[NSRCA-discussion] YS-160 round 1...ding, ding

adriancwong at earthlink.net adriancwong at earthlink.net
Sun Jun 1 18:16:41 AKDT 2008


Oh well, since both mig and tig doesn't work, I'll use my old trusty ACME brand sledgehammer then ... 

-----Original Message-----
>From: Derek Koopowitz <derekkoopowitz at gmail.com>
>Sent: Jun 1, 2008 9:50 PM
>To: homeremodeling2003 at yahoo.com, 'General pattern discussion' <nsrca-discussion at lists.nsrca.org>
>Subject: Re: [NSRCA-discussion] YS-160 round 1...ding, ding
>
>Very true... Adrian wouldn't know a MIG weld from an F86 weld...
>
>  _____  
>
>From: nsrca-discussion-bounces at lists.nsrca.org
>[mailto:nsrca-discussion-bounces at lists.nsrca.org] On Behalf Of krishlan
>fitzsimmons
>Sent: Sunday, June 01, 2008 5:26 PM
>To: General pattern discussion
>Subject: Re: [NSRCA-discussion] YS-160 round 1...ding, ding
>
>
>
>Knowing Adrian, he was kidding..
>
>
>
>Chris 
> 
> 
> 
>
>
>--- On Sun, 6/1/08, Ken Thompson <KTHOMPSON56 at satx.rr.com> wrote:
>
>
>From: Ken Thompson <KTHOMPSON56 at satx.rr.com>
>Subject: Re: [NSRCA-discussion] YS-160 round 1...ding, ding
>To: "General pattern discussion" <nsrca-discussion at lists.nsrca.org>
>Date: Sunday, June 1, 2008, 5:17 PM
>
>
>Actually if it was aluminum to aluminum, TIG, not MIG, would work...there's
>no weld that I'm aware of that will attach brass to aluminum...
> 
>Just so it is known, I believe the original comment about MIG welding was in
>jest ;-)
>
>----- Original Message ----- 
>From: THERUPMAN at aol.com 
>To: nsrca-discussion at lists.nsrca.org 
>Sent: Sunday, June 01, 2008 7:02 PM
>Subject: Re: [NSRCA-discussion] YS-160 round 1...ding, ding
>
>
>Troy and all,
>That's fantastic information. If only I knew what MIG welding is.
>BR in Nashville
> 
>In a message dated 6/1/2008 6:47:41 P.M. Central Daylight Time,
>troy at troynewman.net writes:
>
>Adrian,
>
>Mig Welding might work...I don't know...I always thought that MIG
>welding was for aluminum and Steel...like thin sheets or
>tubing...Stainless steel sinks and the likes are MIG welded. While I
>think MIG welding would work on a  Header if you were good enough to do
>it, I don't think MIG is what you would use to put the Brass insert back
>into an Aluminum casting. The only thing you might be able to do is
>create a small mechanical stop as you melted the MIG "wire" over the top
>of the brass fitting. The weld would not penetrate down into the joint
>between the brass Injector Tube and the Aluminum head. Also MIG is very
>critical on having the surfaces clean and dry. It if difficult to get
>down in a hole that is about 1/8" diameter and clean it.
>
>I know there are some welder types out there. I'm not a smart guy on
>welding. I just know that there are different processes needed when the
>metals are different types. If it was Aluminum to Aluminum then I think
>MIG would work...but I don't think it's the best for that situation...I
>think Mig is used when you are building a Bead on the external surface.
>Not trying to get material into a recessed hole. I would think a Sweat
>joint like a plumber uses  on copper pipe would be a better situation.
>The Filler rod or solder or what ever would penetrate the joint down
>into the recess and make a mechanical connection down in the hole.
>Welding a small bead over the top of the brass nipple with a  MIG welder
>may hold for a while but I think it would fail in short order...
>
>Sorry just not enough welding info in my brain.
>
>
>Troy
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: nsrca-discussion-bounces at lists.nsrca.org
>[mailto:nsrca-discussion-bounces at lists.nsrca.org] On Behalf Of
>adriancwong at earthlink.net
>Sent: Sunday, June 01, 2008 4:11 PM
>To: General pattern discussion
>Subject: Re: [NSRCA-discussion] YS-160 round 1...ding, ding
>
>Oh, no, instead of JB Weld, I mig welded mine, is that OK?
>
>-----Original Message-----
>>From: JShulman <jshulman at cfl.rr.com>
>>Sent: Jun 1, 2008 6:41 PM
>>To: General pattern discussion <nsrca-discussion at lists.nsrca.org>
>>Subject: Re: [NSRCA-discussion] YS-160 round 1...ding, ding
>>
>>Thanks Troy. Noticed that there is no fuel line keeper, so gotta order 
>>one of those. Motor still runs great with lots of power. The richer low
>
>>end solved the higher issue instantly too, thanks again! I'm hoping
>that it only moves cause of the lack of the keeper, so we'll get that on
>and go from there. Worst case is eventually we'll plug the line right
>into the head.
>>
>>Regards,
>>Jason
>>www.jasonshulman.com
>>www.shulmanaviation.com
>>www.composite-arf.com
>>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: nsrca-discussion-bounces at lists.nsrca.org 
>>[mailto:nsrca-discussion-bounces at lists.nsrca.org]On Behalf Of Troy 
>>Newman
>>Sent: Sunday, June 01, 2008 11:32 AM
>>To: General pattern discussion
>>Subject: Re: [NSRCA-discussion] YS-160 round 1...ding, ding
>>
>>
>>Jason,
>>
>>Regardless of the peanut galleries comments here is the skinny.
>>
>>There are two parts...the black plastic check valve....and then the 
>>Brass Injector that goes into the head. The black plastic part can get 
>>loose, IF the injector fuel line is allowed to flop around. This is why
>
>>it has a clip on it. Some folks will remove the clip and the fuel 
>>tubing is allowed to flop. Also some folks seem to thing they can 
>>remove the black plastic check valve and re-install it. Nope the 
>>Plastic goes on one time and to remove it the plastic breaks out and 
>>the hole is not larger from the barb damage.
>>
>>The idea is to not mess with it.
>>
>>
>>There have been a  few cases of mostly early 160's and mostly a couple 
>>years ago when the brass nozzle came out of the head. I know of 3 of 
>>these and one was in Japan, one in Australia and one in the USA.
>>Extremely rare, but clean it up and yes I have been told JB weld will 
>>fix it. My understanding is that this nozzle is pressed in with some 
>>kind of adhesive at the factory. So the JB weld is the same kind of 
>>thing....You don't have that problem.
>>
>>If the engine is allowed to hit the cowl of the model sometime the 
>>black plastic check valve will get knocked around....If it gets loose, 
>>just remove it and hook the fuel tubing direct to the injector nozzle. 
>>It will work fine. The check valve is there for long extended idles, 
>>and quick throttle ups.....Think F-07 Double Avalanche. The check valve
>
>>prevents a burp on throttle up.
>>
>>
>>If you engine is set properly you won't get the burp anyway...but if 
>>its just a  touch lean on the pump...then a tiny air bubble can migrate
>
>>back into the injector fuel line. This is because the valve cover is 
>>the air box...and is under pressure...so the high pressure keeps the 
>>fuel from coming out of the injector until the valve on the engine 
>>opens. When the valve opens the pump gives a squirt and the fuel comes
>out.....
>>
>>At idle the engine is not using much fuel at all....and the injector 
>>will leak a little fuel into the valve cover area....If the engine is 
>>too rich (pump)...this is what causes it to get a rough idle. If the 
>>pump is too lean then there is not enough fuel in the line and the 
>>pressure in the line is lower so the air box pressure pushes the fuel 
>>back in the injector line and right at the very end of the in injector 
>>line forms a little air bubble.
>>
>>
>>The black plastic check valve prevents this from happening.
>>
>>
>>So the long story aside if its flopping around pry it off with a large 
>>flat blade screw driver, just slowly inch it off...then hook the fuel 
>>line direct. It will work fine.
>>
>>By the way the new 170's have a different clip on the injector line 
>>that keeps the fuel tubing from flopping around. This keeps the black 
>>plastic from turning and getting loose on the injector nozzle.
>>
>>
>>The peanut gallery can now continue their comments.
>>
>>Thanks
>>Troy Newman
>>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: nsrca-discussion-bounces at lists.nsrca.org
>>[mailto:nsrca-discussion-bounces at lists.nsrca.org] On Behalf Of JShulman
>>Sent: Sunday, June 01, 2008 8:06 AM
>>To: General pattern discussion
>>Subject: Re: [NSRCA-discussion] YS-160 round 1...ding, ding
>>
>>Oh yea... the check valve. Regs in front... duh. Where do I plug in the
>
>>battery???
>>
>>I'll check it and make sure I'm just seeing things. We're still 
>>learning about the new YS's. Maybe it always swiveled and I just now
>noticed it.
>>
>>Regards,
>>Jason
>>www.jasonshulman.com
>>www.shulmanaviation.com
>>www.composite-arf.com
>>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: nsrca-discussion-bounces at lists.nsrca.org
>>[mailto:nsrca-discussion-bounces at lists.nsrca.org]On Behalf Of Mike 
>>Hester
>>Sent: Sunday, June 01, 2008 10:35 AM
>>To: General pattern discussion
>>Subject: Re: [NSRCA-discussion] YS-160 round 1...ding, ding
>>
>>
>>You mean the check valve? It is press fit. It swivels =)
>>
>>As long as it's not loose, it's fine. Sometimes the fitting comes loose
>
>>from the head where it's just pressed in. If that's the case, JB weld.
>>But the black part just presses on to that.
>>
>>if you mean the part that attaches on to the pushrod tubes, it's just 
>>plastic and if it's moving excessively, something might have broken.
>>
>>-Mike
>>
>>----- Original Message -----
>>From: "JShulman" <jshulman at cfl.rr.com>
>>To: "NSRCA" <nsrca-discussion at lists.nsrca.org>
>>Sent: Sunday, June 01, 2008 10:12 AM
>>Subject: [NSRCA-discussion] YS-160 round 1...ding, ding
>>
>>
>>> Sooooooooooo.... how do we tighten up the regulator (black piece at 
>>> valve
>>> cover) on the top of the motor? It seems that this one has come loose
>
>>> as it will swivel back and forth.
>>>
>>> BTW Chris... I am still flying electric <G>
>>>
>>> Regards,
>>> Jason
>>> www.jasonshulman.com
>>> www.shulmanaviation.com
>>> www.composite-arf.com
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