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<DIV>RCmaster is right really dont need to be pouring castrol oil in there
because it is still bad ball bearing.</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE
style="PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV
style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: black"><B>From:</B>
<A title=Rcmaster199@aol.com
href="mailto:Rcmaster199@aol.com">Rcmaster199@aol.com</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A
title=nsrca-discussion@lists.nsrca.org
href="mailto:nsrca-discussion@lists.nsrca.org">nsrca-discussion@lists.nsrca.org</A>
</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Sunday, July 02, 2006 11:36
PM</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Re: [NSRCA-discussion] Bearing
tip for OS 1.40 RX</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV>
<DIV>Tom, </DIV>
<DIV>Been using Castor Oil as an after run oil and in my fuel (mix of syn
and castor) for a very long time. Works great and I have no issues with
varnish or any adverse affects. Until recently, I stored my stuff in the
garage in hot and humid Florida. In general bearings in my Webras last about
400 runs or so before they need replacement. </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>The only "premature" failure so far has been the 160's
bearing (lasted longer than "50-100" though), and which was primarily
caused by lean idle and mid range settings. There were also other
circumstances that didn't help the bearing (about 8 month idle time between
Florida and New Jersey)</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>I agree it probably isn't as simple as what was stated, but Ed's
point is that OS has a winner with the EFI bearing, so why not use that part
from the start at the factory? Makes sense to me.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>MattK</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>In a message dated 7/2/2006 11:50:32 PM Eastern Standard Time,
Tom.Koenig@actewagl.com.au writes:</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE
style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: blue 2px solid">
<DIV><SPAN class=187332903-03072006><FONT size=2>Hi
Guys,</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=187332903-03072006><FONT size=2>Please dont take this the
wrong way and I dont want to rain on your parade-but...</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=187332903-03072006></SPAN><FONT size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=187332903-03072006><FONT size=2>I dont think it's as simple
as what you say. May I ask why you are pouring castor oil in there? ( OK I
know why..but...)</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=187332903-03072006><FONT size=2>I have seen/experienced
symptoms like you describe-but generally in motors where the set-up
parameters may not be optimal. Ie; pipe too short and prop too big and no
crankcase cooling, wronfg fuel and compression ratio.</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=187332903-03072006></SPAN><FONT size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=187332903-03072006><FONT size=2>No crankcase cooling can
cause the pump to get too hot and boil fuel. This shows up as all sorts of
symptoms and genarally causes havoc. Also, if that engine is getting
too hot whatever castor you have left in there will burn, perhaps causing a
varnish build up and the rest is history.</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=187332903-03072006></SPAN><FONT size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=187332903-03072006><FONT size=2>However all bearings will
wear and the big 2 strokes usually let you know when the idle suddenly turns
to custard. Then you must immediately change bearings.</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2>C<SPAN class=187332903-03072006>heck over all
possibilities-the Japaneses usually know what they are doing ( and if they
dont-they'll never admit anyway) but down here, all the OS's run perfectly
once the set-ups are correct.Having said that -expect to change bearings
every 50-100 flights depending on climatic conditions.</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=187332903-03072006></SPAN><FONT size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=187332903-03072006><FONT size=2>Ofcourse I place a caveat
on this- I use a YS <VBG></FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=187332903-03072006></SPAN><FONT size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=187332903-03072006><FONT size=2>Good luck and best
regards</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=187332903-03072006></SPAN><FONT size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=187332903-03072006><FONT size=2>Tom</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=187332903-03072006></SPAN><FONT size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE dir=ltr style="MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
<DIV class=OutlookMessageHeader dir=ltr align=left><FONT face=Tahoma
size=2>-----Original Message-----<BR><B>From:</B>
nsrca-discussion-bounces@lists.nsrca.org
[mailto:nsrca-discussion-bounces@lists.nsrca.org]<B>On Behalf Of </B>R.
LIPRIE<BR><B>Sent:</B> Monday, 3 July 2006 1:21 PM<BR><B>To:</B> NSRCA
Mailing List<BR><B>Subject:</B> Re: [NSRCA-discussion] Bearing tip for OS
1.40 RX<BR><BR></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2>You no Ed,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2>
You are as right as anyone could be. OS is a very good engine
without that dang piece of junk ball bearing. And I I've made
complaints and I no I'm not the only one that has. But I don't no why they
keep putting that thing in there. They do no what that bearing does. But
like I told them you would get better sells of your engines if you
would put the good ball bearing in there. Because everyone is starting to
find out that the OS ball bearing that is stock is junk. So everyone just
keep complaining.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV align=center><FONT size=2>Matt</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE
style="PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV
style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: black"><B>From:</B>
<A title=mailto:ed_alt@hotmail.com href="mailto:ed_alt@hotmail.com">Ed
Alt</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A
title=mailto:nsrca-discussion@lists.nsrca.org
href="mailto:nsrca-discussion@lists.nsrca.org">NSRCA Mailing List</A>
</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Sunday, July 02, 2006 10:09
PM</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> [NSRCA-discussion] Bearing
tip for OS 1.40 RX</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2><BR></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2>This is an FYI for anyone with a new OS 1.40 RX.
Thinking about running with the stock bearing for even a short
time? Think again. I was anxious to get a new model flying
for this weekend and decided not to take the time to first swap out the
junk stock bearing in a new RX. I figured if I dosed it with
after run oil after every flight I could get through he weekend and then
do the mandatory swap to a sealed bearing. Here's the full
history. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2>Friday, June 30 I did two break in runs on the
ground. Didn't do any after run between these two runs. They
were only 30 minutes apart. What could happen?. Another 30 minutes
after the 2nd break in run, did a short flight. Had a transmitter
trim lever problem, landed quickly, de-fueled, ran it dry, literally ran
nearly 20 squirts of Amsoil Metal Protector through it. Doused
it. Got it home, added a full carb barrel of castor oil for good
measure and worked it through. Yeah, that ought to do it.
Dehumidifier running all day, all night in the basement...</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2>Saturday, July 1 dawns. Bearings still feel
OK. Head to the field. Fly. Work a carb barrel of
castor through it. Repeat for 3 more flights. Note that the
bearing is starting to feel rough already. Take it home, swap for
a sealed bearing. Note that the bearing is rusted already and
that the crankshaft has light scoring from the inner race turning on
it. 7 runs, handled like a newborn baby.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2>IMO, it is a disgrace that OS continues to produce
this engine with a trash bearing that can't stand up to even the most
careful use for more than a day. They KNOW what should be in
there, since they do it for the EFI version. Lesson learned, if I
ever do use another new RX, I'll never again make the mistake of doing
even a single run without first swapping the main bearing. It's
not like the sealed bearing is all that expensive either. I get
them locally for a little over $11 each and they work great. You
don't even have to waste money on an overpriced Boca or EFI verson from
Tower.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2>Ed</FONT></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BLOCKQUOTE></BLOCKQUOTE></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>
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