT></DIV></TR></TBODY></TABLE><BR></P>
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<DIV align=right><FONT face=sans-serif size=1>To</FONT></DIV>
<TD><FONT face=sans-serif size=1>"General pattern discussion"
<nsrca-discussion@lists.nsrca.org></FONT>
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<TD>
<DIV align=right><FONT face=sans-serif size=1>cc</FONT></DIV>
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<DIV align=right><FONT face=sans-serif size=1>Subject</FONT></DIV>
<TD><FONT face=sans-serif size=1>Re: [NSRCA-discussion] thinning
epoxy, how?</FONT></TR></TBODY></TABLE><BR>
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<TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE><BR></TR></TBODY></TABLE><BR><BR><BR><FONT face=Arial
color=#000080 size=2>Thank you for the very informative information. I have
never used epoxy for fuel proofing. I've used Polyester finishing resin and
K&B epoxy paint until I ran out and recently Formula-U Polyurethane paint.
What are your thoughts on these alternate materials?</FONT>
<P><FONT face=Arial color=#000080 size=2>I find fuel proof compromising gouges
are more visible using colored paint rather than a clear coating.</FONT>
<P><FONT face=Arial color=#000080 size=2>Jim Hiller</FONT>
<P><FONT face=Arial color=#000080 size=2></FONT>
<P><FONT face=Arial color=#000080 size=2></FONT>
<P><FONT face=Tahoma size=2>-----Original Message-----<B><BR>From:</B>
nsrca-discussion-bounces@lists.nsrca.org
[mailto:nsrca-discussion-bounces@lists.nsrca.org]<B>On Behalf Of </B>Gray E
Fowler<B><BR>Sent:</B> Monday, March 16, 2009 6:24 AM<B><BR>To:</B> General
pattern discussion<B><BR>Subject:</B> Re: [NSRCA-discussion] thinning epoxy,
how?</FONT>
<P><FONT face="Times New Roman" size=3></FONT>
<P><FONT face=sans-serif size=2><BR>Fast curing epoxy adhesives such as the 30
minute are a bad initial choice. I realize that thousands have used it in
these applications, but that still does not make it a good choice. The non
reactive components in the fast epoxy plasticize with age and methanol and
nitro will seriously degrade the stuff. Using one of the thinner slower curing
laminating resins will require less solvent, if any and provide a much longer
lasting barrier. Any solvent added to an epoxy needs to evaporate completely
or you will created a problem. Denatured alcohol (ethanol) evaporates very
slowly. Cutting a fast cure epoxy with a slow evaporating solvent is a recipe
for trapping alot of solvent, making the chemical resistant even worse.
Methanol evaporates much faster and epoxy is much more soluable in methanol.
Be very careful using ketone solvents (acetone, MEK) or aromatics (Toluene,
Xylene) because many kit manufacturers use styrofoam as a core material that
will be destroyed in seconds with all solvents except the
alcohols.</FONT><FONT face="Times New Roman" size=3> <BR></FONT><FONT
face=sans-serif size=2><BR>SO!</FONT><FONT face="Times New Roman" size=3>
<BR></FONT><FONT face=sans-serif size=2><BR>1. Use a thin slower cure
laminating resin</FONT><FONT face="Times New Roman" size=3> </FONT><FONT
face=sans-serif size=2><BR>2. Use Acetone, MEK or Laquer thinner</FONT><FONT
face="Times New Roman" size=3> </FONT><FONT face=sans-serif size=2><BR>3. NO
puddles, super thin coat</FONT><FONT face="Times New Roman" size=3>
</FONT><FONT face=sans-serif size=2><BR>4. Alcohols if you have a styrofoam
core</FONT><FONT face="Times New Roman" size=3> </FONT><FONT face=sans-serif
size=2><BR>5. rule #3 again</FONT><FONT face="Times New Roman" size=3>
</FONT><FONT face=sans-serif size=2><BR><BR>6. If you only need the plane to
last 1 year, then use 15 minute epoxy and do not worry..it will last 1 year or
so.</FONT><FONT face="Times New Roman" size=3> </FONT><FONT face=sans-serif
size=2><BR><BR>Gray Fowler<BR>Senior Principal Chemical Engineer<BR>Radomes
and Specialty Apertures<BR>Technical Staff Composites
Engineering<BR>Raytheon</FONT><FONT face="Times New Roman" size=3> <BR></FONT>
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<TD width="53%"><FONT face=sans-serif size=1><B>"J Shu"
<jshulman@cfl.rr.com></B> <BR>Sent by:
nsrca-discussion-bounces@lists.nsrca.org</FONT><FONT
face="Times New Roman" size=3> </FONT>
<P><FONT face=sans-serif size=1>03/15/2009 02:15 AM</FONT><FONT
face="Times New Roman" size=3> </FONT>
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<DIV align=center><FONT face=sans-serif size=1>Please respond
to<BR>General pattern discussion
<nsrca-discussion@lists.nsrca.org></FONT></DIV></TR></TBODY></TABLE><BR></P>
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<DIV align=right><FONT face=sans-serif size=1>To</FONT></DIV>
<TD width="85%"><FONT face=sans-serif size=1>"NSRCA"
<nsrca-discussion@lists.nsrca.org></FONT><FONT
face="Times New Roman" size=3> </FONT>
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<DIV align=right><FONT face=sans-serif size=1>cc</FONT></DIV>
<TD><FONT face="Times New Roman" size=3> </FONT>
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<DIV align=right><FONT face=sans-serif size=1>Subject</FONT></DIV>
<TD><FONT face=sans-serif size=1>[NSRCA-discussion] thinning
epoxy, how?</FONT></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
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<P><FONT face="Times New Roman" size=3><BR><BR></FONT><FONT face="Courier New"
size=2><BR>I want to add another layer of sealer to the firewall and tunnel on
my plane... what's the best way to do it with epoxy? I've got 30 <BR>minute
but not sure how to thin it to seal
it.<BR><BR>Regards,<BR>Jason<BR>www.shulmanaviation.com<BR>www.composite-arf.com<BR>[attachment
"IMG_4498 (500 x 299).jpg" deleted by Gray E Fowler/US/Raytheon]
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