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<DIV>Small size pulley/gear pullers are available in most well stocked auto
parts places that sell tools. I've used mine many a time in different
applications.</DIV>
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<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV
style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: black"><B>From:</B>
<A title=getterflash@yahoo.com href="mailto:getterflash@yahoo.com">Bob
Kane</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A
title=nsrca-discussion@lists.nsrca.org
href="mailto:nsrca-discussion@lists.nsrca.org">nsrca-discussion@lists.nsrca.org</A>
</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Friday, July 04, 2008 5:39 PM</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> [NSRCA-discussion] YS help</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
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style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: times new roman, new york, times, serif">
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<DIV>Well, for all the YS engines I have rebuilt, I'm stuck with a situation I
have not run into before. I dissassembled 160DZ to replace the main bearing.
The 2nd to the last step in the dissassembly porcess is to remove the
crank. A few light taps and it normally slides out. Well, this time the
bearing stayed on the crank. Usually it stays in the
crankcase. Normally I would heat the cranckcase to get the bearing
to fall out, but how do you get a stuck bearing off the crank? The fully
circular rear face of the crank shaft makes getting to the bearing
difficult. Suggestions?<BR> </DIV>Bob Kane<BR>getterflash@yahoo.com
<DIV></DIV></DIV><BR>
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