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<DIV><SPAN class=218205621-30072008><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff>I have been
using the NMP DARE rod ends for years. I like them. They are the lightest
and smallest to use. However I have not used the 3mm version. The 3mm version is
a bit too large for our pattern application. It works good on bigger 30% and
larger models. I always use the 2mm versions they are small and
compact.</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=218205621-30072008><FONT face=Arial
color=#0000ff></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=218205621-30072008><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff>As Jon Lowe
stated you have to cautious with them as the ceramic ball can get compressed and
cause some binding. I just tighten them up so there is no slop and no friction.
I have had very good results and have been using them for many
years.</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=218205621-30072008><FONT face=Arial
color=#0000ff></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=218205621-30072008><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff>As for the
Rod ends not fitting 4-40 they are not intended to fit 4-40 threads. A 3mm
thread is too large of diameter for a 4-40 to go into. I have also tried to
convert the 2mm ends to 2-56 and you have have to be careful as the plastic the
DARE ends is made from is not a normal nylon type material and takes some care
to re-tap to a different thread size. But I don't re-size them I use the 2mm
fittings with them and the 2mm DARE ends thread on perfectly and are already
threaded. They come with the jam nut for the pushrod and then the center 2mm
bolt that attaches them t the servo arm.</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=218205621-30072008><FONT face=Arial
color=#0000ff></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=218205621-30072008><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff>I can't
figure out why folks still use 4-40 and 3mm fittings and ends on their pattern
models. I have been using the 2mm stuff for about 8 years now and its perfect
for our application. I even use 2mm fittings on my DEPS systems that I install.
The finest thread and best for the application is a 2mm. This makes adjustments
more precise and gives you the best flexibility in your setup. 4-40 threads are
pretty course adjustment and a 1/2 turn on 4-40 can be a relatively large change
to the length of the pushrod. The 2mm stuff works better for me and gives a fine
adjustment over the 4-40 stuff.</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=218205621-30072008><FONT face=Arial
color=#0000ff></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=218205621-30072008><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff>I adjust the
tension on the ball in the ball link like Jon Lowe described and wear and
smoothness of the linkage is best I have ever used. Te MK ball bearing race ends
are good too, but these don't work well in an application like Ailerons where
the pushrod moves vertically while it moves in the rotation of the servo. Also
in a dirty environment the MK ball race is open to the elements and can
get dirt and oil and crud in them. This will affect the smooth motion part of
the linkage. The NMP ends don't have this problem. The MK ball bearing race ends
are good for say a elevator servo on its side, or in a rudder cable application
on the servo horn side. In my experience with these little devices I use the NMP
rod ends on the servo side for Ailerons and Elevator and then the MK 2mm Clevis
links on the control horn side. </FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=218205621-30072008><FONT face=Arial
color=#0000ff></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=218205621-30072008><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff>I'll post
some details about my 2mm pushrod stuff up on the my Pattern Flier Blog this
week. I have a bunch of stuff going up there now that the NATS is done. Focus
Sport files will be posted very soon. I'm planning some other stuff in the lines
of linkages and radio setup stuff. Robert and I also put a DEPS
in his Focus 2 the week before the NATS. It was about a 2hr job
and most of that was letting glue cure up. I took lots of photos and wanted
to post that up for you guys as well. I keep getting told its impossible to
install in a Built airframe. I hope that somebody that doesn't
know about this stuff can benefit from it. That is the entire
goal.</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=218205621-30072008><FONT face=Arial
color=#0000ff></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=218205621-30072008><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff>check out the
new website and the new stuff this week</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=218205621-30072008><FONT face=Arial
color=#0000ff></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=218205621-30072008><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff><A
href="http://www.patternflier.com">www.patternflier.com</A></FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=218205621-30072008><FONT face=Arial
color=#0000ff></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=218205621-30072008><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff>You can also
find a link on Central Hobbies.com to the new Pattern Flier website. Things are
just getting rolling over there and it should be a good
resource.</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=218205621-30072008><FONT face=Arial
color=#0000ff></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=218205621-30072008><FONT face=Arial color=#0000ff>Troy
Newman</FONT></SPAN></DIV></BODY></HTML>