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<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Yup, used it b/4 the new formulation and it makes
for a very strong bond, but you only get one chance to get the position right.
Once it's down, it ain't coming up.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>G.</FONT></DIV>
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<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV
style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: black"><B>From:</B>
<A title=k6xyz@sbcglobal.net href="mailto:k6xyz@sbcglobal.net">k6xyz</A>
</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A
title=nsrca-discussion@lists.nsrca.org
href="mailto:nsrca-discussion@lists.nsrca.org">'NSRCA Mailing List'</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Sunday, February 18, 2007 4:12
PM</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Re: [NSRCA-discussion] Monokote
on Monokote</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV class=Section1>
<P class=MsoNormal><FONT face="Comic Sans MS" color=blue size=2><SPAN
style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; COLOR: blue; FONT-FAMILY: 'Comic Sans MS'">I have a
bottle of some kind of liquid to attach MK over MK but I’ve never tried
it.</SPAN></FONT></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><FONT face="Comic Sans MS" color=blue size=2><SPAN
style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; COLOR: blue; FONT-FAMILY: 'Comic Sans MS'">Has anyone
used it and how did you like it?</SPAN></FONT></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><FONT face="Comic Sans MS" color=blue size=2><SPAN
style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; COLOR: blue; FONT-FAMILY: 'Comic Sans MS'"></SPAN></FONT> </P>
<DIV>
<P><FONT face="Times New Roman" color=blue size=2><SPAN
style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; COLOR: blue">Regards<BR><BR>Dave Harmon<BR>NSRCA
586<BR>K6XYZ[at]sbcglobal[dot]net<BR>Sperry, Ok.</SPAN></FONT><FONT
color=blue><SPAN style="COLOR: blue"> </SPAN></FONT></P></DIV>
<P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN-LEFT: 0.5in"><FONT face=Tahoma size=2><SPAN
style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Tahoma">-----Original
Message-----<BR><B><SPAN style="FONT-WEIGHT: bold">From:</SPAN></B> <A
href="mailto:nsrca-discussion-bounces@lists.nsrca.org">nsrca-discussion-bounces@lists.nsrca.org</A>
[mailto:nsrca-discussion-bounces@lists.nsrca.org] <B><SPAN
style="FONT-WEIGHT: bold">On Behalf Of </SPAN></B></SPAN></FONT><FONT
face=Tahoma size=2><SPAN
style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Tahoma">Mark</SPAN></FONT><FONT
face=Tahoma size=2><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Tahoma">
Atwood<BR><B><SPAN style="FONT-WEIGHT: bold">Sent:</SPAN></B> Sunday, February
18, 2007 2:04 PM<BR><B><SPAN style="FONT-WEIGHT: bold">To:</SPAN></B>
</SPAN></FONT><FONT face=Tahoma size=2><SPAN
style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Tahoma">NSRCA Mailing
List</SPAN></FONT><FONT face=Tahoma size=2><SPAN
style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Tahoma"><BR><B><SPAN
style="FONT-WEIGHT: bold">Subject:</SPAN></B> Re: [NSRCA-discussion] Monokote
on Monokote</SPAN></FONT></P>
<P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN-LEFT: 0.5in"><FONT face="Times New Roman"
size=3><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt"></SPAN></FONT> </P>
<P class=MsoNormal
style="MARGIN-BOTTOM: 12pt; MARGIN-LEFT: 0.5in; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0in"><FONT
face=Verdana size=1><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 9pt; FONT-FAMILY: Verdana">Can it
be too cold to build???<BR><BR>Windex is definitely the best of those three.
I’ve had very good results with even semi large pieces (maybe 4”
wide...anything wider and I’ll typically only do one layer). Don’t skimp
on the windex. Both layers of monokote have to be clean...any dust will
show up as a bump under the film. I coat both the piece I’m putting
down, as well as the surface I’m putting it on, with a brush. Spraying
it doesn’t get enough on (unless you go crazy) and just creates a million air
bubbles rather than a smooth film of liquid. I have it sloppy wet...then
slide the pieces into position, and I use a small 4” shower squeegee to
squeeze the windex out. You’ll have zero bubbles...and it will adhere
from suction pretty aggressively. Yes...you’ll have a wet mess so a few
paper towels are in order. Wait at least 24 hours and then use an
iron set just warm enough to anchor Monokote to Monokote without any
shrinking.<BR><BR>If you heat it too soon (same day) there’s enough moisture
still trapped between the two layers that you’ll vaporize it and cause a
bazillion bubbles. <BR><BR>-Mark <BR><BR><BR>On 2/18/07 12:55 PM, "Ed
White" <edvwhite@sbcglobal.net> wrote:</SPAN></FONT></P>
<P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN-LEFT: 0.5in"><FONT face=Verdana size=1><SPAN
style="FONT-SIZE: 9pt; FONT-FAMILY: Verdana">OK, Question for those finding it
too cold to build. Is it possible to put monokote on top of monokote and
get decent results? Tried the poke holes and windex/soap methods and not
impressed with the results. Any other
ideas?<BR><BR>Ed<BR><BR><B><I><SPAN
style="FONT-WEIGHT: bold; FONT-STYLE: italic">ORLANDO FRETS
<ojfrets@earthlink.net></SPAN></I></B> wrote:</SPAN></FONT></P>
<P class=MsoNormal
style="MARGIN-BOTTOM: 12pt; MARGIN-LEFT: 0.5in; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0in"><FONT
face=Verdana size=1><SPAN
style="FONT-SIZE: 9pt; FONT-FAMILY: Verdana"> <BR>Temperature
in low 30's. It's cold! It's also too cold to build, shop is cold. Stay inside
where it's warm.<BR> <BR> <BR> <BR> <BR>ORLANDO
FRETS<BR> <BR>ojfrets@earthlink.net<BR> <BR> </SPAN></FONT></P>
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