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<p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";
color:#1F497D'>Don’t even think about that either. Call Richard and get
new parts to make it right.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";
color:#1F497D'><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
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<div style='border:none;border-top:solid #B5C4DF 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0in 0in 0in'>
<p class=MsoNormal><b><span style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif"'>From:</span></b><span
style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif"'>
nsrca-discussion-bounces@lists.nsrca.org
[mailto:nsrca-discussion-bounces@lists.nsrca.org] <b>On Behalf Of </b>Jay
Marshall<br>
<b>Sent:</b> Sunday, June 01, 2008 8:24 PM<br>
<b>To:</b> 'General pattern discussion'<br>
<b>Subject:</b> Re: [NSRCA-discussion] YS-160 round 1...ding, ding<o:p></o:p></span></p>
</div>
</div>
<p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Arial","sans-serif";
color:navy'>Metal Inert Gas – don’t even think about it! The heat
will kill it! Take it down to your local jewelry shop and have an expert silver
solder or braze it.</span><o:p></o:p></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Arial","sans-serif";
color:navy'> </span><o:p></o:p></p>
<div>
<p><b><i><span style='font-size:13.5pt;font-family:"Brush Script MT";
color:navy'>Jay Marshall</span></i></b><span style='color:navy'> </span><o:p></o:p></p>
</div>
<p class=MsoNormal style='margin-left:.5in'><span style='font-size:10.0pt;
font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif"'>-----Original Message-----<br>
<b>From:</b> nsrca-discussion-bounces@lists.nsrca.org
[mailto:nsrca-discussion-bounces@lists.nsrca.org] <b>On Behalf Of </b>THERUPMAN@aol.com<br>
<b>Sent:</b> Sunday, June 01, 2008 8:03 PM<br>
<b>To:</b> nsrca-discussion@lists.nsrca.org<br>
<b>Subject:</b> Re: [NSRCA-discussion] YS-160 round 1...ding, ding</span><o:p></o:p></p>
<p class=MsoNormal style='margin-left:.5in'> <o:p></o:p></p>
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<p class=MsoNormal style='margin-left:.5in'><span style='font-size:10.0pt;
font-family:"Arial","sans-serif";color:black'>Troy and all,</span><o:p></o:p></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class=MsoNormal style='margin-left:.5in'><span style='font-size:10.0pt;
font-family:"Arial","sans-serif";color:black'>That's fantastic information. If
only I knew what MIG welding is.</span><o:p></o:p></p>
</div>
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<p class=MsoNormal style='margin-left:.5in'><span style='font-size:10.0pt;
font-family:"Arial","sans-serif";color:black'>BR in Nashville</span><o:p></o:p></p>
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<p class=MsoNormal style='margin-left:.5in'><span style='font-size:10.0pt;
font-family:"Arial","sans-serif";color:black'> </span><o:p></o:p></p>
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<p class=MsoNormal style='margin-left:.5in'><span style='font-size:10.0pt;
font-family:"Arial","sans-serif";color:black'>In a message dated 6/1/2008
6:47:41 P.M. Central Daylight Time, troy@troynewman.net writes:</span><o:p></o:p></p>
</div>
<blockquote style='border:none;border-left:solid blue 1.5pt;padding:0in 0in 0in 4.0pt;
margin-left:3.75pt;margin-top:5.0pt;margin-bottom:5.0pt'>
<p class=MsoNormal style='margin-left:.5in'><span style='font-size:10.0pt;
font-family:"Arial","sans-serif";color:black'>Adrian,<br>
<br>
Mig Welding might work...I don't know...I always thought that MIG<br>
welding was for aluminum and Steel...like thin sheets or<br>
tubing...Stainless steel sinks and the likes are MIG welded. While I<br>
think MIG welding would work on a Header if you were good enough to do<br>
it, I don't think MIG is what you would use to put the Brass insert back<br>
into an Aluminum casting. The only thing you might be able to do is<br>
create a small mechanical stop as you melted the MIG "wire" over the
top<br>
of the brass fitting. The weld would not penetrate down into the joint<br>
between the brass Injector Tube and the Aluminum head. Also MIG is very<br>
critical on having the surfaces clean and dry. It if difficult to get<br>
down in a hole that is about 1/8" diameter and clean it.<br>
<br>
I know there are some welder types out there. I'm not a smart guy on<br>
welding. I just know that there are different processes needed when the<br>
metals are different types. If it was Aluminum to Aluminum then I think<br>
MIG would work...but I don't think it's the best for that situation...I<br>
think Mig is used when you are building a Bead on the external surface.<br>
Not trying to get material into a recessed hole. I would think a Sweat<br>
joint like a plumber uses on copper pipe would be a better situation.<br>
The Filler rod or solder or what ever would penetrate the joint down<br>
into the recess and make a mechanical connection down in the hole.<br>
Welding a small bead over the top of the brass nipple with a MIG welder<br>
may hold for a while but I think it would fail in short order...<br>
<br>
Sorry just not enough welding info in my brain.<br>
<br>
<br>
Troy<br>
<br>
<br>
-----Original Message-----<br>
From: nsrca-discussion-bounces@lists.nsrca.org<br>
[mailto:nsrca-discussion-bounces@lists.nsrca.org] On Behalf Of<br>
adriancwong@earthlink.net<br>
Sent: Sunday, June 01, 2008 4:11 PM<br>
To: General pattern discussion<br>
Subject: Re: [NSRCA-discussion] YS-160 round 1...ding, ding<br>
<br>
Oh, no, instead of JB Weld, I mig welded mine, is that OK?<br>
<br>
-----Original Message-----<br>
>From: JShulman <jshulman@cfl.rr.com><br>
>Sent: Jun 1, 2008 6:41 PM<br>
>To: General pattern discussion <nsrca-discussion@lists.nsrca.org><br>
>Subject: Re: [NSRCA-discussion] YS-160 round 1...ding, ding<br>
><br>
>Thanks Troy. Noticed that there is no fuel line keeper, so gotta order <br>
>one of those. Motor still runs great with lots of power. The richer low<br>
<br>
>end solved the higher issue instantly too, thanks again! I'm hoping<br>
that it only moves cause of the lack of the keeper, so we'll get that on<br>
and go from there. Worst case is eventually we'll plug the line right<br>
into the head.<br>
><br>
>Regards,<br>
>Jason<br>
>www.jasonshulman.com<br>
>www.shulmanaviation.com<br>
>www.composite-arf.com<br>
><br>
>-----Original Message-----<br>
>From: nsrca-discussion-bounces@lists.nsrca.org <br>
>[mailto:nsrca-discussion-bounces@lists.nsrca.org]On Behalf Of Troy <br>
>Newman<br>
>Sent: Sunday, June 01, 2008 11:32 AM<br>
>To: General pattern discussion<br>
>Subject: Re: [NSRCA-discussion] YS-160 round 1...ding, ding<br>
><br>
><br>
>Jason,<br>
><br>
>Regardless of the peanut galleries comments here is the skinny.<br>
><br>
>There are two parts...the black plastic check valve....and then the <br>
>Brass Injector that goes into the head. The black plastic part can get <br>
>loose, IF the injector fuel line is allowed to flop around. This is why<br>
<br>
>it has a clip on it. Some folks will remove the clip and the fuel <br>
>tubing is allowed to flop. Also some folks seem to thing they can <br>
>remove the black plastic check valve and re-install it. Nope the <br>
>Plastic goes on one time and to remove it the plastic breaks out and <br>
>the hole is not larger from the barb damage.<br>
><br>
>The idea is to not mess with it.<br>
><br>
><br>
>There have been a few cases of mostly early 160's and mostly a couple
<br>
>years ago when the brass nozzle came out of the head. I know of 3 of <br>
>these and one was in Japan, one in Australia and one in the USA.<br>
>Extremely rare, but clean it up and yes I have been told JB weld will <br>
>fix it. My understanding is that this nozzle is pressed in with some <br>
>kind of adhesive at the factory. So the JB weld is the same kind of <br>
>thing....You don't have that problem.<br>
><br>
>If the engine is allowed to hit the cowl of the model sometime the <br>
>black plastic check valve will get knocked around....If it gets loose, <br>
>just remove it and hook the fuel tubing direct to the injector nozzle. <br>
>It will work fine. The check valve is there for long extended idles, <br>
>and quick throttle ups.....Think F-07 Double Avalanche. The check valve<br>
<br>
>prevents a burp on throttle up.<br>
><br>
><br>
>If you engine is set properly you won't get the burp anyway...but if <br>
>its just a touch lean on the pump...then a tiny air bubble can
migrate<br>
<br>
>back into the injector fuel line. This is because the valve cover is <br>
>the air box...and is under pressure...so the high pressure keeps the <br>
>fuel from coming out of the injector until the valve on the engine <br>
>opens. When the valve opens the pump gives a squirt and the fuel comes<br>
out.....<br>
><br>
>At idle the engine is not using much fuel at all....and the injector <br>
>will leak a little fuel into the valve cover area....If the engine is <br>
>too rich (pump)...this is what causes it to get a rough idle. If the <br>
>pump is too lean then there is not enough fuel in the line and the <br>
>pressure in the line is lower so the air box pressure pushes the fuel <br>
>back in the injector line and right at the very end of the in injector <br>
>line forms a little air bubble.<br>
><br>
><br>
>The black plastic check valve prevents this from happening.<br>
><br>
><br>
>So the long story aside if its flopping around pry it off with a large <br>
>flat blade screw driver, just slowly inch it off...then hook the fuel <br>
>line direct. It will work fine.<br>
><br>
>By the way the new 170's have a different clip on the injector line <br>
>that keeps the fuel tubing from flopping around. This keeps the black <br>
>plastic from turning and getting loose on the injector nozzle.<br>
><br>
><br>
>The peanut gallery can now continue their comments.<br>
><br>
>Thanks<br>
>Troy Newman<br>
><br>
>-----Original Message-----<br>
>From: nsrca-discussion-bounces@lists.nsrca.org<br>
>[mailto:nsrca-discussion-bounces@lists.nsrca.org] On Behalf Of JShulman<br>
>Sent: Sunday, June 01, 2008 8:06 AM<br>
>To: General pattern discussion<br>
>Subject: Re: [NSRCA-discussion] YS-160 round 1...ding, ding<br>
><br>
>Oh yea... the check valve. Regs in front... duh. Where do I plug in the<br>
<br>
>battery???<br>
><br>
>I'll check it and make sure I'm just seeing things. We're still <br>
>learning about the new YS's. Maybe it always swiveled and I just now<br>
noticed it.<br>
><br>
>Regards,<br>
>Jason<br>
>www.jasonshulman.com<br>
>www.shulmanaviation.com<br>
>www.composite-arf.com<br>
><br>
>-----Original Message-----<br>
>From: nsrca-discussion-bounces@lists.nsrca.org<br>
>[mailto:nsrca-discussion-bounces@lists.nsrca.org]On Behalf Of Mike <br>
>Hester<br>
>Sent: Sunday, June 01, 2008 10:35 AM<br>
>To: General pattern discussion<br>
>Subject: Re: [NSRCA-discussion] YS-160 round 1...ding, ding<br>
><br>
><br>
>You mean the check valve? It is press fit. It swivels =)<br>
><br>
>As long as it's not loose, it's fine. Sometimes the fitting comes loose<br>
<br>
>from the head where it's just pressed in. If that's the case, JB weld.<br>
>But the black part just presses on to that.<br>
><br>
>if you mean the part that attaches on to the pushrod tubes, it's just <br>
>plastic and if it's moving excessively, something might have broken.<br>
><br>
>-Mike<br>
><br>
>----- Original Message -----<br>
>From: "JShulman" <jshulman@cfl.rr.com><br>
>To: "NSRCA" <nsrca-discussion@lists.nsrca.org><br>
>Sent: Sunday, June 01, 2008 10:12 AM<br>
>Subject: [NSRCA-discussion] YS-160 round 1...ding, ding<br>
><br>
><br>
>> Sooooooooooo.... how do we tighten up the regulator (black piece at <br>
>> valve<br>
>> cover) on the top of the motor? It seems that this one has come loose<br>
<br>
>> as it will swivel back and forth.<br>
>><br>
>> BTW Chris... I am still flying electric <G><br>
>><br>
>> Regards,<br>
>> Jason<br>
>> www.jasonshulman.com<br>
>> www.shulmanaviation.com<br>
>> www.composite-arf.com<br>
>> No virus found in this outgoing message.<br>
>> Checked by AVG.<br>
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>> 5/31/2008<br>
>> 12:25 PM<br>
>><br>
>><br>
>> _______________________________________________<br>
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>> NSRCA-discussion@lists.nsrca.org<br>
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<p class=MsoNormal style='margin-left:.5in'><span style='font-size:10.0pt;
font-family:"Arial","sans-serif";color:black'>Get trade secrets for amazing
burgers. <a
href="http://food.aol.com/tyler-florence?video=4&?NCID=aolfod00030000000002"
target="_blank"
title="http://food.aol.com/tyler-florence?video=4&?NCID=aolfod00030000000002">Watch
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