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<DIV>One way this could be done is to allow enough annular room around the spinner, completely bypassing the cheeks and chin. You only need about 1/8" annular opening. Just use a smaller spinner than needed and fashion the model nose to recess the spinner slightly into the annulus. </DIV>
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<DIV>I have done that on Temptress (engine powered) with good results.</DIV>
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<DIV>Use the cheeks and chin to route air to the bats.</DIV>
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<DIV>MattK</DIV>
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<DIV>In a message dated 12/19/2006 9:28:10 AM Eastern Standard Time, bob@toprudder.com writes:</DIV>
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<DIV><FONT face=Arial><B><I>Chad Northeast <chad@f3acanada.org></I></B> wrote:</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE class=replbq style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #1010ff 2px solid"><FONT face=Arial>The problem with a lot of composite fuse models (Twister included) is <BR>that the inlets in the chin and cheeks are often right at the rear or <BR>even behind an outrunner.....so ducting toward them is very difficult. <BR>I have to agree that a proper ducting system is crucial for cooling. I <BR>use a very simple short radius 90 bend in a peice of depron that pulls <BR>air in from the chin, I see about a 20C rise in temp without it, other <BR>than that I dont really do anything special. The motor will operate at <BR>up to 170F without complaining so as long as its 20-30F below that all <BR>is good :)<BR><BR>Chad</FONT></BLOCKQUOTE></BLOCKQUOTE></DIV>
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