[NSRCA-discussion] JR question 9303 kill switch
Troy Newman
troy at troynewman.net
Sat Aug 29 19:22:52 AKDT 2009
Ed,
The speed controller still has its arming process. My experience and it's not as vast as some with the electric is that the throttle must be down low as in at idle or below to arm the controller and get all the little beeps that are required.
I was thinking more in terms of a landing and carrying back to the pits with the battery still plugged in...not so much on the initial power up. You have your controller and its musical interpretation to tell you it is armed. With this kill switch...you are driving the controller to below idle position so the controller will still arm with the musical beeps, but when you advance the power its dead and will not take power...until maybe up near the full throttle position when your -125% can't overcome the high side of throttle. I still say that you should always have a holder on your model even with electrics. We had a nasty issue at the D7 Champs last year regarding this issue. Somebody could have been injured. Not because of electric but because we have trained ourselves over the years that prop no turn is safe. The problem is electric can start on its own. A pilot didn't think when he didn't have the pin on 72mhz and turned on his RX....The guys flying on his channel was flying the same brand radio, and same freq and the model armed when the guys flying was at idle and throttled up when the flying pilot throttled up as well. The problem was nobody was holding the plane...and it was "in the ready box. Nobody hurt but the plane that "taxied" unmanned came around and hit another model. If the guy that was getting ready to start his plane had been on his knees in front of it ...there would have been a whole lot different.
So be careful...Mark Atwood had an issue a couple weeks ago. I know I fly alone a bunch...same issues. Get a helper to hold the plane. Or get some sort of a stand like I have that holes the plane and keeps it from coming at me. Tony Frakowiak lost a finger flying alone and doing the same stuff. Props are dangerous things. Electric is easy and can lull you into poor safety practices. I cut my arm up pretty good last fall with a foamy. Again poor safety practices.
I have a Eflite 25 sized AT-6 and Beaver along with the T-28 Trojan from Park zone, and several other smaller electrics I have been flying lately. I have this kill setup on those models and I'm flying off the X9303.....I use the MIX switch so I can look at the switch to tell its position.
Troy
From: nsrca-discussion-bounces at lists.nsrca.org [mailto:nsrca-discussion-bounces at lists.nsrca.org] On Behalf Of Ed Alt
Sent: Saturday, August 29, 2009 3:20 PM
To: General pattern discussion
Subject: Re: [NSRCA-discussion] JR question 9303 kill switch
Troy:
This is pretty slick. Just one comment though, re. the toggle setup for use on an electric. How do you know where you've left it? In other words, suppose you're fiddling around with the radio for some other reason and you simply lose track of the state of the kill button. Now you put a battery in and since you can't check the state of a toggle kill switch, you may assume it's in the kill state when it's not. Maybe I'm missing something, but it seems like this has some risk built into it.
Ed
----- Original Message -----
From: Troy Newman <mailto:troy at troynewman.net>
To: General pattern discussion <mailto:nsrca-discussion at lists.nsrca.org>
Sent: Saturday, August 29, 2009 4:41 PM
Subject: Re: [NSRCA-discussion] JR question 9303 kill switch
I just set up this mix....and found out that the button is not available as a switch to select to activate the mix. The choices for the mix activation are the MIX, AIL, ELE, RUD switches. Those are the d/r switches. I didn't realize that until I started to set it up. There is an easy way to skin the cat, and Allan Worrest did it for us. I checked his method out and it works like a charm. I have my 12X and 10X time in the air and programming than the 9303. The logic is all pretty much similar just takes a little fooling of the TX to get the task done on the 9303 compared to the 12X. Thanks Allan. I pride myself on knowing how to program these radios and helping guys out with it. This time I was combining programming between the different radios in my head before I actually went and programmed it.
So since you can mix any channel to any channel we need to do what is described below. Use a spare channel and have it controlled by the button. In the case below like Allan describes he used AUX 4. This channel is normally controlled by the rudd D/R switch. In the Device Sel menu you just re-assign the channel to the button. Now the button is AUX4.
You could choose any of the spare channels and assign them to the button.
Then create your mix. I will amend what Allan says below. I prefer to not over drive the throttle servo and make it bind. So you should not use 100% for the mix value. I would suggest say starting with 30-40% and see how far the servo travels. If it kills you are done. If its binding and over driving the servo then reduce the mix value until binding stops.
The "THRO STK" part of what is described below is to only have the kill function work below a certain throttle stick position. Meaning it adds another switch on the throttle stick to arm or dis-arm the kill switch. If you set the "thro-STK" value to say 25% then below ¼ throttle the button will be enabled. If its set to 100% then below full throttle the button will be enabled. I would suggest like Allan that you choose a number down low below say 25 so that the button only activates at low throttle settings.
The idea behind this mix is to take the current throttle position and add travel to it. If you choose a 40% mix you are taking the current throttle position say 1/4throttle 25% stick. This would be about L-75% on the output to the servo. So you are driving the servo to L-75% PLUS another 40% so the end result is the servo drives to L-115% or to its kill position.
It would act the exact same as setting your travel adjust at 115%. Except when you let go of the button the Travel Adjust is back to the normal values. If you were at full idle stick and your travel adjust was 100% on the Low side L-100 it would drive the servo to 140%.
If you are flying electrics I would suggest the toggle option. This way the controller is getting full kill signal after you let go of the button. To raise the throttle output position you then hit the button again and the throttle comes back up. In this case I would set the mix as Butn to throttle and set the values to 125% as the speed controller doesn't have a mechanical linkage to over drive. This would be a good safety to not accidently bump the stick and turn on the motor.
I always use the mix switch for my Kill....this way I can flip it and the kill stays on all the time until I flip it back. Also I can physically look at the radio and tell if my kill is "ON" or off.
I know the in the 12X the buttons, aux trim tabs can be used as switches for the mixing. The 9303 doesn't offer this capability.
Thanks again Allan, I appreciate the help brother. I guess my brain was a little clouded with work, and the new baby. Alexander is smiling and giggling now 9 weeks today. It's pretty cool. Too bad I'm not on his radar yet. Mama has the food, I'm just some bozo that stumbles around trying to change him. He knows I'm not an expert at it....
Hope this helps guys and explains what is going on.
Troy Newman
From: nsrca-discussion-bounces at lists.nsrca.org [mailto:nsrca-discussion-bounces at lists.nsrca.org] On Behalf Of AWorrest at aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, August 25, 2009 9:29 AM
To: nsrca-discussion at lists.nsrca.org
Subject: Re: [NSRCA-discussion] JR question
For the 9303, to make the trainer button a momentary kill switch, first go to the DeviceSEL menu and set AUX4 to be activated by BUTN. Leave AUX4 output active.
In a linear program mix menu, mix AUX4 into THRO. In Pos1 lower position, set the value to +100%. Set the THRO STK to some low value like 12 so the kill will only take place when the throttle stick is in the idle position.
The only problems that some people may have is with the timer. If you use the trainer button to start the timer, you will momentarily cause the engine to go low. Most engines will not stop with a quick blip on the button that is needed to start the timer. But if this is a problem, use the timer switch on the front panel. The other thing is that killing the engine will stop the timer. I find this to be a benefit.
Allan
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