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<div>On my soft mounts I have never used aluminum or plastic beams, only maple (which is glued on the hockey puck). <SPAN contentEditable=false style="DISPLAY: inline-block"></SPAN>The wood beams are drilled, tapped and threads treated with thin ca. Have not had a failure in over 5 years now on the first mount I built. Wood is very forgiving in our application and is adequately strong for it.</div>
<div> </div>
<div>MattK</div>
<div> </div>
<br>
-----Original Message-----<br>
From: jpavlick@idseng.com<br>
To: nsrca-discussion@lists.nsrca.org<br>
Sent: Mon, 23 Apr 2007 10:48 PM<br>
Subject: Re: [NSRCA-discussion] Broken Hyde mount beams (my fault)<br>
<br>
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<div class=AOLPlainTextBody id=AOLMsgPart_0_cd6bdd92-2a85-48d6-a3ab-6364a9a1d5c7><PRE><TT>Interesting. Well, call me paranoid but on my engine installations, I use
bolts that are about 1/4" longer than required and I put a nylock on them. I
always check them during routine maintenence and I've never found a loose
one. Of course I don't have any with 1000 flights on them yet! <LOL>
John Pavlick
<A href="http://www.idseng.com/" target=_blank>http://www.idseng.com</A>
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lance Van Nostrand" <<A href='javascript:parent.ComposeTo("patterndude%40tx.rr.com", "");'>patterndude@tx.rr.com</A>>
To: "hydesoftmounts" <<A href='javascript:parent.ComposeTo("hydesoftmounts%40mymailstation.com", "");'>hydesoftmounts@mymailstation.com</A>>; "NSRCA Mailing
List" <<A href='javascript:parent.ComposeTo("nsrca-discussion%40lists.nsrca.org", "");'>nsrca-discussion@lists.nsrca.org</A>>
Sent: Monday, April 23, 2007 8:56 PM
Subject: [NSRCA-discussion] Broken Hyde mount beams (my fault)
> [pattern guys, hope you find this interesting/helpful. I had an aluminum
> beam break on my CR mount. The mount had about 1000 flights. I sent it to
> Hyde Mounts for analysis, not knowing if he'd really be interested. Merle
> responded right away with this. --Lance]
>
> Merle,
> I will gladly pass this on. I'm glad you got to looking at it. It was
> not
> obvious why it would break at that location. I thought those impressions
> were due to over tightness. I never noticed the screws being loose, but
> it
> makes more sense that the impressions were made by a loose engine than a
> tight one. this has now become a much more interesting problem. Your
> recommendation to check and retighten as part of periodic maintenance is a
> good suggestion and this experience proves it.
>
> It is always great to work with you. Some businessmen wouldn't want this
> information distributed, so your commitment to making the best product
> possible and your openness should be shared along with this information.
>
> --Lance
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "hydesoftmounts" <<A href='javascript:parent.ComposeTo("hydesoftmounts%40mymailstation.com", "");'>hydesoftmounts@mymailstation.com</A>>
> To: <<A href='javascript:parent.ComposeTo("patterndude%40comcast.net", "");'>patterndude@comcast.net</A>>
> Sent: Sunday, April 22, 2007 6:38 PM
> Subject: Beams
>
>
>> Hi Lance,
>>
>> Its been a windy weekend here - for sure!
>>
>> I now know why the beam broke. Over the years I have only had a few
>> aluminum beams break that were not crashed or impacted. I have saved the
>> broken beams and never fully understood or conducted an analysis as to
>> why
>> they had broken for only a few and not others. After receiving your
>> broken beam I studied the other few I have saved. In each case the
>> broken
>> beam had a wear impression on it that was located exactly where the rear
>> of the engine lug caused such impression/depression by being permitted to
>> operate with the screw(s) being slightly loose. The wear impression
>> obviously causes "work hardening" of the aluminum and the breaks have
>> always been at the used tapped hole or with some beams at the location of
>> the unused tapped hole located directly under the position where the rear
>> of the engine lug contacts the beam. The beam breakage does not occur at
>> the position of the lightening holes which removed considerably more beam
>> material - breakage
>> at the position of the lightening hole would be most obvious - but this
>> is
>> not the case. "Work hardening" is the only reasonable conclusion.
>>
>> Even nylon composite beams, that have not been crashed or impacted, and
>> that have been properly drilled/prepared, can also break at the position
>> of the "wear impression" that is created if permitted to operate with the
>> screws loose.
>>
>> Over the years I occasionally ran an ad in the K-Factor that advised Hyde
>> Mount users to check the tightness of fasteners/screws. Another problem
>> some have had is that the mount may loosen on the firewall. In all cases
>> the loosening was caused by insufficient tightening and also over time
>> the
>> blind nuts compressed the firewall and permitted the mounts to get loose
>> on the firewall. The key to preventing this is to tighten screws very
>> tight and also ensure "hard points" at all bolting locations.
>>
>> My suggestion is to ensure tightness of fasteners - and use a "T" handle
>> type allen wrench and not be timid when tightening - securing screws VERY
>> tightly, to torque specs, will not damage any part of a Hyde Mount!!!
>>
>> I am not on the internet, nor do I have access to the NSRCA "chat room"
>> site. I would appreciate it if you would pass this information along -
>> others may benefit.
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Merle
>
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>
>
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