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<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=875365001-02062008><FONT face=Arial
color=#0000ff size=2>Very true... Adrian wouldn't know a MIG weld from an F86
weld...</FONT></SPAN></DIV><BR>
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<FONT face=Tahoma size=2><B>From:</B> nsrca-discussion-bounces@lists.nsrca.org
[mailto:nsrca-discussion-bounces@lists.nsrca.org] <B>On Behalf Of </B>krishlan
fitzsimmons<BR><B>Sent:</B> Sunday, June 01, 2008 5:26 PM<BR><B>To:</B> General
pattern discussion<BR><B>Subject:</B> Re: [NSRCA-discussion] YS-160 round
1...ding, ding<BR></FONT><BR></DIV>
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<P>Knowing Adrian, he was kidding..<BR><BR></P>
<DIV><STRONG><EM><FONT face="comic sans ms" color=#0000bf size=3>Chris
</FONT></EM></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV><BR><BR>--- On <B>Sun, 6/1/08, Ken Thompson
<I><KTHOMPSON56@satx.rr.com></I></B> wrote:<BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE
style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: rgb(16,16,255) 2px solid">From:
Ken Thompson <KTHOMPSON56@satx.rr.com><BR>Subject: Re:
[NSRCA-discussion] YS-160 round 1...ding, ding<BR>To: "General pattern
discussion" <nsrca-discussion@lists.nsrca.org><BR>Date: Sunday,
June 1, 2008, 5:17 PM<BR><BR>
<DIV id=yiv1111159193>
<STYLE></STYLE>
<DIV>Actually if it was aluminum to aluminum, TIG, not MIG, would
work...there's no weld that I'm aware of that will attach brass to
aluminum...</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Just so it is known, I believe the original comment about MIG
welding was in jest ;-)</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE
style="PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial"><B>From:</B> <A
title=THERUPMAN@aol.com href="mailto:THERUPMAN@aol.com" target=_blank
rel=nofollow>THERUPMAN@aol.com</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A
title=nsrca-discussion@lists.nsrca.org
href="mailto:nsrca-discussion@lists.nsrca.org" target=_blank
rel=nofollow>nsrca-discussion@lists.nsrca.org</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Sunday, June 01, 2008 7:02
PM</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Re: [NSRCA-discussion]
YS-160 round 1...ding, ding</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV><FONT id=role_document face=Arial color=#000000 size=2>
<DIV>Troy and all,</DIV>
<DIV>That's fantastic information. If only I knew what MIG welding
is.</DIV>
<DIV>BR in Nashville</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>
<DIV>In a message dated 6/1/2008 6:47:41 P.M. Central Daylight Time,
<A href="mailto:troy@troynewman.net" target=_blank
rel=nofollow>troy@troynewman.net</A> writes:</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE
style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: blue 2px solid"><FONT
style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" face=Arial color=#000000
size=2>Adrian,<BR><BR>Mig Welding might work...I don't know...I
always thought that MIG<BR>welding was for aluminum and Steel...like
thin sheets or<BR>tubing...Stainless steel sinks and the likes are
MIG welded. While I<BR>think MIG welding would work on a
Header if you were good enough to do<BR>it, I don't think MIG is
what you would use to put the Brass insert back<BR>into an Aluminum
casting. The only thing you might be able to do is<BR>create a small
mechanical stop as you melted the MIG "wire" over the top<BR>of the
brass fitting. The weld would not penetrate down into the
joint<BR>between the brass Injector Tube and the Aluminum head. Also
MIG is very<BR>critical on having the surfaces clean and dry. It if
difficult to get<BR>down in a hole that is about 1/8" diameter and
clean it.<BR><BR>I know there are some welder types out there. I'm
not a smart guy on<BR>welding. I just know that there are different
processes needed when the<BR>metals are different types. If it was
Aluminum to Aluminum then I think<BR>MIG would work...but I don't
think it's the best for that situation...I<BR>think Mig is used when
you are building a Bead on the external surface.<BR>Not trying to
get material into a recessed hole. I would think a Sweat<BR>joint
like a plumber uses on copper pipe would be a better
situation.<BR>The Filler rod or solder or what ever would penetrate
the joint down<BR>into the recess and make a mechanical connection
down in the hole.<BR>Welding a small bead over the top of the brass
nipple with a MIG welder<BR>may hold for a while but I think
it would fail in short order...<BR><BR>Sorry just not enough welding
info in my brain.<BR><BR><BR>Troy<BR><BR><BR>-----Original
Message-----<BR>From:
nsrca-discussion-bounces@lists.nsrca.org<BR>[mailto:nsrca-discussion-bounces@lists.nsrca.org]
On Behalf Of<BR>adriancwong@earthlink.net<BR>Sent: Sunday, June 01,
2008 4:11 PM<BR>To: General pattern discussion<BR>Subject: Re:
[NSRCA-discussion] YS-160 round 1...ding, ding<BR><BR>Oh, no,
instead of JB Weld, I mig welded mine, is that
OK?<BR><BR>-----Original Message-----<BR>>From: JShulman
<jshulman@cfl.rr.com><BR>>Sent: Jun 1, 2008 6:41
PM<BR>>To: General pattern discussion
<nsrca-discussion@lists.nsrca.org><BR>>Subject: Re:
[NSRCA-discussion] YS-160 round 1...ding, ding<BR>><BR>>Thanks
Troy. Noticed that there is no fuel line keeper, so gotta order
<BR>>one of those. Motor still runs great with lots of power. The
richer low<BR><BR>>end solved the higher issue instantly too,
thanks again! I'm hoping<BR>that it only moves cause of the lack of
the keeper, so we'll get that on<BR>and go from there. Worst case is
eventually we'll plug the line right<BR>into the
head.<BR>><BR>>Regards,<BR>>Jason<BR>>www.jasonshulman.com<BR>>www.shulmanaviation.com<BR>>www.composite-arf.com<BR>><BR>>-----Original
Message-----<BR>>From: nsrca-discussion-bounces@lists.nsrca.org
<BR>>[mailto:nsrca-discussion-bounces@lists.nsrca.org]On Behalf
Of Troy <BR>>Newman<BR>>Sent: Sunday, June 01, 2008 11:32
AM<BR>>To: General pattern discussion<BR>>Subject: Re:
[NSRCA-discussion] YS-160 round 1...ding,
ding<BR>><BR>><BR>>Jason,<BR>><BR>>Regardless of the
peanut galleries comments here is the skinny.<BR>><BR>>There
are two parts...the black plastic check valve....and then the
<BR>>Brass Injector that goes into the head. The black plastic
part can get <BR>>loose, IF the injector fuel line is allowed to
flop around. This is why<BR><BR>>it has a clip on it. Some folks
will remove the clip and the fuel <BR>>tubing is allowed to flop.
Also some folks seem to thing they can <BR>>remove the black
plastic check valve and re-install it. Nope the <BR>>Plastic goes
on one time and to remove it the plastic breaks out and <BR>>the
hole is not larger from the barb damage.<BR>><BR>>The idea is
to not mess with it.<BR>><BR>><BR>>There have been a
few cases of mostly early 160's and mostly a couple <BR>>years
ago when the brass nozzle came out of the head. I know of 3 of
<BR>>these and one was in Japan, one in Australia and one in the
USA.<BR>>Extremely rare, but clean it up and yes I have been told
JB weld will <BR>>fix it. My understanding is that this nozzle is
pressed in with some <BR>>kind of adhesive at the factory. So the
JB weld is the same kind of <BR>>thing....You don't have that
problem.<BR>><BR>>If the engine is allowed to hit the cowl of
the model sometime the <BR>>black plastic check valve will get
knocked around....If it gets loose, <BR>>just remove it and hook
the fuel tubing direct to the injector nozzle. <BR>>It will work
fine. The check valve is there for long extended idles, <BR>>and
quick throttle ups.....Think F-07 Double Avalanche. The check
valve<BR><BR>>prevents a burp on throttle
up.<BR>><BR>><BR>>If you engine is set properly you won't
get the burp anyway...but if <BR>>its just a touch lean on
the pump...then a tiny air bubble can migrate<BR><BR>>back into
the injector fuel line. This is because the valve cover is
<BR>>the air box...and is under pressure...so the high pressure
keeps the <BR>>fuel from coming out of the injector until the
valve on the engine <BR>>opens. When the valve opens the pump
gives a squirt and the fuel comes<BR>out.....<BR>><BR>>At idle
the engine is not using much fuel at all....and the injector
<BR>>will leak a little fuel into the valve cover area....If the
engine is <BR>>too rich (pump)...this is what causes it to get a
rough idle. If the <BR>>pump is too lean then there is not enough
fuel in the line and the <BR>>pressure in the line is lower so
the air box pressure pushes the fuel <BR>>back in the injector
line and right at the very end of the in injector <BR>>line forms
a little air bubble.<BR>><BR>><BR>>The black plastic check
valve prevents this from happening.<BR>><BR>><BR>>So the
long story aside if its flopping around pry it off with a large
<BR>>flat blade screw driver, just slowly inch it off...then hook
the fuel <BR>>line direct. It will work fine.<BR>><BR>>By
the way the new 170's have a different clip on the injector line
<BR>>that keeps the fuel tubing from flopping around. This keeps
the black <BR>>plastic from turning and getting loose on the
injector nozzle.<BR>><BR>><BR>>The peanut gallery can now
continue their comments.<BR>><BR>>Thanks<BR>>Troy
Newman<BR>><BR>>-----Original Message-----<BR>>From:
nsrca-discussion-bounces@lists.nsrca.org<BR>>[mailto:nsrca-discussion-bounces@lists.nsrca.org]
On Behalf Of JShulman<BR>>Sent: Sunday, June 01, 2008 8:06
AM<BR>>To: General pattern discussion<BR>>Subject: Re:
[NSRCA-discussion] YS-160 round 1...ding, ding<BR>><BR>>Oh
yea... the check valve. Regs in front... duh. Where do I plug in
the<BR><BR>>battery???<BR>><BR>>I'll check it and make sure
I'm just seeing things. We're still <BR>>learning about the new
YS's. Maybe it always swiveled and I just now<BR>noticed
it.<BR>><BR>>Regards,<BR>>Jason<BR>>www.jasonshulman.com<BR>>www.shulmanaviation.com<BR>>www.composite-arf.com<BR>><BR>>-----Original
Message-----<BR>>From:
nsrca-discussion-bounces@lists.nsrca.org<BR>>[mailto:nsrca-discussion-bounces@lists.nsrca.org]On
Behalf Of Mike <BR>>Hester<BR>>Sent: Sunday, June 01, 2008
10:35 AM<BR>>To: General pattern discussion<BR>>Subject: Re:
[NSRCA-discussion] YS-160 round 1...ding,
ding<BR>><BR>><BR>>You mean the check valve? It is press
fit. It swivels =)<BR>><BR>>As long as it's not loose, it's
fine. Sometimes the fitting comes loose<BR><BR>>from the head
where it's just pressed in. If that's the case, JB weld.<BR>>But
the black part just presses on to that.<BR>><BR>>if you mean
the part that attaches on to the pushrod tubes, it's just
<BR>>plastic and if it's moving excessively, something might have
broken.<BR>><BR>>-Mike<BR>><BR>>----- Original Message
-----<BR>>From: "JShulman" <jshulman@cfl.rr.com><BR>>To:
"NSRCA" <nsrca-discussion@lists.nsrca.org><BR>>Sent:
Sunday, June 01, 2008 10:12 AM<BR>>Subject: [NSRCA-discussion]
YS-160 round 1...ding, ding<BR>><BR>><BR>>>
Sooooooooooo.... how do we tighten up the regulator (black piece at
<BR>>> valve<BR>>> cover) on the top of the motor? It
seems that this one has come loose<BR><BR>>> as it will swivel
back and forth.<BR>>><BR>>> BTW Chris... I am still
flying electric <G><BR>>><BR>>>
Regards,<BR>>> Jason<BR>>>
www.jasonshulman.com<BR>>> www.shulmanaviation.com<BR>>>
www.composite-arf.com<BR>>> No virus found in this outgoing
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