[NSRCA-discussion] thinning epoxy, how?
Gray E Fowler
gfowler at raytheon.com
Mon Mar 16 07:44:52 AKDT 2009
Jim
Polyesters will not cure when in contact with oxygen, leaving a sticky
surface. If your surface is not sticky after applying-curing polyester
then you are using a "true" polyester finishing resin, which is fine, BUT
look out because to stop the oxygen inhibition polyester "finishing"
resins add 5% wax, which floats to the surface and blocks the oxygen. I
say lookout, because any future bonding to this area will be extremely
poor. If you are not bonding to an area saturated with this resin you are
fine.
K&B paint was fine, just a regular epoxy cured with a polyamide, meaning
the mixture needs to be "inducted" prior to use, that is mixed up and then
sits in a mass for a t least 15 minutes (read the instructions) or the
polyimide will slightly separate giving you a sticky surface.
Unfamiliar Formula U, but Concept clear works very well.
I always clear coat with Concept 2021..easy, lightweight and more durable.
My entire engine area is sealed with Concept clear or laminating epoxy.
Gray Fowler
Senior Principal Chemical Engineer
Radomes and Specialty Apertures
Technical Staff Composites Engineering
Raytheon
"J N Hiller" <jnhiller at earthlink.net>
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03/16/2009 10:16 AM
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Re: [NSRCA-discussion] thinning epoxy, how?
Thank you for the very informative information. I have never used epoxy
for fuel proofing. I've used Polyester finishing resin and K&B epoxy paint
until I ran out and recently Formula-U Polyurethane paint. What are your
thoughts on these alternate materials?
I find fuel proof compromising gouges are more visible using colored paint
rather than a clear coating.
Jim Hiller
-----Original Message-----
From: nsrca-discussion-bounces at lists.nsrca.org
[mailto:nsrca-discussion-bounces at lists.nsrca.org]On Behalf Of Gray E
Fowler
Sent: Monday, March 16, 2009 6:24 AM
To: General pattern discussion
Subject: Re: [NSRCA-discussion] thinning epoxy, how?
Fast curing epoxy adhesives such as the 30 minute are a bad initial
choice. I realize that thousands have used it in these applications, but
that still does not make it a good choice. The non reactive components in
the fast epoxy plasticize with age and methanol and nitro will seriously
degrade the stuff. Using one of the thinner slower curing laminating
resins will require less solvent, if any and provide a much longer lasting
barrier. Any solvent added to an epoxy needs to evaporate completely or
you will created a problem. Denatured alcohol (ethanol) evaporates very
slowly. Cutting a fast cure epoxy with a slow evaporating solvent is a
recipe for trapping alot of solvent, making the chemical resistant even
worse. Methanol evaporates much faster and epoxy is much more soluable in
methanol. Be very careful using ketone solvents (acetone, MEK) or
aromatics (Toluene, Xylene) because many kit manufacturers use styrofoam
as a core material that will be destroyed in seconds with all solvents
except the alcohols.
SO!
1. Use a thin slower cure laminating resin
2. Use Acetone, MEK or Laquer thinner
3. NO puddles, super thin coat
4. Alcohols if you have a styrofoam core
5. rule #3 again
6. If you only need the plane to last 1 year, then use 15 minute epoxy and
do not worry..it will last 1 year or so.
Gray Fowler
Senior Principal Chemical Engineer
Radomes and Specialty Apertures
Technical Staff Composites Engineering
Raytheon
"J Shu" <jshulman at cfl.rr.com>
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03/15/2009 02:15 AM
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[NSRCA-discussion] thinning epoxy, how?
I want to add another layer of sealer to the firewall and tunnel on my
plane... what's the best way to do it with epoxy? I've got 30
minute but not sure how to thin it to seal it.
Regards,
Jason
www.shulmanaviation.com
www.composite-arf.com
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