[NSRCA-discussion] YS-160 round 1...ding, ding

Ken Thompson KTHOMPSON56 at satx.rr.com
Mon Jun 2 02:46:36 AKDT 2008


Yep ;-)


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Ed Miller" <edbon85 at tds.net>
To: "General pattern discussion" <nsrca-discussion at lists.nsrca.org>
Sent: Monday, June 02, 2008 5:24 AM
Subject: Re: [NSRCA-discussion] YS-160 round 1...ding, ding


> You mean the original comment about Mig welding the injector was "Peanut
> Gallery" giving it back to Troy ??
> Ed M.
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Ken Thompson" <KTHOMPSON56@ satx.rr.com>
> To: "General pattern discussion" <nsrca-discussion at lists.nsrca.org>
> Sent: Sunday, June 01, 2008 8:17 PM
> Subject: Re: [NSRCA-discussion] YS-160 round 1...ding, ding
>
>
> Actually if it was aluminum to aluminum, TIG, not MIG, would 
> work...there's
> no weld that I'm aware of that will attach brass to aluminum...
>
> Just so it is known, I believe the original comment about MIG welding was 
> in
> jest ;-)
>  ----- Original Message ----- 
>  From: THERUPMAN at aol.com
>  To: nsrca-discussion at lists.nsrca.org
>  Sent: Sunday, June 01, 2008 7:02 PM
>  Subject: Re: [NSRCA-discussion] YS-160 round 1...ding, ding
>
>
>  Troy and all,
>  That's fantastic information. If only I knew what MIG welding is.
>  BR in Nashville
>
>  In a message dated 6/1/2008 6:47:41 P.M. Central Daylight Time,
> troy at troynewman.net writes:
>    Adrian,
>
>    Mig Welding might work...I don't know...I always thought that MIG
>    welding was for aluminum and Steel...like thin sheets or
>    tubing...Stainless steel sinks and the likes are MIG welded. While I
>    think MIG welding would work on a  Header if you were good enough to do
>    it, I don't think MIG is what you would use to put the Brass insert 
> back
>    into an Aluminum casting. The only thing you might be able to do is
>    create a small mechanical stop as you melted the MIG "wire" over the 
> top
>    of the brass fitting. The weld would not penetrate down into the joint
>    between the brass Injector Tube and the Aluminum head. Also MIG is very
>    critical on having the surfaces clean and dry. It if difficult to get
>    down in a hole that is about 1/8" diameter and clean it.
>
>    I know there are some welder types out there. I'm not a smart guy on
>    welding. I just know that there are different processes needed when the
>    metals are different types. If it was Aluminum to Aluminum then I think
>    MIG would work...but I don't think it's the best for that situation...I
>    think Mig is used when you are building a Bead on the external surface.
>    Not trying to get material into a recessed hole. I would think a Sweat
>    joint like a plumber uses  on copper pipe would be a better situation.
>    The Filler rod or solder or what ever would penetrate the joint down
>    into the recess and make a mechanical connection down in the hole.
>    Welding a small bead over the top of the brass nipple with a  MIG 
> welder
>    may hold for a while but I think it would fail in short order...
>
>    Sorry just not enough welding info in my brain.
>
>
>    Troy
>
>
>    -----Original Message-----
>    From: nsrca-discussion-bounces at lists.nsrca.org
>    [mailto:nsrca-discussion-bounces at lists.nsrca.org] On Behalf Of
>    adriancwong at earthlink.net
>    Sent: Sunday, June 01, 2008 4:11 PM
>    To: General pattern discussion
>    Subject: Re: [NSRCA-discussion] YS-160 round 1...ding, ding
>
>    Oh, no, instead of JB Weld, I mig welded mine, is that OK?
>
>    -----Original Message-----
>    >From: JShulman <jshulman at cfl.rr.com>
>    >Sent: Jun 1, 2008 6:41 PM
>    >To: General pattern discussion <nsrca-discussion at lists.nsrca.org>
>    >Subject: Re: [NSRCA-discussion] YS-160 round 1...ding, ding
>    >
>    >Thanks Troy. Noticed that there is no fuel line keeper, so gotta order
>    >one of those. Motor still runs great with lots of power. The richer 
> low
>
>    >end solved the higher issue instantly too, thanks again! I'm hoping
>    that it only moves cause of the lack of the keeper, so we'll get that 
> on
>    and go from there. Worst case is eventually we'll plug the line right
>    into the head.
>    >
>    >Regards,
>    >Jason
>    >www.jasonshulman.com
>    >www.shulmanaviation.com
>    >www.composite-arf.com
>    >
>    >-----Original Message-----
>    >From: nsrca-discussion-bounces at lists.nsrca.org
>    >[mailto:nsrca-discussion-bounces at lists.nsrca.org]On Behalf Of Troy
>    >Newman
>    >Sent: Sunday, June 01, 2008 11:32 AM
>    >To: General pattern discussion
>    >Subject: Re: [NSRCA-discussion] YS-160 round 1...ding, ding
>    >
>    >
>    >Jason,
>    >
>    >Regardless of the peanut galleries comments here is the skinny.
>    >
>    >There are two parts...the black plastic check valve....and then the
>    >Brass Injector that goes into the head. The black plastic part can get
>    >loose, IF the injector fuel line is allowed to flop around. This is 
> why
>
>    >it has a clip on it. Some folks will remove the clip and the fuel
>    >tubing is allowed to flop. Also some folks seem to thing they can
>    >remove the black plastic check valve and re-install it. Nope the
>    >Plastic goes on one time and to remove it the plastic breaks out and
>    >the hole is not larger from the barb damage.
>    >
>    >The idea is to not mess with it.
>    >
>    >
>    >There have been a  few cases of mostly early 160's and mostly a couple
>    >years ago when the brass nozzle came out of the head. I know of 3 of
>    >these and one was in Japan, one in Australia and one in the USA.
>    >Extremely rare, but clean it up and yes I have been told JB weld will
>    >fix it. My understanding is that this nozzle is pressed in with some
>    >kind of adhesive at the factory. So the JB weld is the same kind of
>    >thing....You don't have that problem.
>    >
>    >If the engine is allowed to hit the cowl of the model sometime the
>    >black plastic check valve will get knocked around....If it gets loose,
>    >just remove it and hook the fuel tubing direct to the injector nozzle.
>    >It will work fine. The check valve is there for long extended idles,
>    >and quick throttle ups.....Think F-07 Double Avalanche. The check 
> valve
>
>    >prevents a burp on throttle up.
>    >
>    >
>    >If you engine is set properly you won't get the burp anyway...but if
>    >its just a  touch lean on the pump...then a tiny air bubble can 
> migrate
>
>    >back into the injector fuel line. This is because the valve cover is
>    >the air box...and is under pressure...so the high pressure keeps the
>    >fuel from coming out of the injector until the valve on the engine
>    >opens. When the valve opens the pump gives a squirt and the fuel comes
>    out.....
>    >
>    >At idle the engine is not using much fuel at all....and the injector
>    >will leak a little fuel into the valve cover area....If the engine is
>    >too rich (pump)...this is what causes it to get a rough idle. If the
>    >pump is too lean then there is not enough fuel in the line and the
>    >pressure in the line is lower so the air box pressure pushes the fuel
>    >back in the injector line and right at the very end of the in injector
>    >line forms a little air bubble.
>    >
>    >
>    >The black plastic check valve prevents this from happening.
>    >
>    >
>    >So the long story aside if its flopping around pry it off with a large
>    >flat blade screw driver, just slowly inch it off...then hook the fuel
>    >line direct. It will work fine.
>    >
>    >By the way the new 170's have a different clip on the injector line
>    >that keeps the fuel tubing from flopping around. This keeps the black
>    >plastic from turning and getting loose on the injector nozzle.
>    >
>    >
>    >The peanut gallery can now continue their comments.
>    >
>    >Thanks
>    >Troy Newman
>    >
>    >-----Original Message-----
>    >From: nsrca-discussion-bounces at lists.nsrca.org
>    >[mailto:nsrca-discussion-bounces at lists.nsrca.org] On Behalf Of 
> JShulman
>    >Sent: Sunday, June 01, 2008 8:06 AM
>    >To: General pattern discussion
>    >Subject: Re: [NSRCA-discussion] YS-160 round 1...ding, ding
>    >
>    >Oh yea... the check valve. Regs in front... duh. Where do I plug in 
> the
>
>    >battery???
>    >
>    >I'll check it and make sure I'm just seeing things. We're still
>    >learning about the new YS's. Maybe it always swiveled and I just now
>    noticed it.
>    >
>    >Regards,
>    >Jason
>    >www.jasonshulman.com
>    >www.shulmanaviation.com
>    >www.composite-arf.com
>    >
>    >-----Original Message-----
>    >From: nsrca-discussion-bounces at lists.nsrca.org
>    >[mailto:nsrca-discussion-bounces at lists.nsrca.org]On Behalf Of Mike
>    >Hester
>    >Sent: Sunday, June 01, 2008 10:35 AM
>    >To: General pattern discussion
>    >Subject: Re: [NSRCA-discussion] YS-160 round 1...ding, ding
>    >
>    >
>    >You mean the check valve? It is press fit. It swivels =)
>    >
>    >As long as it's not loose, it's fine. Sometimes the fitting comes 
> loose
>
>    >from the head where it's just pressed in. If that's the case, JB weld.
>    >But the black part just presses on to that.
>    >
>    >if you mean the part that attaches on to the pushrod tubes, it's just
>    >plastic and if it's moving excessively, something might have broken.
>    >
>    >-Mike
>    >
>    >----- Original Message -----
>    >From: "JShulman" <jshulman at cfl.rr.com>
>    >To: "NSRCA" <nsrca-discussion at lists.nsrca.org>
>    >Sent: Sunday, June 01, 2008 10:12 AM
>    >Subject: [NSRCA-discussion] YS-160 round 1...ding, ding
>    >
>    >
>    >> Sooooooooooo.... how do we tighten up the regulator (black piece at
>    >> valve
>    >> cover) on the top of the motor? It seems that this one has come 
> loose
>
>    >> as it will swivel back and forth.
>    >>
>    >> BTW Chris... I am still flying electric <G>
>    >>
>    >> Regards,
>    >> Jason
>    >> www.jasonshulman.com
>    >> www.shulmanaviation.com
>    >> www.composite-arf.com
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