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<body class='hmmessage'>Why the preference of Kavan (284 in-oz at 12 V) vs the Sullivan Hi-tork starter (210 in-oz at 12V) or the Sullivan Dynatron (340 in-oz at 12V or a lot more at 24V)? I am asking since my Sullivan Hi-tork looks like it finally is done for after 20+ years of service starting everything up to the 160DZ. I need to replace it soon.....<BR><BR><BR><BR>
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> From: don.ramsey@suddenlink.net<BR>> To: adriancwong@earthlink.net; nsrca-discussion@lists.nsrca.org<BR>> Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2008 08:36:25 -0500<BR>> Subject: [NSRCA-discussion] Kavan starter with Li-Po battery<BR>> <BR>> Adrian,<BR>> <BR>> I've had the windings of the armature break and stop the rotation. I did<BR>> once epoxy them back in place and it work for a while but soon failed. Did<BR>> you take the starter apart? If this is the problem it's easy to spot. I<BR>> couldn't find anyone who sold the armature as a part. Anyone know of a<BR>> source?<BR>> <BR>> BTW, the secret to reassembly is using 2 pins through the top of the started<BR>> to hold the brushes apart. Straight pins will work.<BR>> <BR>> Don<BR>> <BR>> -----Original Message-----<BR>> From: nsrca-discussion-bounces@lists.nsrca.org<BR>> [mailto:nsrca-discussion-bounces@lists.nsrca.org] On Behalf Of<BR>> adriancwong@earthlink.net<BR>> Sent: Friday, August 22, 2008 2:26 AM<BR>> To: NSRCA-discussion@lists.nsrca.org<BR>> Subject: [NSRCA-discussion] Kavan starter with Li-Po battery<BR>> <BR>> To all,<BR>> <BR>> I have been using a Kavan starter with a 10 cell, 12V, 2.2A ni-cd pack for<BR>> many years with good results. However, ever since the 1400DZ came out, it<BR>> required more cranking power from the starter and one charge would normally<BR>> only last for two weekends of flying. By the time the 160Z came along, I've<BR>> switched to a 12 cell, 14.4V, 2.2A ni-cd. Again, it performs flawlessly.<BR>> However, as you are aware, the 12 cell pack is really heavy.<BR>> <BR>> At the beginning of this year, I have switched to two li-po packs - 2 cell,<BR>> 7.4V, 2100 mAh with 15C continuous, 20C burst on each pack. The first<BR>> starter lasted for 6 months until it stopped working after normal wear and<BR>> tear. The second one stopped working - frozen solid - after about 2 months -<BR>> I could tell this one had some strange noise to began with, like something<BR>> was rubbing inside. Therefore, I wasn't surprise that it stopped working<BR>> only after two months. <BR>> <BR>> The third starter I rigged up was relatively new, and has been working<BR>> perfectly, until this afternoon. After the first flight, it was frozen solid<BR>> again. Like the second starter, it didn't give any warning sign whatsoever -<BR>> slowing down, getting hot on either the starter or the battery.<BR>> <BR>> My question:-<BR>> <BR>> 1) Am I using the wrong battery pack? <BR>> <BR>> 2) Too high of a discharge rate because it's a li-po instead of ni-cd?<BR>> <BR>> 3) Once the starter is frozen, is there a way to fix it? Sure hate to keep<BR>> tossing away starters.<BR>> <BR>> <BR>> Any advice or suggestion from you electric gurus are greatly appreciated. <BR>> <BR>> Thanks in advance,<BR>> <BR>> Adrian<BR>> <BR>> <BR>> _______________________________________________<BR>> NSRCA-discussion mailing list<BR>> NSRCA-discussion@lists.nsrca.org<BR>> http://lists.nsrca.org/mailman/listinfo/nsrca-discussion<BR>> <BR>> _______________________________________________<BR>> NSRCA-discussion mailing list<BR>> NSRCA-discussion@lists.nsrca.org<BR>> http://lists.nsrca.org/mailman/listinfo/nsrca-discussion<BR><br /><hr />Be the filmmaker you always wanted to be—learn how to burn a DVD with Windows®. <a href='http://clk.atdmt.com/MRT/go/108588797/direct/01/' target='_new'>Make your smash hit</a></body>
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